well the hood looks pretty good and the grill as well, that being said thats about 250-300 right there depending on condition of hood. If the motor is not froze id off no more than 800 in that shape. Thats what i paid for mine didn't run but i did get it to fire and it runs good. Nice looking tractor.
Idea of good offering price for an 8N?
Hey everyone - back from the dead. I sold the 9N last year because I rarely used it, having found a way to use my Cummins truck to haul firewood up the hill.
A buddy bought a farm up the road and offered an old barn as a place to store the Cummins out of the winter weather.....and guess what was in the barn?
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
yep - an 8N. It's all there and appears to be all original. 2 plugs are pulled, the air intake from the filter is disconnected at the carb, and the wires are missing, but it's got decent oil and good coolant. No idea if it runs or how long it has been sitting, I assume it needs help, but I hate to see it sit any longer. Through a complex arrangement, the tractor did not come with the farm. The PO says a brother in law wants it etc but my buddy who is the go between says the PO is not against selling it. I don't want to go above $1k, it could be a boat anchor mechanically (bad compression or whatever) and I'm taking a lot of risk. What do you guys think?
Thanks
Joe
A buddy bought a farm up the road and offered an old barn as a place to store the Cummins out of the winter weather.....and guess what was in the barn?
yep - an 8N. It's all there and appears to be all original. 2 plugs are pulled, the air intake from the filter is disconnected at the carb, and the wires are missing, but it's got decent oil and good coolant. No idea if it runs or how long it has been sitting, I assume it needs help, but I hate to see it sit any longer. Through a complex arrangement, the tractor did not come with the farm. The PO says a brother in law wants it etc but my buddy who is the go between says the PO is not against selling it. I don't want to go above $1k, it could be a boat anchor mechanically (bad compression or whatever) and I'm taking a lot of risk. What do you guys think?
Thanks
Joe
4
1 - 20 of 65 Posts
Some guys have all the luck. only thing my property purchases come with are bills!!.
That 8N looks like a diamond in the rough. All there and all original. Very nice lookin project tractor. If it aint locked up and the block aint cracked it would make a very good restoration candidate. If nothin else it'll salvage out for some good coin. the lights alone could bring in >$100. as for price ?? who knows what they want for it.
That 8N looks like a diamond in the rough. All there and all original. Very nice lookin project tractor. If it aint locked up and the block aint cracked it would make a very good restoration candidate. If nothin else it'll salvage out for some good coin. the lights alone could bring in >$100. as for price ?? who knows what they want for it.
$500 is about the standard price for a non runner.
That said it looks like a '48 or early '49.
Both Brake seals leak.
PTO seal leaks.
Steering box leaks.
Is the engine free? One complete turn with compression.
If it has been sitting for more than a few years it could have the engine locked up from rings or sticky valves.
Check the engine for cracks in the typical locations.
I see the clutch is not blocked down which means it could have a stuck clutch.
I would check the engine & clutch before making an offer.
Wiring and carb rebuild and gas tank may aslo need attention.
Good news is the tin don't look all rusted out and other then the battery appears to be a complete tractor. Also the tires look Ok but may appear better in photos.
The non original bumper is nice.
Kirk
That said it looks like a '48 or early '49.
Both Brake seals leak.
PTO seal leaks.
Steering box leaks.
Is the engine free? One complete turn with compression.
If it has been sitting for more than a few years it could have the engine locked up from rings or sticky valves.
Check the engine for cracks in the typical locations.
I see the clutch is not blocked down which means it could have a stuck clutch.
I would check the engine & clutch before making an offer.
Wiring and carb rebuild and gas tank may aslo need attention.
Good news is the tin don't look all rusted out and other then the battery appears to be a complete tractor. Also the tires look Ok but may appear better in photos.
The non original bumper is nice.
Kirk
Are you sure its a non runner? Only reason I ask is that battery cable appears to be new so if you or you buddy didn't do it someone else had been fooling with it before the land was sold.
I bought a running 8n with most of the same leak problems you have and much worse tires for $600 back in June.
I bought a running 8n with most of the same leak problems you have and much worse tires for $600 back in June.
Thanks for all of the replies and advice guys. There are some questions in this one that I would like to reply to directly.$500 is about the standard price for a non runner.
That said it looks like a '48 or early '49.
Both Brake seals leak.
PTO seal leaks.
Steering box leaks.
Is the engine free? One complete turn with compression.
If it has been sitting for more than a few years it could have the engine locked up from rings or sticky valves.
Check the engine for cracks in the typical locations.
I see the clutch is not blocked down which means it could have a stuck clutch.
I would check the engine & clutch before making an offer.
Wiring and carb rebuild and gas tank may aslo need attention.
Good news is the tin don't look all rusted out and other then the battery appears to be a complete tractor. Also the tires look Ok but may appear better in photos.
The non original bumper is nice.
Kirk
What are the typical locations for cracks and would they affect the water jacket? The rad and oil are full and clean (no migration).
What size wrench do I need to turn the engine? The farm is empty, I can play with it as much as I want before making a decision. I might throw some Marvel or Kroil in the cylinders before trying to turn it over.
What does blocked down mean? Having the clutch pedal positioned so the pressure plate etc don't fuse together?
I'm sure it will need a carb rebuild. I did that on my 9N at the shop (PO used the wrong rebuild kit) with no issues.
PTO shaft has no play in the bearings.
Tires have some cracking and age to them.
It's currently stuck in the mud. I tried to use a winch to break it loose but there was nothing other than the Cummins to use as an anchor and it's front facing with no tow hooks.
I just now recalled there were two of these 8N's in the barns a year or two ago, a buddy's kid was living there and watching the place for the PPO, who lived out of town. He used the other one to plow the lane. That one is gone. That same buddy works with me and I just asked him whether he checked the one I'm looking at and he said they made sure everything was free in the engine and clutch department but it wasn't getting spark so they used the other one.
The battery cable and pulled plugs weren't his doing so someone else must have been messing with it and failed.
If he's right (and he should be, the other tractor had a bushhog and a plow on it so they were easy to tell apart) then I think it's less of a risk. I still want to turn the engine by hand and break it loose to roll it.
Regarding price, my friend who owns the farm is working with the PO whenever he sees him. He established that the PO would sell it and threw out an offer of $300 rather than having me call him directly. I thought that was a little low but it was done. The PO responded that he had seen one go at auction for $900 but he didn't really expect to get that for it. I've floated $500 to $700 as my range and I don't know if it has been discussed. I should find out this weekend when I meet my friend and see if he has heard anything back.
I REALLY like the unrestored aged look of the old girl and the fact that everything is there and not rusted out. There is a little toolbox in behind the gauge panel, which is kind of cool.
I guess we'll see how it goes. Thanks again.
well if you get it id would check the hood real well mine looked solid till i took it off how ever it had stared rusting in couple usual spots, and the gas tanks bolts were rotted to where i had to cut them out.Thanks for all of the replies and advice guys. There are some questions in this one that I would like to reply to directly.
What are the typical locations for cracks and would they affect the water jacket? The rad and oil are full and clean (no migration).
What size wrench do I need to turn the engine? The farm is empty, I can play with it as much as I want before making a decision. I might throw some Marvel or Kroil in the cylinders before trying to turn it over.
What does blocked down mean? Having the clutch pedal positioned so the pressure plate etc don't fuse together?
I'm sure it will need a carb rebuild. I did that on my 9N at the shop (PO used the wrong rebuild kit) with no issues.
PTO shaft has no play in the bearings.
Tires have some cracking and age to them.
It's currently stuck in the mud. I tried to use a winch to break it loose but there was nothing other than the Cummins to use as an anchor and it's front facing with no tow hooks.
I just now recalled there were two of these 8N's in the barns a year or two ago, a buddy's kid was living there and watching the place for the PPO, who lived out of town. He used the other one to plow the lane. That one is gone. That same buddy works with me and I just asked him whether he checked the one I'm looking at and he said they made sure everything was free in the engine and clutch department but it wasn't getting spark so they used the other one.
The battery cable and pulled plugs weren't his doing so someone else must have been messing with it and failed.
If he's right (and he should be, the other tractor had a bushhog and a plow on it so they were easy to tell apart) then I think it's less of a risk. I still want to turn the engine by hand and break it loose to roll it.
Regarding price, my friend who owns the farm is working with the PO whenever he sees him. He established that the PO would sell it and threw out an offer of $300 rather than having me call him directly. I thought that was a little low but it was done. The PO responded that he had seen one go at auction for $900 but he didn't really expect to get that for it. I've floated $500 to $700 as my range and I don't know if it has been discussed. I should find out this weekend when I meet my friend and see if he has heard anything back.
I REALLY like the unrestored aged look of the old girl and the fact that everything is there and not rusted out. There is a little toolbox in behind the gauge panel, which is kind of cool.
I guess we'll see how it goes. Thanks again.
Could anyone tell me the size of the bolt on the crankshaft pulley so I can turn the motor over by hand? The barn is back a long lane behind a fence so I want to carry as little as possible.
TIA
Joe
TIA
Joe
1 5/16" or hand crank or grab with hand on belt and try to rotate. You should rotate thru the compression and exhaust stoke to ensure the valves are free although they could be stuck in the up postion. You would have to do a compression test to comfirm any stuck open valves. It rotation of engine by hand you should also feel compression resistants.
Typical engine cracks are located behind the oil filter below the flat spot with the serial #, freeze plug, and drain petcock.
Block down the clutch pedal with a piece of 2x4 wood.
To check clutch; with cutch pedal out put in neutral grab and roll rear tire, Then with clutch pedal still out put in gear and grab and roll rear tire. Then with clutch depressed repeat process in neutral and in gear. All tires should be aired up.
If you floated $500/$700 to owner you can bet the owner will want the $700. Once they get the higher figure in their mind it's hard to unstick that number no matter what the condition of the tractor.
IMO it's better to confirm a number. I myself do not work on tractors I don't own. BTDT and have had tractors sold out from under me because I was "nice enough" or maybe stupid enough to get them running without having a bill of sale in my hand. A running tractor is always worth more then a non runner.
The last "ran when parked" I bought about a month ago. I bought a carb, temp gas tank, coil and 12 volt battery and some jumper wires with me. After comfirming the deal I bypassed the electrical system, polished the points and drove it onto the trailer. PO stood there in amazement wondering how I did that and said if I knew it was that easy to get running I would have asked more money for it.
Kirk
Typical engine cracks are located behind the oil filter below the flat spot with the serial #, freeze plug, and drain petcock.
Block down the clutch pedal with a piece of 2x4 wood.
To check clutch; with cutch pedal out put in neutral grab and roll rear tire, Then with clutch pedal still out put in gear and grab and roll rear tire. Then with clutch depressed repeat process in neutral and in gear. All tires should be aired up.
If you floated $500/$700 to owner you can bet the owner will want the $700. Once they get the higher figure in their mind it's hard to unstick that number no matter what the condition of the tractor.
IMO it's better to confirm a number. I myself do not work on tractors I don't own. BTDT and have had tractors sold out from under me because I was "nice enough" or maybe stupid enough to get them running without having a bill of sale in my hand. A running tractor is always worth more then a non runner.
The last "ran when parked" I bought about a month ago. I bought a carb, temp gas tank, coil and 12 volt battery and some jumper wires with me. After comfirming the deal I bypassed the electrical system, polished the points and drove it onto the trailer. PO stood there in amazement wondering how I did that and said if I knew it was that easy to get running I would have asked more money for it.
Kirk
Thanks for the detailed reply. I tried to check the S/N already and it was illegible, there were no cracks in the area and none by the petcock immediately below that I recall seeing, but I will look again in more detail.1 5/16" or hand crank or grab with hand on belt and try to rotate. You should rotate thru the compression and exhaust stoke to ensure the valves are free although they could be stuck in the up postion. You would have to do a compression test to comfirm any stuck open valves. It rotation of engine by hand you should also feel compression resistants.
Typical engine cracks are located behind the oil filter below the flat spot with the serial #, freeze plug, and drain petcock.
Block down the clutch pedal with a piece of 2x4 wood.
To check clutch; with cutch pedal out put in neutral grab and roll rear tire, Then with clutch pedal still out put in gear and grab and roll rear tire. Then with clutch depressed repeat process in neutral and in gear. All tires should be aired up.
If you floated $500/$700 to owner you can bet the owner will want the $700. Once they get the higher figure in their mind it's hard to unstick that number no matter what the condition of the tractor.
IMO it's better to confirm a number. I myself do not work on tractors I don't own. BTDT and have had tractors sold out from under me because I was "nice enough" or maybe stupid enough to get them running without having a bill of sale in my hand. A running tractor is always worth more then a non runner.
The last "ran when parked" I bought about a month ago. I bought a carb, temp gas tank, coil and 12 volt battery and some jumper wires with me. After comfirming the deal I bypassed the electrical system, polished the points and drove it onto the trailer. PO stood there in amazement wondering how I did that and said if I knew it was that easy to get running I would have asked more money for it.
Kirk
Once I get it unstuck from the mud, I should be able to do the roll test. I have the Cummins in the same bay of the barn, I'll just have to reinstall the battery and fire it up. Worst case, I'll have to take down the barricade I built over the open end of the barn to protect the truck from the elements and turn it around to use granny first gear and a strap on the 8N. That will free it.
The shifter seems to be ok at least on the right side of the pattern, the pattern is different than the 9N from what I can tell, there is too much dirt on the tranny to see any numbers.
I'll come up with a wrench somewhere, I about lost a finger in a belt on a Corvette turning it over by hand setting timing and valves from scratch for a friend but that's a long story.
Since this farm is essentially abandoned (bought for the land, the house and majority of the barns are worthless), I can work on the tractor without anyone knowing what I'm doing. I don't plan on getting it running, there is no key available and I don't want to do a lot of throwing sparks in there. I just want to assure myself nothing is locked up or terminal on it before proceeding.
My friend doing the negotiating is fairly shrewd, having a business of his own buying and reselling used equipment. When I give him a range of $500 to $700, he'll start at $500 and keep $700 as a fallback.
I've bought 2 or 3 cars that "didn't run", knowing the problems weren't as bad as they seemed, and drove them away an hour or two later. I know that "if I had known THAT was all it needed" look. Point is, they didn't know or were too lazy or didn't care to figure it out, so that's the penalty for not caring enough to figure it out.
I appreciate all the advice and input. I missed the 9N after I let it go, it was more useful than I thought. Plus, I just have problems letting an interesting vehicle sit somewhere and deteriorate, especially something that is complete and original.
I should know by the end of the weekend.
Thanks
Behind the starter will be an embossed 8N above that will be a production date code held on with 2 small revits. Some will have been eaten up by battery acid. This tractor is either a '48 or early '49. You will enjoy the inprovement on the 8n over the 9n.
Kirk
Kirk
OK, I'll look for that too. I hear/read the 8N is much improved over the 9N, I never really got used to the brake pedal arrangement on the 9N, but fortunately I pull loads of firewood UP a hill and always came back down with an empty trailer.Behind the starter will be an embossed 8N above that will be a production date code held on with 2 small revits. Some will have been eaten up by battery acid. This tractor is either a '48 or early '49. You will enjoy the inprovement on the 8n over the 9n.
Kirk
Thanks.
Looks like your in good hands. And I know your like me and need another project. ( My preference: I like the 8Ns better then the 9 or 2Ns)
Sure hope you save it!:fing32:
Yes, I just sold off my VW bus project and I need something else to do. I really don't have the room to do a serious "split the tractor in half" type of project so it's important that nothing terminal is wrong with it.Looks like your in good hands. And I know your like me and need another project. ( My preference: I like the 8Ns better then the 9 or 2Ns)
Me too. It's hard for me to see something like that just sit and rot away, it's just down the road and I pass the farm every day.Sure hope you save it!:fing32:
We're supposed to go out to dinner with the guy who owns the farm, hopefully he has talked to the guy who owns the tractor and has an answer for me.
Good luck with your project. If you can get that tractor for $500 to $700 I would think you have a good deal. I know around here a running 8N is somewhat good shape will bring $1500 on up. So you would have some room to invest a few dollars in it. Have fun with it and hope you get it.
Well, it appears she's a boat anchor. Both hands on the drive belt with everything I can bring to the party and it won't budge at all. It feels and appears to be in neutral so it's not in gear. Something is locked up.
I'll have to talk to my buddy at work who said it rolled and turned over. No rolling or turning that I can see.
Pretty disappointing. To add insult to injury, I was trying to get the Cummins out to put it in the vacant garage attached to the house, with thoughts of maybe using it to pull the 8N a little and see whether it would free up. I neglected to realize there is 6" of wet mud under the pasture I had to back over. Went a half truck length and sunk. Just got finished using a hand hoist and a series of chains to winch the truck back into the barn.
Oh well, time to watch some football. Thanks for the input and advice, guys.
I'll have to talk to my buddy at work who said it rolled and turned over. No rolling or turning that I can see.
Pretty disappointing. To add insult to injury, I was trying to get the Cummins out to put it in the vacant garage attached to the house, with thoughts of maybe using it to pull the 8N a little and see whether it would free up. I neglected to realize there is 6" of wet mud under the pasture I had to back over. Went a half truck length and sunk. Just got finished using a hand hoist and a series of chains to winch the truck back into the barn.
Oh well, time to watch some football. Thanks for the input and advice, guys.
The plate above the 8N was there and in good condition, it read 8258. I think the engine s/s was something like N97574.Behind the starter will be an embossed 8N above that will be a production date code held on with 2 small revits. Some will have been eaten up by battery acid. This tractor is either a '48 or early '49. You will enjoy the inprovement on the 8n over the 9n.
Kirk
I'd still buy it for the right price...
1 - 20 of 65 Posts
- This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
My Tractor Forum
A family friendly forum community dedicated to all Tractor owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about specifications, modifications, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
