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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Looking for ideas / pics of how others have added weight to the 3 pt hitch.
Figure I`ll need some counter balance for the snowcaster as it won`t be running in the down or float position due to a gravel drive. Obviously there are multiple ways to hang a weight back there, just hoping to see some ideas rather than start with a clean sheet of paper.
Concepts with minimal welding are best, because I`d need to farm that out.

Thanks
 

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I'll start.

Problem 1.

3 pt and mid-mount lift are T'eed together.

Solution. Install a selector valve

Problem 2.

Figuring out the correct amount of weight to put on the 3 pt.

Solution:

Make large box out of plywood. Fasten length of 5/8" round rod to underside of box and install it on hitch. Put a piece of 3/4" plywood vertically on either side of box with 3/4" holes in them so that another piece of 5/8" rod can go through them and the top link. Now the box is fully mounted to the hitch. Add weight until front wheels begin to lift off the ground. Remove just enough weight to put wheels back on ground. Remove weights and weigh them on bathroom scale. Tally total weight including that of box and rods.

Put weight box back on and install all weights except for 50 pounds of it. Try lifting front of tractor to see how much weight is actually on front tires. Play with this until you are happy.

You can then make a suitable wood form to pour concrete into. Put opposing 5/8" holes in the box a couple inches up from the bottom but in the center of the box so you can slide the correct length of 5/8" rod through those holes. Taper the ends a bit and drill holes for the lynch pins. Two short lengths of flatbar with 5/8" holes in them can be inserted deep in the fresh concrete just after pouring. Put a spacer between the very upper part of the flatbars and squeeze it all together with a nut and bolt to hold the alignment. The flatbars can be bent slightly at the lower end to anchor them into the concrete.

No welding involved. Low cost. Easy to put on and take off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I`m sure that I will regret this shortly, but here goes.

If I bolt steel weight within the triangle of my F27 sleeve hitch adapter and if no portion of the 3pt assembly touches the ground in the "down" position, I would not have any need to to install a selector valve to divorce the mid lift operation from the 3 point cylinder. Yes it would raise and lower with the snowcaster out front, but I can`t see any harm in that. What am I missing ?

Keep in mind, I have never had nor used a 3 pt and this 4020PS will not be delivered until Saturday. Ergo, I`m doing my thinking (such as it is) "blind"

Thanks. ( flame retardant suit in place and secure) LOL
 

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My Orange Jane Deere
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When I need weight on the back, I just get the fat lady from next door to stand on the back. :sidelaugh


The only draw back is than I have to feed her. :thThumbsU
 

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If it were me I would want the selector valve, but that's just me. I doubt it could be that difficult/expensive to install.

What do you need weight on the 3 pt for? Have you thought of fluid filling your tires?
 

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When I need weight on the back, I just get the fat lady from next door to stand on the back. :sidelaugh


The only draw back is than I have to feed her. :thThumbsU
If all you have to do is feed her, than that's tolerable. It's when you have to provide those "extra services" that it can get real ugly, real fast. :Stop::Stop:
 

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I`m sure that I will regret this shortly, but here goes.

If I bolt steel weight within the triangle of my F27 sleeve hitch adapter and if no portion of the 3pt assembly touches the ground in the "down" position, I would not have any need to to install a selector valve to divorce the mid lift operation from the 3 point cylinder. Yes it would raise and lower with the snowcaster out front, but I can`t see any harm in that. What am I missing ?

Keep in mind, I have never had nor used a 3 pt and this 4020PS will not be delivered until Saturday. Ergo, I`m doing my thinking (such as it is) "blind"

Thanks. ( flame retardant suit in place and secure) LOL
No flames from me, dude.

Oil is lazy. It will always take the easy way out. So if your caster is on the ground and the three point is on the ground, the oil will go to the cylinder that has the LEAST amount of weight to lift. It will lift that weight all the way up until the cylinder tops out and then it will go lift the other one So, that's a big negative because of the wait time involved. Within 15 minutes , you will get off your tractor, walk in the house and ask your wife to kick your butt.

The second problem is that the rear weight may touch the ground while plowing, depending on the grades being negotiated. The selector valve solves all these problem because it gives you independent control for what's happening out back and in the middle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If it were me I would want the selector valve, but that's just me. I doubt it could be that difficult/expensive to install.

What do you need weight on the 3 pt for? Have you thought of fluid filling your tires?
Given that this unit already has P/S and 3 pt and a FCV, the idea of adding yet more plumbing is intimidating this beginner

Even with rear wheel weights I figured (assumed?) that a snowcaster cantelevered out front would take away from rear traction.

The Rim-Guard option is probably the easiest AND cheapest weight solution. Good idea.
 

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I called a local tractor dealer about putting Rim Guard in my rear tires about a month ago. He quoted me a minimum of $150 to fill both rear tires.

I bought 20 jugs of WW fluid for $40 bucks and filled both of my rear tires with a piece of vacuum line and my air compressor in an hour. I probably could have squeezed in another gallon or so, but at that point I could barely pick the tires up an inch to mount them back on the tractor.

That will give you 180lbs right on your rear tires right where you want the traction for $40.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No flames from me, dude.

Oil is lazy. It will always take the easy way out. So if your caster is on the ground and the three point is on the ground, the oil will go to the cylinder that has the LEAST amount of weight to lift. It will lift that weight all the way up until the cylinder tops out and then it will go lift the other one So, that's a big negative because of the wait time involved. Within 15 minutes , you will get off your tractor, walk in the house and ask your wife to kick your butt.

The second problem is that the rear weight may touch the ground while plowing, depending on the grades being negotiated. The selector valve solves all these problem because it gives you independent control for what's happening out back and in the middle.

"Oil is lazy"LOL. That would have never occured to me, I assumed that both cylinders would have operated in tandem. And much like oil, I am also lazy and was looking for the easy way out. As always, THANKS !

If traction proves a problem with the factory weights, I`ll pop over to the "Big tractor" dealer and spend $60 on Rim-Guard
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I called a local tractor dealer about putting Rim Guard in my rear tires about a month ago. He quoted me a minimum of $150 to fill both rear tires.

I bought 20 jugs of WW fluid
Local dealer here is $3 a gallon installed, looks like I should jump on that.
 

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Given that this unit already has P/S and 3 pt and a FCV, the idea of adding yet more plumbing is intimidating this beginner

Even with rear wheel weights I figured (assumed?) that a snowcaster cantelevered out front would take away from rear traction.

The Rim-Guard option is probably the easiest AND cheapest weight solution. Good idea.
The plumbing is remarkably simple.

You need a 3 port valve and 3 new 1/4" hydraulic hoses.

In a nutshell, all you are doing is removing two existing hoses and saving them for posterity. LOL

One new hose then goes between the IN port of the selector valve and the port on the lift valve under the tractor where you just removed two hoses plus the Tee fitting from.

The selector has two more ports and one of those goes to the bottom of the mid-lift cylinder and the other goes to the bottom of the 3 pt cylinder.

Guess what.....you're done except for zip ties to keep hose up out of the way and then checking for leaks.

Deciding the most convenient spot for the valve is important. You don't want it to interfere with anything else, including getting on and off .

The beet juice is a good idea, now that the price of it has become far more reasonable. If you are not going to use chains, then the counter-weight is a good idea but hard-packed snow and ice will challenge any naked tires. Rubber chains are pricey but available.

It's also possible to make your own wheel weights.
 

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Local dealer here is $3 a gallon installed, looks like I should jump on that.
Did you tell them what they were installing it in? When I called my local rim guard dealer the initial quote was $3 a gallon. They were assuming I was going to be filling a large tractor tire which has 2 holes in the rim. That second hole is made for fluid filling tires and makes it very quick. He told me that when they had to pump it through the valve stem they had to charge whatever shop time it took them to pump it and said it would take at least an hour.

Just something you might want to look into a little further before you rule out doing it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Castoff
Have chains, I consider them essential with turfs. Have the factory weights for the 4020PS. Made my own weights for my 446 and with a blade it plows just skippy. It`s the idea of the caster "suspended" (remember, gravel drive) out front that makes me think "more" might be good.
When I was a kid we used a Cub with a VERY heavy two stage hanging WAY out there (one of the negatives of 2 stage is length/weight) and it required a butt load of ballast
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Did you tell them what they were installing it in? When I called my local rim guard dealer the initial quote was $3 a gallon. They were assuming I was going to be filling a large tractor tire which has 2 holes in the rim. That second hole is made for fluid filling tires and makes it very quick. He told me that when they had to pump it through the valve stem they had to charge whatever shop time it took them to pump it and said it would take at least an hour.

Just something you might want to look into a little further before you rule out doing it yourself.
Good suggestion
I told the guy " garden tractor, 10 gallons each" I guess he might try to upsell when I arrived. I guess the simple solution would be a 7/16 drill bit and a second valve stem. 5/8ths if you want the "manly" truck stem.
 

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Some people dismiss the single stage units out of hand and won't settle for anything but a 2 stage. However, the two 2-stage issues you mentioned are the reasons why Case dropped the 2 stage and went with the single stage for the past 44 years. Pretty hard to argue against that track-record.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Some people dismiss the single stage units out of hand and won't settle for anything but a 2 stage. However, the two 2-stage issues you mentioned are the reasons why Case dropped the 2 stage and went with the single stage for the past 44 years. Pretty hard to argue against that track-record.

If the snow gets wet/heavy enough, ANY unit will struggle, have a high quality 2 stage walk-behind. In extreme melting conditions it will only throw the "snow cone slush" a few feet, but.. it never stops and I`M NOT SHOVELING !
Doesn`t matter to me one whit if it throws it 6 feet or 60, when I`ve made the required number of passes the drive is clear
 
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