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"Infrastructure" needed for new tractor?

1222 Views 8 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Acerguy
Hi, fellow gear heads. I'm looking to get my very first 4-wheel tractor. I'm 62 years old. Until this point, I've been making do with various mowers, tillers, and a 2-wheel BCS tractor (my intro).

Before I treat myself, though, I want to be ready. Put it another way, I would love to have your thoughts and opinions as to what constitutes a minimum of tractor readiness. Too little readiness, and I will regret not taking care of certain things earlier. Too much readiness, and I will delay my new way of life unnecessarily.

Specific concerns have to do with travel, storage, and maintenance. I'm looking to get a John Deere 2320 with several attachments. I apologize in advance for the verbosity of this post. Call me a nervous first-timer. Please feel respond to any of the questions, if not all. Thank y'all very much.



Currently, I have a Toyota 4Runner 4wd V6 that is capable of towing 5000 lbs., and a BigTex 30sv utility trailer, weighing about 900 lbs and capable of hauling about 3000 lbs.

(1) Is this enough rig for hauling, at least, the tractor? I could always haul the attachments separately. I figure I'll need to haul the tractor for some services. I can do minor things like oil changes, but major services will require someone else to do.

(2) Whether the above rig is sufficient for carrying the tractor, or whether a new rig is required, what does one need to tie the tractor down while in motion? I'm sure I wouldn't want the tractor moving around back there.

(3) I could spring for a new trailer, but a new truck is out of the question. So, for me, the key question is how critical or important is the ability to be self-sufficient in terms of transporting one's tractor? If I don't have the ability to move it, will the experience of depending on others for this service be a constant regret?


(4) I don't have a barn or shelter Actually, I'd like to level a space for a barn with a new tractor, but realistically, it'll will be a while before this is done. I'm not a nut case when it comes to keeping new vehicles pristine, but I don't like to leave new tools to the mercy of the weather, either. Tractors seem more vulnerable to the elements than are cars, because of the exposed components. How important is having a garage to store one's tractor?


(5) Finally, how important is it to have robust electricity wherever the tractor is stored? I presume that I could always run an extension cord for simple power (lights, small tools), but is more robust power needed for routine maintenance?
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First :MTF_wel2: :MTF_wel2: :MTF_wel2:

Second the 2320 seems like a great choice for your needs. Of course I'm partial to the 2520 :ROF

I would definitely recommend getting some storage options for the tractor and implements as quickly as possible. A short term temp solution might be a relatively inexpensive metal frame/tarp assembly just to get it out of the rain/snow etc.

Thanks again for joining us and again :MTF_wel:

Also don't forget :wwp: :wwp: :wwp:
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Welcome to the forum

You should not have any problem hauling the 2320 on your trailer if it is wide enough and long enough.
You can get some chain and ratchet binders to tie it down.
I also would suggest that you get a small carport to store it in. They are only about $700.00. You have an investment you must protect.
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Is that BigTex 30sv utility trailer a single axle? Most heavy duty single axle trailers have a 3500 lb. axle rating. I have a 5’x10’ single axle trailer myself. We have had discussions here before and the consensus has pretty much been (for safety reasons) that one should have at least a dual axle trailer (7,000 lb. rating) with at least one of the axles having brakes. Usually this type of trailer is at least 16 feet long. Several good reasons for having the tandem are the weight it is able to carry and the safety factor of hauling with a tandem rather than a single axle. The tandems don’t have a tendency to swerve as much and they pull better plus a major benefit is if you have a tire blow out you can still maintain control. A single axle blowout with the weight of your tractor and implements could have catastrophic results in loss of control of your vehicle; especially with the lighter weight of your Toyota 4Runner. You also have to think about stopping all that weight safely. The trailer axle brake(s) would give you a margin of safety that you would not have on a single axle trailer with no brakes. Your 2320 will weigh in about 1660 lbs. Of course adding fuel, implements etc. will run the weight up quickly. Best of luck. Be safe.
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I agree with Ya-Ya on the dual axle. It just would not be safe otherwise. I am just use to not seeing anything over 10 ft around here without duals. What ever you do be careful.
I have a 8x12 single axle 3000lbs capicity trailer. It's it all will do to carry my 2305 safely. I would also suggest a larger trailer. I prefer the straps compared to the chains and binders either will do. Good luck, slkpk
Take each point one at a time

1-The JD spec sheet lists the tractor as "1660 lb. unballasted operating weight". This is just the tractor, no implements. Your Fourunner should have the oomph to pull it, just go easy. How long is the trailer? For just the tractor, 12 feet should be minimal length, to allow you to place it so the weight is distributed over the axle and to give you proper tongue weight. If you'r gonna eventually hang a loader on front, or a rotary cutter on back, 14 -16 feet would be better. I agree with the above that a tandem axle is a much better choice, but if you have a single axle with a 3500# rating, it would carry the load. I just wouldn't make any cross-country trips, and would limit the tow speed to about 45 mph. BRAKES ON THE TRAILER ARE A MUST, whether it's a single or tandem. The brakes on your Foreunner aren't up to the task of hauling the vehicle and 2600+ lb of trailer/tractor down from speed in an emergency. You might also consider some method of jacking or blocking the rear of the trailer so that when you load and unload it, the rear is stabilized against the weight of the tractor, and doesn't try to pop the tongue off the truck hitch, or lift the rear of the truck. A tandem isn't quite as bad for this as a single-axle, but both will do it.

2- strapping down. The best is to use chains with a ratcheting chain tightener, front and rear. Next best is to get the heaviest nylon tie-down straps you can find that have a ratcheting mechanism. Regular pull-to-tighten types won't get tight enough. You'll have to look at the tractor to find places to attach chains or starps to, the front weight rack works well, and the drawbar frame up at the rear axle is a good spot. Just don't attach to something that will get bent or tear off. I use 2" nylon straps on my 748 (x 4), one at each corner of the tractor. It weighs about 1300# with MMM, and it won't go anywhere. Just look for the capacity of the straps when you buy, multiply that by 4 and give yourself a 25% margin.

3- If you're only going to use the tractor around home, you don't HAVE to have a trailer to move it. If you need to take it for service major enough that it can't be done at your home, you could rent a trailer. BUT, a trailer is a very nice thing to have, just ensure it's big enough (as you are doing by asking questions) to do what you want.

4-Storage. It would be optimal to have at least a shed to park under, but if that is in the short-range plans after acquisition of the tractor, just get a poly tarp big enough to spread over it, bungee it down.

5-Electricity is nice to have, but not a 'got to have'. A small air compressor, to keep the tires pumped up, is about the only thing I can think of offhand you'd need for routine maintenance that needs electricity. A drop cord and work light, if you plan to do anything after dark (why?) that the tractor's lights won't illuminate. You can always get a small gasoline generator for simple, low current needs like lights, if you don't have ready access to an outlet.

These are all my thoughts, based on my own experiences with the subjects you ask about. As far as hauling goes, I regularly pull my tractor, two or three times a week during the summer, to places where I mow and do other related work, and the other things, well I have a shed and electricity, and know that it's really nice to have, but I could live for a while without it.
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Thank you all so much. These are terrific suggestions and cautions--exactly what I was looking for.

Sounds like I need a new trailer, for starters. My BigTex is a single axle without brakes. I could add brakes, but even so, it sounds like it's not nearly big enough. The bed is only about 8 feet long. I'm embarrassed for thinking it might do.

And, a carport shelter will do until I get a barn built. Now, if you'll excuse me, I'm going to return some pop bottles and look under the couch cushions, in search of about $25,000.

Thank you again. I love this forum.
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Before investing in a new trailer, I'd suggest talking with your dealer to see how much they charge to pick up and drop off a tractor. My dealer delivered my rig when I bought it (no charge) and I believe they regularly charge about $40 to pick up and drop off. The one time I needed to have them service it, they waved the delivery charge. :) Even if they hadn't, it's still cheaper than, in my case, buying a bigger trailer AND buying a bigger vehicle to tow it.
Meanwhile, your current setup is plenty for picking up any implements that you might want to buy.:fing32:
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