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Discussion Starter #1
the Ingersoll has proven to be an attraction around here.
I would like to continue to add upgrades to this wonderful machine and get it ready for tilling (if I can) but also for snow removal (contracts coming in!)
this will be a challenge as I will not be purchasing the cab and 3ph, but rather making them myself. (money is tight, luckily a relative has a fab shop)

I am looking to build the snow cab from plans on the yahoo group.
my main concern is if those plans were ment for the 4000 series?
- I also need to source a wiper motor and blade.
- windows? maybe from a late 80s panel van? rear windows....

3ph.
I want to make the newer one for my tractor... but the plans on yahoo are for the older style. can I purchase any parts to help me in the build process?
- top link?
- side arms?
- hydraulic cylinder
 

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I am looking to build the snow cab from plans on the yahoo group.
my main concern is if those plans were ment for the 4000 series?

It never stops with you, does it Calzone? :bannana: Use the plans as a guide. There is little difference between your skanky 4016 and a true CASE 446. :biglaugh:

- I also need to source a wiper motor and blade.
Can you say "power boat"? :biglaugh:

http://www.go-marine.com/coast/do/catalog/page?dealerId=850&pageNum=349


- windows? maybe from a late 80s panel van? rear windows....

NOPE: When you get the cab finished, you locate a glass guy that can cut safety glass for heavy equipment and you take the tractor to his place. He will custom cut and install a windshield, lower windows and rear window. IF you are making flexible doors, then you can cut Lexan for them.​

3ph.
I want to make the newer one for my tractor... but the plans on yahoo are for the older style. can I purchase any parts to help me in the build process?
- top link?
- side arms?
- hydraulic cylinder
Lift arms for CAT 1 are available but they are too long. However, they could be cut down and have CAT 0 ends put on. But why bother? Just buy the four CAT 0 ends you need and fabricate the arms from flat bar. Top links are universal for CAT 0 and likely can be ordered from the same place that the ends come from. The cylinder is a different story. Those are custom made for Case and Ingersoll but by modifying the hitch design, you can use a cylinder from a guy on e-Bay. Maybe I'll let you know who that is once I've eaten your hamburgers. :00000060: :fing32:

The old J-26 was a very good hitch and I am troubled greatly by you just dismissing it out of hand. Ingersoll redesigned the three point so it could be fitted onto the Lo Pro tractors as well as what you've got. Is it a slightly more robust design? Of course. But you don't really need a three point for a tiller or some other attachments either. The three point's forte' has to do mainly with its ability to tilt an attachment sideways. If you are using a single bottom plow and you have the right side wheels in the previous furrow, you can spin the lift arm adjustment and level the plow out.

So, unless you can come up with a really good reason to build the three-point, then why not just duplicate the sleeve hitch for the moment?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
LOL maybe one day when I can afford a true case 446 I will sell my skanky 4016. because for some reason canadian collectors just keep raising the price on the true case tractors!
:biglaugh:

I was just thinking the panel van windows would save some $$. they are safety glass arnt they.

I wouldnt go as far to say im dismissing the older 3ph, I just thought if the newer one was possible then I would go that route.
But since you do own a older 3ph MR.CG2 when you come for hamburgers, remember to bring your 3ph with you. will take it over to my cousin to have him look at it and to duplicate :)

ps. you have links to the hardware I need? plz :D
 

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LOL maybe one day when I can afford a true case 446 I will sell my skanky 4016. because for some reason canadian collectors just keep raising the price on the true case tractors!
:biglaugh:

It's nice to know that you still dream, Grasshopper.

I was just thinking the panel van windows would save some $$. they are safety glass arnt they

Side and rear glass on vehicles are made from tempered glass. Once tempered, it cannot be cut. Windshield glass is laminated. It consists of two pieces of glass with a sheet of clear plastic that is sandwiched between them. This prevents the windshield from exploding into a million sugar cubes when it breaks and flying back in your face and eyes while at speed. Panel van windows are often curved slightly to conform with the contours of the body. As it happens, I have a 1986 GMC Rally window van that is going to the wreckers very shortly. You can have all the glass out of it but in all honesty, I don't think the sizes would work for you. If the burgers are good and tasty, the glass will be free for the taking. .

I wouldnt go as far to say im dismissing the older 3ph, I just thought if the newer one was possible then I would go that route.

Anything is possible if you are willing to spend the time and money to make it happen. I would just copy the J-26 and then beef it up a bit. Keep in mind that a J-26 will pick up more weight than your tractor can handle while keeping the front wheels on the ground. That's why Case strongly recommended the use of a front mounted counterweight when using the tiller and other ground engaging attachments such as dual discs and 12" moldboard plow.


But since you do own a older 3ph MR.CG2 when you come for hamburgers, remember to bring your 3ph with you. will take it over to my cousin to have him look at it and to duplicate :) I can do that Calzone but will your ugly brother be there? He probably wants to kick my *** by now.:eek:mg: :biglaugh:

ps. you have links to the hardware I need? plz :D
As my hero Wimpy was fond of saying: "I will pay you Thursday for the hamburgers I eat today". :bannana:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ahhh I did not think of little glass cubes flying around.

I think copying the J-26 would be best in my situation.
do you have any ideas as to what would be beefed up? if im doing this would like it to be done as best as possible. and with your expertise I am sure this will be killer :D!!
I know I will need help locating the proper hardware and ends for this project.

J.Wellington Wimpy would say "I will gladly pay you Tuesday for a hamburger today"
 

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The heavier weight 3 pt was used on the loader tractors and can lift a great deal of weight but it is also a heavier tractor with a heavy bucket on the front end. The cylinder lift circuit on the loaders also operates at a higher pressure than the attachment lift cylinder.
 

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The deck cylinder is the same diameter but the stroke is shorter. Several of us have kicked around the idea of using two deck lift cylinders in parallel with a change in leverage to give the same amount of lift travel.

Yes, a travel/lift valve can be used as a PTO valve. The travel spool substitutes for the PTO and the lift valve is perfect for controlling the 3 point.

The cabs bolt to the top of the rear fenders which means you will have to drill holes. The windshield area only comes down so far because you need a hinged flap to allow the hood to flip open. You can stabilize lateral cab movement by using foam weatherstripping between the cab frame and the steering/dash tower. You can also bolt the cab to the steering/dash tower.

Has anyone advised you about how hard these cabs are to heat on an Ingy? On the superior Case 446, heat is not a problem thanks to the engine orientation. Most owners strip naked while clearing snow. And did you know that the interior windows fog up from all that moisture you expell while breathing? You need to get a face mask from an F-18 with a long flex pipe that leads to the outside for the times you breathe out. For the times you breath in, you need an oxygen bottle so you are not rebreathing the stale air in the long pipe. Of course, you will need a proper valve to make this system work. Perhaps something from your local SCUBA shop.

For more hamburgers, I could give you a copy of the Operator's Manual for the cabs.

The drawings you stole from the Yahoo site are a guideline. They are not absolute because the cabs are different between the 200 and 400 models, thanks to fender heights. Also, 400's built after 1978 and 4000's are two inches longer between the seat pedestal and the dash pedestal. This is what fabrication is all about. You begin mocking up your cab design to suit the tractor you have. Sorry.... but...... there are no "plans" that provide a "cut list" for all the components needed to construct these cabs. It's all done by trial and error correction.

Just look at what Jayvee is going through to construct his FEL.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
CG2
more hamburgers... sure :D
for heating the cab, the oil cooler is on the side next to your foot when seated, couldnt I use a fan and draw air in from that?

crap, this means I need to drill some holes in my skanky 4016.... :(
im starting to think I shouldnt use this in the winter LOL

Bart.
Thank you sooo much! its all clear now.
 

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Last winter, the whole cab heat thing was beat to death on the CCI forum. No one believed that the you could get adequate heat from the oil cooler and all the Case owners were laughing at the 4 digit Ingy owners because they were toasty warm. There was even discussion about building stainless steel mufflers with a heat exchanger so that a small pump could push water/antifreeze through it and then to a heater coil with fan inside the cab. That's how desperate those crazy Ingy owners are to get heat. Imagine that plumbing nightmare and finding the room to do it?

There was also talk of keeping a propane powered catalytic heater between your legs. This whole winter snow clearing issue is one of the reasons that drives people to own two tractors. One that is totally set up for winter and the other for summer chores.

Maybe you should forget the cab thing for this year and invest in a real good snow outfit from a place that sells clothing to snowmobile guys. First-class boots, pants, jacket, gloves and head gear to keep everything nice and warm along with anti-fog goggles.

What about the steam show this coming weekend, Calzone?? Is youse up for it or not?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
I guess your giving me a reason to buy a "real case".
lol. or maybe get my 222 with a blower.

instead of welding up a heater core etc.
couldnt you just use a portable electric heater? like the very very small personal home ones.

hummm steam show :D need to talk with family first.
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so.. how much is admission?
:sidelaugh
 

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Your 4120's pump is in the same spot as the 4016. The difference is that your Onan engine is still facing forward because of the fact the 4120 is an all hydraulic model with no mechanical clutch. Therefore, your Onan blows hot air rearward just like they did in all the earlier 446 and 448 models. Calzone's engine faces the other way so it blows cooling air forward. Ergo... no cab heat for Calzone.
 

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Your 4120's pump is in the same spot as the 4016. The difference is that your Onan engine is still facing forward because of the fact the 4120 is an all hydraulic model with no mechanical clutch. Therefore, your Onan blows hot air rearward just like they did in all the earlier 446 and 448 models. Calzone's engine faces the other way so it blows cooling air forward. Ergo... no cab heat for Calzone.

Reason #763.7 to not like those backward engines. :D
 

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For the definitive answer, you would have to ask Ingersoll.

If I were to speculate, then I would offer the following.

1. Heat... Many owners complained about the engine heat being blown back to the operator during the summer. In spite of moving the mufflers under the hood and adding heat shields, the problem persisted. Reversing the engine pretty much solved that problem.

2. Clutch. The irony here is that the old mechanical clutch is superior to the electric clutch but try explaining that to owners that don't know which end of a hammer you hang on to. By 1989, almost every tractor out there had a switch of some kind to engage the mower deck. While it wasn't necessary to rotate the engine in the frame to provide this, I think it was just part of the "new and improved" marketing push.

3. Deck discharge........ I'd venture to guess, Case and Ingersoll were the only machines with left side discharge. Some people might view this as "bucking the trend". In other words, if every other manufacturer uses right-side discharge, then they must know something that Case and Ingersoll don't. FACT: Which side of the deck you discharge clippings from is a non-issue. It's the design of the tractor that dictates the discharge side and C/I have always offered a rear-discharge deck which further proves that "side doesn't matter".

4. Design and public perception......... Marketers know that the public has a thirst for something better than what they currently have because to a degree, it's the marketers who convinced the public of this in the first place. Case introduced the 200/400 series tractors in 1969. Other than minor changes in fender and hood design, the tractors remained essentially the same for 20 years. Some of us look upon that as being a good thing while others consider that as being stuck in a time warp. By rotating the engine in the frame, going with an electric clutch, switching to right-side discharge along with some other changes, Ingersoll was able to offer an "new and improved" tractor line for the first time in twenty-years.

The changes were something that Joe Average consumer could see when he walked into the showroom and mentally compared the 4 digit tractor in front of him to the 3 digit tractor sitting in his garage. Most likely, it spurred sales at the dealers and since the company was already in deep trouble by this time, I'm sure that they thought the new design might pull them back from the edge of the abyss. As we know, that didn't happen.
 
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