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Discussion Starter #1
Where can I get the anodes??? I am thinking about going big, big enuff to put a 4' scrapper blade in it.:thThumbsU Any Idea's or have I gotten into Grannies happy juiice again??:trink40:
 

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rebar....even cruddy bent up ones will work just fine, weld together if you need to...
and old discarded hot tub makes a great tank...
 

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I have used an e-tank for many years with good success. There are many concoctions and advice on building an e-tank so stick with the basics. The tank must be non conductive like plastic or fiberglass. Electrolyte, washing soda, period. A cleaning agent like TSP may be added. Anode, any ferrous metal will work. Old mower blades and re bar are favorites but might not be practical. Power, a battery charger with at least 10 amps, voltage not important. You are dealing with chemistry and electricity and some things simply cannot be changed. Current travels in a straight line negative to positive. Surface area of the anode controls the amount of transfer in a given time so bigger the better. As the iron oxide coats the anode it acts as an insulator so frequent cleaning speeds the process. A wire brush is good for this. I use corrugated roofing for the anode because of the large surface area, low cost and disposable. (less cleaning). Now you have the basics. Questions?
 

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I built one using a 100 gal tank from Tractor Supply. The anodes are old brake rotors welded to rebar. The power supply is an old Sears 10 amp battery charger. I also added multiple leads so I can connect to more than one point on whatever it is I'm trying to clean up and put the whole thing in a frame so anything heavy hangs from the frame and not the tank.

M.D.
 

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Old Guy With Old Toys
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I find a kiddy wading pool works good for much stuff. I just pulled a 28" tractor rim from mine. For anodes, I use sheet metal scraps as I happen to have a good supply and they are disposable.

Mighty Dodge, that is one elaborate looking set up you have there.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
I was thinking of building my tank from plywood with 1 x 10 sidewalls and black plastic for a liner. My first project is a 4ft snow blade for a Massey 12.
I always heard go big or go home....:thThumbsU
 

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I saw a post somewhere a few years ago where a guy made a giant tank and dipped a camper trailer frame. Something like 40' foot, I think it was. It was a wood tank covered with sheet plastic and not too very deep. Neat stuff...
 

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I was once wondering if you could just use a metal tank and also have it be the anode. What brand name(s) is the soda sold under and where do you get it?
 

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I was once wondering if you could just use a metal tank and also have it be the anode. What brand name(s) is the soda sold under and where do you get it?
The sacrificial anode is consumed so if you used a metal tank it would soon have holes in it. I use Arm & Hammer washing soda, get it at the store.

M.D.
 

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This is one of the most informative threads I've read in a long time. That link to the tutorial is great. I spend way to much of my life grinding and occasionally sandblasting old stuff. I like the idea of making a large tank out of timbers and lining it with plastic like a pond liner. I have a pickup frame I would love to do this to along with several other parts off that truck.

Couple of questions as I'm not a chemist.
If I were to make up a large batch of solution such as metioned above is there a good way to neutralize it so it could be dumped without harm? Evaporation takes a while.

With a large temp unit like for a truck frame. When doing several pieces over a period of time I presume the solution will evaporate away. Do I replenish by just adding water or do I add more solution premixed. I don't want to make the solution too strong by refilling if I just need water.

If you have a moderate sized tank such as the 100 gallon one above could it be used in a shed or would the fumes destroy other equipment in the shed and be bad to breath in a closed space. I use a woodstove glass cleaner that is mostly lye and that is some vile stuff. Outdoors around my place leaves and such could be an issue for an outdoor open tank.

Just saw a GT sleeve hitch disc gang the other day locally for $50. No paint on it just rust. It would be a great test unit. I have a 10 amp deep cycle charger and an old 304 SS exhaust system in pieces to use for an anode.

I understand that on a large piece it would be benificial to run a perimeter wire with several anodes. Is it also a good idea to connect the black wire to several points on say a truck frame or is that not needed. I realize one good point would energize the whole thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Willowbilly3 you are right... but you are wrong also.... if you use a metal tank the "stuff" will accumulate on the tank but at the same time certain chemicals, metals are being removed from the anode (which is your metal tank) and transferred to the piece you are removing the rust from... thus creating thee holes in your tank....Does that make sense??
My question is and Im sure this depends on the quality of your tank and how often you use it.... How long before holes start to appear???
Now who can answer Squatch ??
 

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First of all washing soda is a harmless product. It's the same stuff the Feds said to take out of laundry detergent. If you put your arm in the tank WITH THE POWER OFF nothing will happen except your hand will be cleaner. The electrolysis process does produce a gas, hydrogen sulfide if I remember correctly, so the use without ventilation is probably not be a good idea. If you are going to replace lost solution just add water. Then with the anode and electrode clean and the charger showing a charge add more washing soda until the highest amp output is obtained. The solution will reach a saturation point so more than that is a waste of time. As for doing a car frame you will probably be disappointed. Any thing like grease, oil, dirt, and crud will defiantly screw up your tank. Multiple anodes are always a good idea no mater what the part is. Current travels in a straight line so the back of your piece does not get the treatment. Just make sure that everything in the tank is not touching anything conductive including the bottom and sides. Whew did I cover everything?
 

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First; The solution is nothing more than H2O,[water] Na2CO3 [Sodium carbonate] and Fe2O3 [Iron Oxide]. It really is a good solution for watering lots of different shrubs so it is pretty much benign.
However, applying current to water produces Hydrogen. Remember the Hindenburg. Good ventilation is a must. Grease and paint is not a big problem except for the gooey mess. If left in long enough paint will also come off. Don't use this stuff for shrubs. Finally, you are only limited to the size of the non-ferrous insulated container you can build and the size of your power supply. I have and do use a 150 amp dc welder for larger stuff. :goodl::thThumbsU
 
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