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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My in-laws are dropping off to me my grandparents-in-law's Ingersoll 4020. I haven't seen it but I've been told it sounds like it's running on one cylinder and now won't start.

Where can I locate a service manual for this motor? (Onan, I believe.)
Where can I get parts once I tear into it?

Suggestions for the best way to start tearing into it?

I'm not new to wrenching on motors. I'm new to working on tractors though. I've lurked here a little to gleen some info and find out that this series of tractor is a serious workhorse and worth putting some time into getting it running again.

They took it to a local dealer and they told them $2,000 to fix it but didn't detail what was involved. For less than that price I've seen the Honda 24hp replacement motor and adapters. I'm hoping not to go that route.
 

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It could be a broken rod, a stuck valve, a dead spark plug or a defective coil. You know the drill. These are the things to check out.

The parts manual for the tractor, including the engine, can be found for free at http://www.ingersolltractors.com . Just click on the "Illustrated Parts List" link and then find the 4020's by scrolling down the list. Use the serial number of your tractor to pinpoint the correct PDF and then open it.

Yahoo also has an Onan group. Go to Yahoo.com, select "Groups" and search for "Onan".

Your best course of action is to repair the Onan, not repower. The value of the tractor will be higher with the repair should you decide to sell it. Honda makes great engines but potential buyers cannot download an Ingersoll 4020 parts book that has a Honda engine in it. That fact scares people and puts them off your tractor because they don't know how good a job you did when conducting the re-power.

Onan parts are readily available. Ask here for directions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Obviously I'm hoping for simple (plugs, wires, coil, etc.) What scares me is that they ran it for a while numerous times on 1 cylinder. So if it was a rod, I'm worried about the condition of the case and walls.
 

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Most likely no damage has been done by running it on one cylinder only. Tough little engines. As stated above check out the obvious first. Quick compression check will narrow it down fast.

TJ
Another potential problem that can do damage by continuing to run it, is a loose valve seat. It will eat up the block where the seat fits. The only way to tellwhat is wrong though, as you already know, is to check it out. Hope for the simple stuff!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I've got my fingers crossed. If I can't get it started, what are the suggestions for getting the motor to operating temps to even do a compression test? (At least in the 2-stroke world you want it at operating temps due to the expansion of rings, etc.)
 

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You can run a compression test at ambient temperature. If you have a serious problem, like a broken rod, it will show up instantly. If you get a reading of less than 80 psi then you'll have problems that need further investigation.
 

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Wouldn't it be much simpler to just remove both spark plugs and then put your thumb over the plug hole while giving the engine a little spin using the ignition key?

OR........

you could stick a piece of coathanger wire through the plug hole until it hits the piston. Lock up the PTO clutch and turn the engine by hand while keeping a bit of pressure on the coathanger wire. If the wire moves up and down, the rod isn't broken. If the rods appear to be ok, then revert to the test above. That should tell you if a valve is stuck or bent.

If spinning the engine can't force your thumb off the plug hole, then it's time to pull the head on that side.
 
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