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Just Have a Little Faith!
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1968 Charger 12 that I have been rebuilding,to not neccessarily original specs. It will not have head lights or other electronic accessories, such as cigarette lighter or CB radio.

The '68 ignition system incorporated a 3 terminal ignition switch, a breakerless ignition coil, and no starter solinoid.

The replacement engine is a K341 of undetermind age, from a Kohler genset, with point ignition and unknown wiring skematic.

What I am asking is for you all to tell me the best way to wire this tractor, regardless of what was original including the ignition switch.
 

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I'm thinking your going to need a new ignition switch for a 12V battery ignition system & a start circuit solenoid.
Your current switch won't provide power to the coil or shut it off when you kill the engine.
 

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Yes, you will probably need one of the newer switches that has a switched ground to shut it down. Acc position to power the coil, and a switched ground to the coil to kill the engine and a start to the K321 starter solenoid.

You can run the regulator charge wire directly to the battery side of the solenoid fused at 15 amps or so if not running lights if it has the regulator.
 

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Just Have a Little Faith!
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Discussion Starter #4
There is no switch right now. It's your choice. I have an owner's manual for a '75 C series, should I use that? I don't have the safetys, though.
 

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Here is a pretty basic diagram. Just leave off the lights if you don't want them.
 

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Just Have a Little Faith!
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Discussion Starter #6
Basic is always good. Any advise on the location of the solinoid? Should it be as close to the starter as possible?
 

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I have a 1968 Charger 12 that I have been rebuilding,to not neccessarily original specs. It will not have head lights or other electronic accessories, such as cigarette lighter or CB radio.

The '68 ignition system incorporated a 3 terminal ignition switch, a breakerless ignition coil, and no starter solinoid.

The replacement engine is a K341 of undetermind age, from a Kohler genset, with point ignition and unknown wiring skematic.

What I am asking is for you all to tell me the best way to wire this tractor, regardless of what was original including the ignition switch.
Are you sure this replacement engine has battery ignition? Some models with points have magneto ignition and others battery ignition with round external coil. Makes a difference on the ignition switch used.

A magneto ignition switch will not power battery ignition.
A battery ignition switch on magneto ignition results in costly fireworks.

Garry
 

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Basic is always good. Any advise on the location of the solinoid? Should it be as close to the starter as possible?
Not real critical. But close is always good. Just make sure you have a real clean ground and all your terminals are crimped tight.
 

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You could get a bearing plate, flywheel, and magneto from a Magnum 10-16 HP single and have a rock solid ignition system that would have twice as hot a spark as the battery system.

Joe
 

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Just Have a Little Faith!
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Discussion Starter #11
Good idea, Joe! I'm not going that route on this engine, but I'll remember that for the next one.
 

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Garden Tractor OCD guy
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I have a 71 Raider with the breakerless ignition, it has a pickup module on top of the flywheel and a wire from the pickup to the coil. It gets its power from the stator and the ignition switch simply grounds the coil to shut it off. it has no solenoid, the battery + goes to the ignition switch and the starter is also hooked to the ignition switch. It had, on the original switch, a battery, start, rectifier, accessory and ground terminal that had continuity to ground only with the key off and that is used to ground the coil. I purchased THIS SWITCH and it works perfectly, it has 2 hot accessory wires, I used one for the clutch and lights and the other for the rectifier, a ground to kill it and the battery and starter terminals. Works great!
 
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