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Discussion Starter #1
Already had an hour meter on my front-deck mower and its broke, and with having a 90's ONAN engine, or for that matter any brand/year engine no matter the mower, couldn't tell what the RPMs are from idle to deck engagement high RPMs.

Installed a cheap, $11.38 Runleader self powered(replaceable battery) all-n-one type meter to help from tuneups, to time to change the oil/grease all the chassis points and my mower has many. Like about 25 areas to grease.

Hope what I have will paste here for those who've contemplated getting and putting a multi-reader onto their mowers. It was very easy to install. How I mounted my meter took longer to make and install than in setting up the meter to properly readout RPMs according to my engine setup(2-cylinder/2-stroke, because the ONAN coil fires both plugs on each other's firing stroke). I'm now happy to know my engine is running between what the factory calls the RPM's to be, or at least close enough to not over rev or under idle.

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/31JaMojalfL.jpg

It worked, but didn't give me the picture or info readout I copied, but at least you can see what I installed.

Del
 

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Thanks Steve. That's what I got and was trying to post. It's a slick setup.

When manually turned off (to save battery life), then upon immediate start, meter will automatically go to RPM readout. When done and turn engine off, meter will automatically tell you how many hours you have. Service readout is on another area of meter I haven't gotten to yet to set up.

I started/killed my engine at least 3-4 times and ran meter through the rpm scale and meter did exactly as it should and had very close readings each time, while the hour usage meter ran up to next 1/10 time. Now, as to how close my engine rpm truly is to factory without another meter(non-contact rpm meter) I can't say, but so far I'm pleased.



Del
 

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Thanks Steve. That's what I got and was trying to post. It's a slick setup.

When manually turned off (to save battery life), then upon immediate start, meter will automatically go to RPM readout. When done and turn engine off, meter will automatically tell you how many hours you have. Service readout is on another area of meter I haven't gotten to yet to set up.

I started/killed my engine at least 3-4 times and ran meter through the rpm scale and meter did exactly as it should and had very close readings each time, while the hour usage meter ran up to next 1/10 time. Now, as to how close my engine rpm truly is to factory without another meter(non-contact rpm meter) I can't say, but so far I'm pleased.



Del
I figured that was the one you got. Reading reviews on Amazon it looks like the best bang for your buck. The $20 ones don't even have a removable battery and can't be turned off. I'm ordering one right now.
 

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I've found using a zip-tie works very nice for keeping the end wrapped around the spark plug wire, and makes it easy to remove if necessary.
 

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I've found using a zip-tie works very nice for keeping the end wrapped around the spark plug wire, and makes it easy to remove if necessary.
Dave, do you have the same meter? If so, what do you think of it? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I've found using a zip-tie works very nice for keeping the end wrapped around the spark plug wire, and makes it easy to remove if necessary.

I did exactly same thing. The meter wire kept unravelling itself from the loops. I got a couple small zip ties and after I twisted the number of wraps I needed(5) around the plug wire, I ran a zip tie between the wrapped wire and plug wire and loosely zipped it to keep from bunching up. Then ran another small tie around the wrap to hold it into place on plug wire. Worked great and easy to snip off if need be.

Del
 

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Dave, do you have the same meter? If so, what do you think of it? Thanks.
I bought a bunch of similar ones, but all black with buttons labelled "S1" and "S2" instead of M and S, and are sealed. They work ok, but sometimes moisture will get inside and cloud up the display or mess up the electronics, so I'll have to take it apart, dry it out and get it working again, then seal it up with rtv again (so the timer also resets). I mistakenly threw out the first couple that did this, before realizing it's easy to get them working again.

They've worked in all temps and conditions, from +35C in direct sunlight all day, to pounding rain and hail, to wet snow, to -35C and more snow.

So it's ok for what I paid for them (about $10 each) vs the similar ones sold locally for $50+ each.
 
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