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Discussion Starter #1
Update on the International 140 tractor
So the radiator cap was in bad shape and I picked up a new one at Tractor Supply after trying a couple that didn’t fit. I figured that the tractor didn’t have a thermostat in it as it never got hot. Putting on a functional cap of course raised the pressure in the cooling system and the seepage from the water pump became a stream. I sort of expected that as the whole machine was lacking in maintenance when I got it. Went online and ordered a new pump, thermostat, gaskets, upper and lower radiator hoses and a new radiator as the existing one was pretty beat up. The website said to order a new cap as the old one might not fit. I contacted the seller and told them to be sure and send me a cap and hoses to fit the radiator they were sending and my tractor. Took about a week and the stuff came in. Of course the radiator cap was not the right size and the upper hose didn’t fit so I need to return those, everything else fit well. I’ve come to expect this sort of thing. I was very happy to find the thermostat spring retainer in its groove as no one seems to sell replacements. A real curve ball was how almost no one carries 7/16th carriage bolts, Lowe’s, Home Depot and Ace hardware were all a wash but a stop at Tractor Supply saved the day. There are 2 of these that hold the radiator to the mount and that size is required to fit the built in slots. It’s been awhile since I did this sort of repair and while looking up on the net some other folks that have done similar repairs bad mouthed the manner that I used to use to hold a gasket in place when putting things back together. I always spread gasket goo on the gasket to keep it in place when remounting the part. They didn’t like that and said it wasn’t needed so I had to learn the hard way that yes it was. The pictures should tell the story. When I got it all together this evening for the second time I only had a few leaks, all I which I stopped I think except for one spot that needs a new hose clamp. Nice to see it running again and it certainly heats up now. I know the distributer is still installed 180 deg out but it runs fine for now until this all is completed. I want to install a coolant recovery tank soon to stop the rusting in the head/engine block.
 

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I always use a light coat of brush on gasket sealer, to those who say it isn't necessary, to each their own.

Not a fan of blue silicone. I've torn enough engines down, where a PO has put too much on, and have found pieces in the oil pan. Sure makes for a mess, and a lot of extra clean up.
 

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I'm with DJ54 on the blue goo. Don't care for it. Guess that I'm old school and still use Permatex. But each to their own.

Here is a tip about the "rust" in the engine block that won't keep it from happening, but really helps to slow the formation down.
Purchase Pre-Diluted Antifreeze, the 50/50 stuff, that uses De-Ionized and Distilled water. I know, I know. Nobody wants to spend money on water, but it's the minerals in the water that help create that mess. Don't use any coolant/anti-freeze with silicates in it either.
I'd give your my back ground in the stuff, but I don't want to bore you to death.
I have a Chevron distributor nearby and the Chevron DELO 50/50 Pre-Diluted stuff works real well. See if you can find something similar nearby, maybe from another brand. It's usually more of a heavy duty diesel engine stuff for motors with removable sleeves, which most Farmall's have. Oh, and if they tell you it's for diesel engines only, the coolant really won't care what fuel is being burnt.
Of course you can purchase the full strength A/F and cut it with Distilled and De-Ionized water from a local pure water bottling company, but it's easier to purchase the already made stuff.

Just remember No silicates, Distilled & De-Ionized water...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Dave
Many thanks for the info. Here in south FL our well water is hard and causes deposits unless used with a water softener. As the cooling system doesn't hold that much and I've already put in a new radiator and water pump getting a few gallons of distilled water to add to the antifreeze isn't a problem. I like to keep some around for batteries anyway. I am trying to install a coolant recovery tank as in newer vehicles with the intent of keeping air out of the system. Do you think that's a worthwhile project?
 

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Kish JD 318/420/430
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I see the neck of the radiator has a nipple, so you would need to find a place to mount the tank. Normally close by the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Found a coolant tank from O'Reilly fairly cheap. Turned out to be stout but a little big for where I mounted it using a hardware store piece of steel. Wanted it close to the top but not far from the cap and protected from brush and tree limbs. I attached the grill piece with thumbscrews for easier access and think I can simply check to see if there is fluid in the line at the radiator nipple as a quick indication of coolant. Now to get some distilled water from Wally World and fill it all with an antifreeze mix.
 

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