Remeber last week I posted that my 810 with a K241 was giving me problems at high speed. This is what I have done and found.
Rebuilt the carburator, everything inside is new with Kohler parts
Set the valves. Intake was dead on, had to adjust the exhaust
Pulled the head for inspection
New fuel filter
The work I did was all suggested by GREAT FRIENDS on this site.
Nothing, still runs like crap but only after a few minutes.
Looked at the coil and found the condenser wire was broke at the lug, but was still making a connection 99% of the time. Looked in my junk box and wired another condenser and it runs great.
OK test run, cut about 1/2 acre and it stalls. I find the coil is so hot you can barely touch it. It starts up, runs really bad, make it to the shop and put a fan on the coil. It cools down and runs great.
Now my question. Can you use a car coil with a built in resister or do I have to get a Kohler coil?
I talked to Brian Miller and was told an internal resistor coil will work just fine.
I picked on up at NAPA for $25.00. My local Kohler dealer wanted $84.00 and would have to order it. They also told me that when people find out the price of the Kohler coil, they advise them to get an internal resistor coil from NAPA. That is a really BIG difference in price, I wonder what is so special about the Kohler coils?
The differences is in volume and how many hands it has to go thru to get to the consumer. NAPA chops out atleast one step. Figure around a 50% increase at each step. We can get Timken bearings locally cheaper than we can get Chinese bearings from Gravely.
mtthwvn73, When I got home, started busting up my fall garden, tilling and getting ready to plt shallots tomorrow. I blasted the coil bracket and primmed and painted it black. I will mount the new coil tomorrow PM.
I changed the coil and put in a GM condenser. It started right up without any issues, sounds really good. I will cut grass Thursday for a real test run.
I don't like the way condensers are made. I took 3 different sizes of heat shrink tubing and put it on the wire coming out of the condenser to make the wire thicker, more insulation, (need the outside diameter of the wire bigger). I don't think they make heat that will go from the BIG diameter of the condenser body down to the small diameter of the wire in one step.Then I got a piece of heat shrink that will go over the metal body of the condenser about 4" long and put that on the metal body and the wire coming out of the condenser. Putting the heat shrink on the body and the wire seals the condenser and the wire from moisture. You must remember not ot cover the all of the metal part of the condenser. The condenser must be grounded to the engine.