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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a cub cadet i1050 that has recently had issues starting. I push in the pedal and it seems to catch and the I have to push down harder on the pedal to get it so start. The started is cliking when the key is turned. I got it to turn over when I jump started it.
I had been using the tractor with a lot of turning it on and off while hauling material. It became progressinely more difficult to get it started. Is it possible for the switch that the pedal engages, under the engine, to have gone bad?

Thanks
 

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as you were able to do better by jumping the starter, would chk the battery (both load test and hydrometer) and thoroughly clean all connections in the batt to starter circuit, including the chassis ground connections.
 

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Tech Nerd Tractor Convert
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powerman,

If the starter clicks when you turn the key, then your problem is probably not the brake pedal. If the brake pedal cutoff switch is not being activated, you won't even get a click on the starter.. you'll get silence.

Also just to rule this out, make sure the PTO switch is pushed in. If it's out, the tractor won't start.

The most likely cause of your issue I think is battery health. If it is an older battery, it may not have enough capacity anymore to turn the engine over. Since you say it starts better when jumped, this also supports this theory.

Or it could also be the battery connections. Perhaps remove the cables, clean the posts and cable terminals, and reconnect, then try again. Be careful not to short across the battery terminals (watch out with metal tools, remove all rings and jewelry, etc).

I have a 2007 model i1050 and by 2010 the factory battery had grown weak. Even with a "full" charge (full voltage) it did not store much energy and I would have trouble starting. It would turn the engine maybe 1/2 revolution and stop.. after 3 or 4 turns of the key sometimes it would start and sometimes I would have to wait 5 minutes and try again.

This might be what is making you think pushing the brake pedal down further is helping -- it is probably not related to the pedal but is just that the second crank has a better chance of catching than the first. This is because the first crank moved the engine from some random position up to the top of a compression stroke before stopping due to resistance (and insufficient battery current) and then the second crank gets more of a running start by having more angular distance to spin (and thus higher speed) without meeting the resistance of the next compression stroke.

I bought a trickle charger to keep my original battery always topped off and this helped, but did not solve the problem completely. So I bought a new battery and this problem was solved.

Do you have access to any other 12v batteries you can swap in temporarily to see if this solves the problem without having to buy a new battery? Or if you know your current battery is at least 3 years old, it's probably time for a new one anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Gentlemen--Thanks for the answer, one of those simple things that I tend to overlook---I will check out the battery and see what happens--
 

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Whats really sad is how quickly the cheap OEM batteries die in these things.....

yet in my kubota 2710 tractor with loader and rear 3 point, stock battery is still strong 11 year after the purchase, and that's starting a high compression diesel that only gets used once a month.......me thinks that it's more the wimpy charging circuit on our i1050 series. I sure wouldn't use it to jump start a car, yet no problem with my Kubota.
 

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forkz
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i have a cub z force 06 model still running oem battery no problems yet
 
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