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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have tried to do this myself and have watched many a video about it. I am trying to time/put in correct time my L model I started out with.
I tool loose what I think is called the 'coupling' behind magneto on that shaft going into mag. but there seems to be a couple of them ( I dont know proper names for this stuff but will try to get point across, have pix to ) but the square one with the bolt in it is where I'll start and is the one Im was talking about, well I loosened it and it spins, found TDC as can be seen in pic and if that aint TDC I dont know what could be as you can see it goes pretty high, almost looks like it could hit plug but it doesnt because I have heard it run a few times w/drill but stopped that.
But anyhow what my main qquestion is I guess is there is one video on you tube where the guy does it w/mag still on the tractor. I like the video because he talks plain speak and shows how to do it simply, dont know his name but his L is all fresh red exept for white on sides of fuel tank and on bottom of tank, has a oil bath air cleaner and he has a school bus sitting beside of a bldg in his yard.
But he tells about the dots and line on round piece right there t the mag and I can plainly see them but I thought he said something about lining those up with some other mark that I thought was on one of the round rings or couplers between the square one w/bolt and the one at the mag w/the dots and line. So where is those other marks to line them up with while the piston is at TDC on the stroke when its gonna go down and pull gas& air mix to be spark-lit, or I guess the combustion stroke.
And while Im here I have a paper from GT's that gives such info on plug gaps and stuff but it says for carb to turn 2 1/2 turns out w/ T handle for adj. Does it mean to close it then turn it out 2 1/2 turns to start then adj from there?
Thanks for any help in advance and I tried not to ask because I know ppl are getting tired of my questions on here but I thought this stuff would be easier than it is...for me anyway.
 

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Gerrard....no point being a member here if you can't ask for help...I don't think anyone is tired of anyone asking questions...I just don't know the answer...but as you know, we are lucky enough to have some Gravely gurus on here...someone will come along and be glad to help (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
UUUHH Kinda forgot something (my mind aint been right lately )
Pic #1- if that aint TDC I dont know what would be, I turned pen upside-down so it can bee seen how high it is.
Pic # 2- you can actually see top of piston if enlarged. So wev'e established TDC I hope.
Pic # 3- There is dots and line.
Pic # 4 & 5- where are marks that is supposed to line-up with the dots and line? Or is there a line on one of those "couplings" behind the Mag not counting the square one w/the bolt? Did I hear the guy wrong on the video?
Is it a fine-line that has been painted over and hard to see?
I guess what Im asking is is there something else that should be lined up w/dots and line? And if so what and where is it?
 

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I have not done timing yet but the main jet turn it in till it seats, over tightening can ruin it. then turn out 2.5 or 3.5 turns to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
^^^^^THIS^^^^^


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is it something like this whoever you are- "go get ^^^^^^?
If you got a problem with me put me on ignore or PM me, I will gladly talk to you one on one pal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think I got it.
Thanks for the carb help idiyaught, at least you know something about them.
 

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I guess what Im asking is is there something else that should be lined up w/dots and line? And if so what and where is it?
The line you're looking for is on the mag drive. That's the part of the mag which has two rectangular tabs sticking off it. The tabs go into slots in the fiber coupler.

In your pic 4 you have a close up of one of the tabs. The one with the paint coming off. I don't see a line on that one, so it must be the other one. There's not a real good pic of that one; I suggest you turn it so you can see it, scrape the paint off, and look for a fine line under the paint.

If the mag drive is too chewed up to find a line on either side, you can tell which side is supposed to have the line. Turn the mag by hand until you feel the impulse wind up. Keep turning it. When the tab is lined up with the two dots, you will feel the impulse trigger. That's the tab which should have the line on it.

The mag is timed by setting the line on the drive (the one discussed in the previous paragraphs) even with the line on the round cover around the drive (the line which is next to the two dots) when the piston is 5/16" BTDC.

The procedure is really very simple. You loosen the bolt in the rectangular coupler which is on the end of the camshaft. You want to be able to turn the coupler on the camshaft. Turn the piston to 5/16" BTDC, on the compression stroke. (If you aren't sure which is the compression stroke, put the plug back in. Turn the crank until you can feel the compression. Then take the plug back out) With the piston at 5/16" BTDC, turn the coupler until the lines on the mag line up, IOW the line on the drive matches the line on the cover. Without moving anything else, tighten up the bolt on the rectangular steel coupler. Turn it all over a couple turns, and make sure the piston at 5/16" BTDC on the compression stroke still causes the lines on the mag to line up. That's all there is to it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks, someone painted over that line. I cant say I wouldnt have unknowlingy but I didnt because I was beat to it by PO. But I can turn the rectangular coupler till it gets hard as heck when its about to snap I guess, I like to never got that bolt loose and it took 2 days. You kinda freaked me out when you said "fiber coupler" because I had to put heat on that bolt to get it to budge w/o breaking it and I didnt wanna do that but when I was applying heat I said to myself " man I hope there isnt anything in here that could be messed up by this" but all seems well because I used one of those mini-butane torches that you can dial to a fine point and I didnt get anything real hot anyway. But I didnt even wanna break that bolt as I had to remove the paint on the threads and almost felt bolt head turn and threads sticking out of it didnt move so I then thot I gotta take it easy and do something because if I woulda broke that bolt on rect. coupler I would had to plant flowers in that thing and rolled it into the front yard.
Thanks so much you answered my question, and I recon I can put my thumb in plug hole and feel if its the comp stroke if need be.
Thanks again, I'll try to do the rest myself. I should be able to because like I said Ive heard it run 5 or 6 times and just thot it needed timed because both times I pulled the strap it about tore a finger or two off.
And might just make a good rope w/a knot because I wasnt very impressed w/that new strap not to mention that nub on start pulley aint much either.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
It is kinda telling how the paint happens to be scratched off that one tab, kinda like someone else was looking for it to.
A possibility I guess...
 

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Am I supposed to know what ' this' means or something? I was kinda looking for sensible answers
It was only meant to reassure you of what MARK said in his post above mine. Everyone here is willing to help, including me, if I could. It’s why these forums exist. I didn’t mean to trigger you.


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---I was typing my reply offline (our internet service is not very good here). Once I was able to log back on, I saw that ultane did have a chance to respond but I am leaving my response 'as I had written'!--

Gerrard,

Relax! Ultane was simply saying that he agreed to the previous post about welcoming you to ask questions. There are a LOT of individuals here that are on your team and want you to succeed with each and every thing you do.

There are a plethora of accepted methodologies for setting the timing on these fine machines… some I find to be overly complex (why would one need to remove the cylinder head, as the official Gravely manual states?) while others are much simpler – those I read on here, like using a wooden dowel (or an ink pen!). I tried it with using a dial indicator but that was probably like using a micrometer to measure an anvil.

Oftentimes in the past, I found myself having to remove a Fairbanks Morse magneto in the ‘field’ so setting the timing became rather straightforward. The directions listed in many of the older owner’s manuals listed the directions for both the Fairbanks Morse and the Wico magnetos.

I know that I have not addressed any of your questions... though I am happy to see you getting interested again in these projects!
 

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You kinda freaked me out when you said "fiber coupler"
The coupler is actually two pieces. Or if you'd like to think about it as two couplers, that's fine too. The rectagular one with the bolt is steel, the round one with the slots is micarta (fiber). In your last three pix you can clearly see both sections.

One other thing to note: Once you've got the timing set, and are going to tighten down the bolt on the steel coupler, put something the thickness of a playing card between the fiber coupler and the mag. You want a small space in there, so the fiber coupler has room to move.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
It was only meant to reassure you of what MARK said in his post above mine. Everyone here is willing to help, including me, if I could. It’s why these forums exist. I didn’t mean to trigger you.


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Well if thats the case I sincerely apoligize but I just thought it was kinda strange esp coupled with a cpl things I was hinting about. Sorry.
But next time maybe you can try to be a little more 'complete' with an answer or reply Im not a mind reader.
I still dont understand it but we'll let it go.
No harm no foul
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
---I was typing my reply offline (our internet service is not very good here). Once I was able to log back on, I saw that ultane did have a chance to respond but I am leaving my response 'as I had written'!--

Gerrard,

Relax! Ultane was simply saying that he agreed to the previous post about welcoming you to ask questions. There are a LOT of individuals here that are on your team and want you to succeed with each and every thing you do.

There are a plethora of accepted methodologies for setting the timing on these fine machines… some I find to be overly complex (why would one need to remove the cylinder head, as the official Gravely manual states?) while others are much simpler – those I read on here, like using a wooden dowel (or an ink pen!). I tried it with using a dial indicator but that was probably like using a micrometer to measure an anvil.

Oftentimes in the past, I found myself having to remove a Fairbanks Morse magneto in the ‘field’ so setting the timing became rather straightforward. The directions listed in many of the older owner’s manuals listed the directions for both the Fairbanks Morse and the Wico magnetos.

I know that I have not addressed any of your questions... though I am happy to see you getting interested again in these projects!
Greetings Fireant, but lets get one minor issue out of the way, how in Gods name am I supposed to know what a bunch of marks and a word is supposed to mean? And how did you figure it out? I guess I must be way way behind in times because I dont get it yet. But lets drop it like a dirty pair of shorts shall we lol.
"Tween" my friggin rotting liver I gotta have transplanted and taking 140 mgs. of 'pee-pills' and not working plus the Gummitt screwed up my $1,400 stim check I need to live on ( aint got it yet, been on phone and computer for a week) Im a wreck! Sorry you had to hear all of that crap lol!
But anyhoo like they used to say ( I always thot it was stupid BTW) I put that ink pen in there for the pic to show how high that piston went up, it almost looks like it would hit the plug but doesnt because Ive heard it run, and I wish I could post that video I made of it running but I have tried and tried and just cant but I sent it to my son via text message and that worked for what its worth. I guess from where I polished inside of carb , intake, exhaust and 'touch-up grind' valves it sounds more like a motorcycle than a Gravely lol! I aint kidding.
But Im gonna try the timing and carb adj and call my son to come over and see if it will start because if I would pull it right now Id be on my way to ER and if it starts we'll slap the deck on and take it to his house and get it outta here finally and if it wont start its goin to the shop because I have no other alternative at this point because of all that is going on, but if all was well I couldnt do anything else to it because Ive done all I can do for certain.
Later Buddy!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
The coupler is actually two pieces. Or if you'd like to think about it as two couplers, that's fine too. The rectagular one with the bolt is steel, the round one with the slots is micarta (fiber). In your last three pix you can clearly see both sections.

One other thing to note: Once you've got the timing set, and are going to tighten down the bolt on the steel coupler, put something the thickness of a playing card between the fiber coupler and the mag. You want a small space in there, so the fiber coupler has room to move.
OK will do, and I can tell not counting the rect one there is two more being the one w/o the dots and the one with that looks like it goes inside of the mag.
Micarta huh? Wow I know what that stuff is didnt know its been around that long. I have knife handles and handgun grips made of that stuff.
 

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OK will do, and I can tell not counting the rect one there is two more being the one w/o the dots and the one with that looks like it goes inside of the mag.
Let's try to be clear on terminology. There are two parts to the coupler, a steel part and a fiber part. There's the round mag drive, which has two tabs which fit into slots in the fiber coupler. And there's the cover plate around the mag drive. The timing marks are on the drive (on one of the tabs) and the cover plate (the line and the two dots).

Here's one of your pics with labels added.

2501751-1eb03713e449eade06d072f6629a302f.png


The timing procedure outlined above has the goal of getting the timing marks lined up (the lines, not the dots) when the piston is at 5/16" BTDC on the compression stroke. You're loosening the steel coupler, then turning it, the fiber part and the mag drive, to get the alignment you want against the cover plate.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Got it, and thanks for the picture & info on it it will come in handy.
Gonna go out there as soon as it stops raining, my carport where I mess w/stuff is just that and has no sides on it but I want to put sides on but the price of metal roofing is crazy now and thats all it is as far as Ive seen in a horizontal application.
Before the pandemic I was paying $2 + change for 2x4's and the other day at home peepot they was $ 8+ change, needless to say I didnt get any.
 
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