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Discussion Starter #1
I can't seem to get my Ingersoll 222 started. I had it started yesterday on a cold morning, but I let the choke off too soon and tractor quit. It won't start anymore now. I am not even able to get the neutral light to turn on. My seat does not have a safety switch, but I'm pretty sure there is a neutral safety switch and PTO safety switch. I've tried jiggling the forward/reverse level around neutral, and jiggled the PTO lever, and made sure it is pulled all the way back. No luck. The 30 amp fuse looks fine to me. To rule out the battery, I hooked a charger with 50 amps up to the battery, but still no luck. No headlights when I turn the switch, and no neutral light.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I figured out a way to get it started, I just don't like it. But I'm in Michigan and need to do some snow clearing. I had to connect a wire directly from the positive battery terminal to the red-wire that goes in to the key switch. I suspect I am bypassing the neutral safety switch now.
 

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Check the ignition switch its not unusual for them to go out. Use a multi meter. You can get a switch here: 608-220-7062 ask for Bill
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I don't believe the issue is with the ignition switch, but rather in the safety sensors. I'm not actually bypassing the ignition switch, but instead am bypassing the PTO sensor and the neutral sensor. I wired the hot from the battery directly in to the hot/IN on the ignition switch. This allowed me to get the tractor started. I have to make sure I check first to make sure the tractor is in neutral and the PTO is not engaged... yikes.
 

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If you post the serial number we can tell you how old your tractor is and how many safety switches it has is the tractor painted tan and case red?
 

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I don't believe the issue is with the ignition switch, but rather in the safety sensors. I'm not actually bypassing the ignition switch, but instead am bypassing the PTO sensor and the neutral sensor. I wired the hot from the battery directly in to the hot/IN on the ignition switch. This allowed me to get the tractor started. I have to make sure I check first to make sure the tractor is in neutral and the PTO is not engaged... yikes.
If I understand that correctly, it doesn't bypass the safeties. They are in series with one of the small solenoid terminals and ground. The wire from the battery to the switch is what you bypassed.

flow is like this: battery - ign sw bat terminal - ign sw start term - solenoid start in term - solenoid start out term - neutral sw - pto sw - ground.
 

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Hemlock Case Guy
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The fuse cannot truly be tested without the minimum of a test light. Your fuse is blown, most likely.

Listen, to all who may read this. You CANNOT own an older tractor AND not invest in basic tools that are needed to keep them going. I am not going to make a list for you, though. But here is how your needs will get met.

In this case, you need both a test light and a basic volt/ohm meter. The test light is easy a quick but does not tell you how good a connection.

Your next breakdown or maintenance job will mean yet more tools. Find something you need to do and it is difficult, there may be a tool that helps. That is how you end up with the tools and a well running older tractor.

But, in my opinion, it is not as bad as buying a boat. When you buy a boat, that purchase is nothing compared to the cost of owning and operating a boat,
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Most of my electrical issues did end up being the ignition switch as suggested earlier by G.Paul. I had incorrectly gotten it my head that my issue was the pto and neutral sensor, thinking that those sensors were on the hot path from the battery to the starter. It never occurred to me that those sensors are actually on the neutral path back to ground. My sensors were actually working correctly all along.
 
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