[badtheba]

917.250520, Kohler Magnum MV20S-57529 19.5HP

I may have inherited a ~'95 GT6000 that my dad got used off the curb at Sears years ago.

Long story short, he has had a mechanic work on it for years, changing from mower deck to snowblower, tune-ups, repairs, etc. In the last month, this mechanic told him the motor is shot, nothing he can do except try a new fuel pump but he thinks the crankcase is letting air in somewhere, causing it to not stay running when hot. He ordered the fuel pump, 1-2 weeks later installed it and no change. My dad started offering it to friends, and I quickly stopped him and let him know I'd take it if only for the snowblower.

So everyone else he offered it to said they couldn't use it (for parts, repair, etc.), so I went out to take a look today, being next in line. I had it running fine within 5 minutes, and didn't really know what I had done.

Previous symptoms:
1. Would not start or run without full choke.
2. Sounded rough while running.
3. Loss of power after a few minutes of running

So my Google searches led me to believe it had to do with the carburetor, so I started there. Took off the entire air filter assembly, turned the key and it fired right up without opening the choke. I ran it for almost 45 minutes and ran around and mowed a bit during that time (it was not at all dusty out and I avoided tall grass or pollen areas since the air intake was unfiltered).

By this time my dad got back to his house, saw I was out in the yard, and said it would never have run that long. So I shut it down, started reassembly. I got the air filter box back on, and it sounded absolutely terrible. Checked out what had changed, and found the right side (facing tractor front) spark plug wire was pinching one of the throttle toggle pieces that's spring loaded. It wasn't that tight, but the spring couldn't overcome the pressure of the cable resting overtop. So I re-routed the spark plug wire, and the tractor fires up right away and sounds normal with NO choke, something it's never done as long as he's owned it.

So my question here is, should I do any carb rebuild or other engine overhauls before using it for blowing this winter? I plan on doing an oil change and seeing about the hydraulic pump or transaxle to get the hydrostatic to work a bit better. Other than a full break down and reassembly, is there any way to test the crankcase for leaks like the mechanic diagnosed? I can do a compression test as well. I guess my major concern is that even though it seemed like a simple fix, and it sounds "decent" now, it's getting older. I don't think there was much to what the mechanic said, but you never know. I'm hoping I corrected something that's been a hidden problem for a while.

 

[badtheba]

Oh, also comes with 842.242560 46" snowblower, with a shell of another one for spare parts, wheel weight and chain package, and a 46" mower deck with possibly some spare parts for that too. So if the engine works out I'll come out pretty well.

 

[RoyM]

That 'mechanic' is leaking air. A crank case air leak would show up as an oil leak, if air can get in, oil can get out. It would also blow blue smoke.
Sounds like you have solved the problem. That high tension lead was probably grounding through the metal it was rubbing on killing the spark to one cylinder. I had a chainsaw drive me nuts, the manufacturer had clipped the lead to a cylinder fin, removed the clip and voila.

 

[Everlandfarm]

IMHO, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Particuarly with the older machines. If it gives you a "warm tummy" feeling, buy the carb rebuild kit so it's on hand if needed. I'd replace plugs, air and fuel filter, change oil and have the battery load tested. Fill the tank with gas and Stabil or equiv. Some SeaFoam in the gas would be good to get any crud out of the fuel circuits and engine.

Good luck,

 

[badtheba]

There was no grounding problem that I know of, unless voltage could pass through the wire jacket. It was really just draped across the top of the carburetor, and once the air box was back on it pressed down on the throttle but could still be wiggled/moved by hand. It just seemed to inhibit the spring return for increasing throttle. It is now well out of the way.

Thanks for the input. I'll be hooking the blower up and driving it a mile to my shed. Hope the winter goes well for all of you. My dad has had a neighbor blow his driveway out with a Kubota for the last 3 years, so it's no issue there.

 

[Whirly]

IMHO, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." Particuarly with the older machines. If it gives you a "warm tummy" feeling, buy the carb rebuild kit so it's on hand if needed. I'd replace plugs, air and fuel filter, change oil and have the battery load tested. Fill the tank with gas and Stabil or equiv. Some SeaFoam in the gas would be good to get any crud out of the fuel circuits and engine.

Good luck,

too all that this machine should have an oil filter too.. then too.. stay away from the corn blended gas.. use the ethanol free gas.. u'll get more power from it then too..

I think I have the same tractor.. u can change the oil in the tranny & install a new filter too.. tranny should b made by Tuff-Torq.. Craftsman used this tranny in a lotta GT's.. the filter is a special one.. since it is on the vacuum side of the tranny pump.. there is a tread here where I did the oil change & repairs to my GT.. I found some loose & some busted bolts that hold the tranny in the frame..

here is the tread on my GT..

http://www.mytractorforum.com/14-cr...5161-word-advice-all-craftsman-gt-owners.html

this GT is still havin problems when movin.. I think there is still air trapped in the filter.. this has to b purged out with engine runnin.. I need to get it back in my shop before winter.. I'll update that tread when I do it..

 

[badtheba]

I think I have the same tractor.. u can change the oil in the tranny & install a new filter too.. tranny should b made by Tuff-Torq.. Craftsman used this tranny in a lotta GT's..

My model number is slightly different than the GT in your thread, and my manual calls the transaxle a Hydro Gear 214-3010?? Don't know what that means but Google indicates it was/is a US based manufacturer. As the manual shows a complete disassembly, it looks to be fully serviceable. I believe my dad at times said it felt slow to get going, so I'm sure it's worth checking and changing the gear oil. As far as I can tell the main issue with the transaxle is that when you pull up the rear lever to push the tractor with the gear released, it doesn't re-engage when dropped without fiddling with it a bit. I assume something's gummed up.

Hopefully snow hold off long enough for me to get my repair time in. I'll keep you posted.

 

[Whirly]

My model number is slightly different than the GT in your thread, and my manual calls the transaxle a Hydro Gear 214-3010?? Don't know what that means but Google indicates it was/is a US based manufacturer. As the manual shows a complete disassembly, it looks to be fully serviceable. I believe my dad at times said it felt slow to get going, so I'm sure it's worth checking and changing the gear oil. As far as I can tell the main issue with the transaxle is that when you pull up the rear lever to push the tractor with the gear released, it doesn't re-engage when dropped without fiddling with it a bit. I assume something's gummed up.

Hopefully snow hold off long enough for me to get my repair time in. I'll keep you posted.

u said:.. and my manual calls the transaxle a Hydro Gear 214-3010??

this is the same tranny as mine... I may have gotten the Tuff-Torq part wrong tho..

it takes the 51563 filter (Hydro-Gear ##) seen in my pics in tread..

 

[Whirly]

I have 2 Craftsman GT's.. one has a green rounded hood (Kohler "V" twin 22 hp).. the other is a square hood with a Kohler Magnum 19.5 in it.. both have the same tranny..

 

[badtheba]

I have 2 Craftsman GT's.. one has a green rounded hood (Kohler "V" twin 22 hp).. the other is a square hood with a Kohler Magnum 19.5 in it.. both have the same tranny..

My mistake. I saw Tuff-Torq and in the back of my head instantly thought of my Husqvarna with the "non serviceable" K46.

The exploded diagram for my transaxle shows an external filter 142912, and looks like it could be easily torn down. The manual, of course, says it is sealed from the factory and doesn't require service for the life of the tractor.

 

[VTXRider]

Sounds like it would be a great snow machine. Plenty of power and 46" path cutter. Not that we need it so much in Michigan. If it is running good, get it home and do the suggested maintenance, lube everything well.

I found a local source for "RV" gas for about $3.90 a gallon and have started using it in all my small engines. I put a lead additive in the old MTD 990 16hp Briggs and my old 8hp Briggs generator. Everything is running better with 100% gas and it will keep for up to a year instead of 30 days for gasohol.

 

[Whirly]

My mistake. I saw Tuff-Torq and in the back of my head instantly thought of my Husqvarna with the "non serviceable" K46.

The exploded diagram for my transaxle shows an external filter 142912, and looks like it could be easily torn down. The manual, of course, says it is sealed from the factory and doesn't require service for the life of the tractor.

YES.. if u buy from Sears Parts.. that 142912 is their number.. but I do not know if they still carry that filter..

Sears says that for all of their trannies.. nonserviceable..

 

[RoyM]

There was no grounding problem that I know of, unless voltage could pass through the wire jacket.

Any high tension wire will have a magnetic field surrounding it, if that field gets too close to metal and is broken the flow through the wire itself will be interrupted.

 

[badtheba]

This is before round 1 of degreaser on the the block and frame. I'm uploading a YouTube video, maybe someone can help me identify what I hear as a slight miss/hiccup every 5-6 strokes, especially at lower throttle. Otherwise this thing is running good at full throttle.

I got some degreaser and carb cleaner spray today and went through whatever I could and washed off anything that could handle it with a hose. Most of the throttle and governor linkages were pretty well caked in grease/dust/grime from mowing. The frame around the engine had easily 1/2" thick grease and mud and grime caked on. The block itself is pretty clean, but probably missing over half its original paint. I may have lost the clamp and screw for the choke cable... set it on the tractor body and forgot about it when I got it moving.

Although this thing has been maintained regularly, I'd say some of the maintenance has been rather lax. For instance, I don't think my dad has EVER cleaned out the mower deck itself, as there was grass and sand and twigs and metal bits from pop cans under the pulleys. I'm surprised he hasn't thrown a belt by now.

Going to get back out to his house tonight and see about getting the deck off to have a better look at the underside of the tractor. The transaxle seems to work fine and take off well after warming up, but upon first startup it doesn't budge for 2-3 minutes, and it hasn't been cold here yet.

More info on the mechanic. Both my parents suspect he's been on drugs of some sort the last couple times he's been out to look at it, so there may be contributing factors to his misdiagnosis. He used to be alcohol influenced, but apparently this is different.

 

[badtheba]

Got new spark plugs to install tonight, and haven't run any carb cleaner or additives through yet but plan on it.

Tell me if I'm missing anything, but so far I'm looking at new plugs, engine oil and filter change, tranny oil and filter change, lube everything I can on frame and blower.

Also, what might be the best source for a new seat for this thing? It says Michigan Seat on the bottom, and has screws all around the parameter where just the pad could be replaced. eBay and other sources only show complete seats.

 

[badtheba]

Youtube video of engine sound before new spark plugs, tune-up, or any real changes. I am detecting a subtle sound that seems like a small miss every few strokes, especially at half throttle. It doesn't seem to lose power at any moment while at full throttle, or driving, or with the PTO engaged.

https://youtu.be/-spmaEUgExo

 

[Whirly]

Got new spark plugs to install tonight, and haven't run any carb cleaner or additives through yet but plan on it.

Tell me if I'm missing anything, but so far I'm looking at new plugs, engine oil and filter change, tranny oil and filter change, lube everything I can on frame and blower.

Also, what might be the best source for a new seat for this thing? It says Michigan Seat on the bottom, and has screws all around the parameter where just the pad could be replaced. eBay and other sources only show complete seats.

just about all the sears tractors will take the same seat.. just make sure ur bolt pattern will fit.. I've even redrilled a mount plate to fit a odd pattern.. make sure the seat safety switch works when done replacin..

 

[VTXRider]

The engine starts well and runs fine from what I hear. Plugs and maybe Seafoam in the a couple tanks of gas would not hurt, as mentioned before. You may want to remove the engine fan shroud and clean under. Chances are it has never been done.

If dad wants it back, do you have much choice? Might be good for him to get out and clear the drive himself. I know it gets me out of the house in winter. I paid for two years to have it plowed in the past. (I'm 64, retired and a dad too.)

I stripped the seats on my old tractors and made foam pads covered with vinyl to sit on. The pans are still solid and painted black.

 

[badtheba]

If dad wants it back, do you have much choice?

I actually don't want to take it from him.

My wife's work plowed us out for free as long as she's worked there, but this year they shut down all plowing accounts and we had to come up with something. That's my main motivation for getting the thing in shape.

As far as ownership, a little background: My dad was in a head on collision years ago and broke everything from the waist down. He likes anything that gets him out of the house right now. Also, he's been retired for a little over a year now, and has just now been diagnosed with a form of PTSD from his accident. He's highly emotional and suffering from anxiety/panic attacks (all recent, his accident was over 15 years ago), and occasionally has to get out and away from everyone, or outside of the house to get away from feelings of being trapped.

When the mechanic gave him the bad news, he was devastated, as mowing has given him a lot of release (the neighbor now blows for him in winter, as his injuries haven't made life easy right now). When he offered it to others, and considered tossing it, he didn't know what if anything he'd replace it with. Once the last guy he offered it to said he couldn't use it and returned the manuals, he was relieved that I'd get it. Once I got it running, he was thrilled that it would be usable for me for winter.

So right now this thing is seeming a lot like therapy, and it's been awesome for his spirits just to see that it's staying in the family. It'll be back in his barn come next spring. I have my Husqvarna. That's not to say I don't want to get this thing in the shape I'd like it to be in, as technically it was given to me. But I'm not selfish.

 

[badtheba]

I replaced the plugs tonight, used carb cleaner on all of the external throttle and choke parts (haven't touched any internals yet, as I don't see a need yet), and removed the mower deck. I also did a hot compression test.

I don't find compression info in the manual, anyone know what it should be? I got roughly 92psi on both cylinders with nothing strange.

I'd really like to address the transaxle oil before I move on to inspecting and prepping the blower, so I'll be referencing the other threads linked here.