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I KNEW I should'nt have clicked on this. Just the thing to go with the rear tiller. I can just imagine where the bidding will finally end.
 

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Gravelyyard.com
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What ever it goes for will pale compared to what the 6 pairs of wheel weights will cost to fill it! I've seen the wheel weights go for as much as $245 for a set, but they average between $75 to $100 a pair. It took me over 4 years to fill a rack because I refused to pay more than $50 a pair.

You can save money by using "Olympic" type bar bell weights. Those are the ones with the two inch hole in them. I use to buy them for about 98 cents a pound. If you run the rack on the front or the back of a single cylinder engine, you can use 5 or 10 pounders. If you run it on the back of a Kohler twin, you can only use 5 pounders.

That kit is missing the Frankenstein bolts and the piece that mounts on a lift hitch.

Here is a picture of the weight rack on the front for tiller work. It makes a big difference. If you look at the front wheels you can see homemade front weights. Those are "Olympic" style bat bell weights with holes driller for the mounting bolts. There is a 5lb on the inside (not seen) and a 10 lb in the front.
 

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That's your rig arcam? Very nice! For the mathematically challenged, what total weight front and back do you use?

I'm planning on using mine to repair large sections of my back and side yards. I need to till up a couple inches of the existing soil (all just fill in one spot, beach sand In another) and incorporate new topsoil to get a good loamy mix. I'm thinking a back blade might be nice to do some simple smoothing and very light grading afterwards.
 

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Gravelyyard.com
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That's your rig arcam? Very nice! For the mathematically challenged, what total weight front and back do you use?

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Thanks, and the picture has 5 pair on it for total of 150lbs. Each pair is 30lbs, it holds 6 pair for a total of 180lbs. I figure the rack itself is 20, so a grand total of 200 lbs.

Then if you add another pair to the front wheels, that's 30 more...... :00000060:
 

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I Love All Color Tractors
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Or you could just con your neighbor with a few beers to just sit on the hood. That would save a lot of money. :sidelaugh
 

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What ever it goes for will pale compared to what the 6 pairs of wheel weights will cost to fill it! I've seen the wheel weights go for as much as $245 for a set, but they average between $75 to $100 a pair. It took me over 4 years to fill a rack because I refused to pay more than $50 a pair.

You can save money by using "Olympic" type bar bell weights. Those are the ones with the two inch hole in them. I use to buy them for about 98 cents a pound. If you run the rack on the front or the back of a single cylinder engine, you can use 5 or 10 pounders. If you run it on the back of a Kohler twin, you can only use 5 pounders.

That kit is missing the Frankenstein bolts and the piece that mounts on a lift hitch.

Here is a picture of the weight rack on the front for tiller work. It makes a big difference. If you look at the front wheels you can see homemade front weights. Those are "Olympic" style bat bell weights with holes driller for the mounting bolts. There is a 5lb on the inside (not seen) and a 10 lb in the front.
I've heard of, but never seen a weight rack. Seeing the ebay pictures and yours, I can see how the whole thing works. I'd go with the weights myself.
I used the tiller without weights, but it was a challenge. Plus, with the tiller in the raised position, I had to make the beginning of my turns along with the return trips to the next row to be tilled carefully.
It lookes like your tractor is a long frame too. I imagine that that would help to keep things straighter going when tilling.
 

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Gravelyyard.com
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I've heard of, but never seen a weight rack. Seeing the ebay pictures and yours, I can see how the whole thing works. I'd go with the weights myself.
I used the tiller without weights, but it was a challenge. Plus, with the tiller in the raised position, I had to make the beginning of my turns along with the return trips to the next row to be tilled carefully.
It lookes like your tractor is a long frame too. I imagine that that would help to keep things straighter going when tilling.
yes, it's a long frame, I've never tilled with a short frame. I have tilled without the front weights and it's much easier with the weight. Especially if you have hilly terrain. Without them, steering is kind of squirrelly.
 

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Gravelyyard.com
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Or you could just con your neighbor with a few beers to just sit on the hood. That would save a lot of money. :sidelaugh
Years ago, I ran my 8123 and 38" snowblower without weights or chains. I got stuck and told Lindey to stand on the hitch so I could get some traction. It worked but it was devastating for her ego. Fortunately for my future well being, we got stuck once and her weight was not enough to get us moving. So she drove and I stood on the hitch and we got moving again. I told her she was too skinny to do much good.

Yes, I dodged a bullet that day and got the drive cleared!

That's when I started looking for weights.
 

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I Love All Color Tractors
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Years ago, I ran my 8123 and 38" snowblower without weights or chains. I got stuck and told Lindey to stand on the hitch so I could get some traction. It worked but it was devastating for her ego. Fortunately for my future well being, we got stuck once and her weight was not enough to get us moving. So she drove and I stood on the hitch and we got moving again. I told her she was too skinny to do much good.

Yes, I dodged a bullet that day and got the drive cleared!

That's when I started looking for weights.
Nice dodge on that one! :thThumbsU
 

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That kit is missing the Frankenstein bolts and the piece that mounts on a lift hitch.
So is this kit usable in its current form [as advertised]?

Or would you need to spend a lot of time chasing some other parts which are even more rare than the parts which are shown in the pictures?

Thanks.
 

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Gravelyyard.com
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So is this kit usable in its current form [as advertised]?

Or would you need to spend a lot of time chasing some other parts which are even more rare than the parts which are shown in the pictures?

Thanks.
All you would need to mount it on the front would be the frankenstien bolts. You would need the one other part to mount it on the back of a tractor with a lift hitch. You can mount it on the back of a regular fixed hitch as it's being sold.

Either the long or short franken bolts will work.
 

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Gravelyyard.com
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And how would a "frankenstein" bolt differ from just a normal bolt that I might get from Tractor Supply?

Thanks.
The franken bolts have a thick center section. In this picture, the red one is the short syle and the rusty one is the longer type. They are used in many applications.
 

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Thanks for the awesome picture.

Is that an "industry standard" bolt shape, or is it Gravely proprietary?

[And if it's Gravely proprietary, then I guess the next question would be whether, say, Richard in WV could get his hands on it.]
 
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