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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been trying to see one of these i-series zero turn tractors. But I'd like to see one in person before I plunk down my money. I have contacted every dealer for as far away as a hundred miles and nobody has any. Is there a problem with these tractors that I should know about. The dealers all say the same thing, that people want the zero turn with the sticks and not the steering wheel models. Problem for me is I want the snow blower attachment too and you can't use that with the zero turn with the sticks. Another thing is my brochure lists a model i-1044 with a 44 inch mowing deck. They all say that the i-series only comes in either a 42 or 50 inch model. I'm thinking they discontinued the 44 in and never changed the brochure. Any thoughts? Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I got an e-mail from a dealer 60 miles away. He said the model with the i-1044 has been discontinued but he does have both the 42 and the 50 in stock. I'm thinking I'll be taking a ride next week to have a look at them. I'm having a hard time deciding whether I should go with the cub ztt-42 or that new Snapper NXT 23HP with the 46 inch deck. The Snapper dealer says the turning radius on the NXT is so close I may not need the zero turn capabilities. May be just his sales pitch but both machines have different advantages over each other. Decisions decisions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey Toolin, thanks for the advice and info. I have read many of your posts and partly why I am considering buying one of these tractor. I'm kind of split between the Snapper NXT 46 and the one I really wanted the Cub Cadet ZTT46 because I think it had the better engine. but considering the half acre lot that I have the 42 should be ok. I Don't think the size of my yard would justify they ZTT50. My only real plans are to mow and get the snowblower attachment for it. The Cub Cadet website has me a little confused and the dealers don't seem to be all that sure, probably because around these parts nobody has them. I have two questions for you about your tractor. First one is does your tractor have cruise control? Second one is about the snowblower attachment. I think yours would be a two stage. Anyway the website says the 42 excepts attachments and gives a list of them but the snowblower isn't on the list. They guy at the dealer here says you can get one but when I press him he also says it's not listed. I'd like to know for sure before I buy it. I'm located in Syracuse and I did get an e-mail from a dealer, I don't have the address right here in front of me but he's in a town in south west form here about 70 miles or so. He has a 42 and a 50 so am seriously thinking about taking some time off this week to ride out and see them. I also thought about calling Cub Cadet and see how long the 46 has been out of production. Can't have been all that long as it's listed in the bruchure I have and if I'm lucky maybe can point me to a leftover someplace. Thanks again, Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Wow Toolin, that's a lot of info. You should be working for Cab Cadet. You've opened up some new areas I never new about. Thanks for the great suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Ok guys the search is over. Thank you for all the suggestions. I am now the proud owner of a slightly used 2007 Cub Cadet i-Series ZTT lawn tractor model i-1046. Toolin, I called your guy in Rochester and he said the 1046 had been discontinued and he didn't have one. I also checked with numerious dealers around the state. Anyway gone are the 2 hour walks behind that old Toro 21 incher for me. The local Cub dealer near me, actually less than 5 miles from my house, called me and said he had one coming in on trade. Seems he sold it 2 years ago to this guy who passed away and the i-1046 was too large for his wife to handle so he took this in on trade and sold her something smaller. I looked at it and it only has 40 hours on the hour meter and looks like new. Mulch kit and front bumper, that I was going to purchase if I ended up going with the1042, were already on this so that was another plus. He checked it out and said it needed nothing except the battery was low, I don't know, probably from sitting. Anyway he put a new battery in it, changed the oil and filters and said he would warranty it for one year bumper to bumper, labor included plus free delivery. And for as long as I own this, when I need to have it brought in for service, he provides free pick up and delivery. Yes that's right, free pick up and delivery for as long as I own it. You won't get that kind of service from the HD and the other box stores. Price paid $1600.00+tax. Now am just waiting for the grass to grow. Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Good deal.. welcome to the club! Hope it measures up to your expectations. Of course now you'll have to post some pictures...
:wwp:

I'd say 40 hours in 3 years is pretty low mileage. Free pickup/dropoff is pretty nice too.. my local dealer doesn't offer that.

I know you said your dealer did a once-over before selling it to you, but I'd still hit each zerk with a grease gun just to be safe. If your dealer already did it, it shouldn't take more than a few pumps on each one before the grease oozes out.

Did they provide the owners manual with it? If not you can download a PDF and print it. The tractor's service manual is another matter.. I think the only way to get that is to cough up $25 (which I haven't bothered to do yet). Note the *engine* service manual is available free from Kohler.

Now that you've got the machine, I'd suggest keeping an eye out for your snowblower attachment early. Come the snowy season either the prices will be higher or the selection fewer.
I have downloaded the owners manual and the engine manual from Kohler but for the time being I'm going to wait on that service manual. Greasing the zerk fittings will be done before my next mow. I think I read that the zerk fittings on the mower deck should be done after every ten hours of mower? Does that sound right? Is this how often you all do this. Thanks for the heads up on the snowblower attachment. I've been looking for a good used one but I feel there may be few if any available. I'm no computer wizard but will try at posting a couple of pictures. Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Yikes! Thanks for the heads up on that bagger attachment. I was thinking about it but after reading your report I think I'll pass on it. So far all I've ordered for this is a set of those gator blades you mentioned. From what I've read everyone seems satisfied with them. When they get here I'll tackle taking the deck off to grease the spindles as Toolin has suggested and then put those new blades on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
The max RPM adjustment itself was fairly easy (just threading a little set screw in or out and tightening a nut). However taking off a bunch of parts to get access to the governor and get enough room to get pliers around the nut was not so easy, at least not on the i1050.

The governor is located at the front of the engine just behind the muffler. So I had to remove the hood, front bumper, muffler shield, muffler itself, and a few mounting brackets, before I had clear access to the governor controls and linkage.

Tools required were socket set and needle-nose pliers. Not necessary but handy was a cordless impact driver with a 12" flexible extension rod with socket driver on the end for removing brackets where the bolts were tucked away in impossible tight spots. Barring the flexible socket extension, you can use small crescent wrenches instead, but with very short strokes, so plan on being there a while.

If you haven't already, download the Service Manual for your engine from the Kohler website manuals download page. For the i1046 this should be the 20 HP Kohler Courage OHV, 2 cylinder, which is Kohler engine model SV710. Put that model in the entry field and it will provide links to PDFs of both the service and the owners manuals for the engine. Here's a direct link to the engine service manual at the time of this writing. If that direct link doesn't work, go the model number route above.

Then go to page 5.18 in the engine service manual. Myself I jumped right to the "High Speed (RPM) Adjustment" section since that was my issue, but you might want to do all the steps to get the full dynamic range of RPM. I basically adjusted the "High Speed Adjusting Screw" shown in figure 5.35.

Obviously it helps to have a tachometer handy during the adjustments. I just used the one I had already installed in the tractor earlier.

Again, MTD recommends running at a max RPM of 3600, not just for optimum cutting but also to make sure sufficient air cooling is provided to the hydros. However my local Cub dealer routinely sets all their tractors they service to 3200. So I guess opinions vary. I noticed 3200 definitely sucks less gas than 3600...
I just want to say what a great tip this governor adjustment was. I was rather disapointed with the cut left buy my i1046. I slowed way down when I mowed, and mowed often. Like every 3 days. Raised the mowing deck too. After adjusting the deck per the manual and cleaning the deck and then changing to gator blades the results after mowing were still tractor still unsatisfactory. I finally removed the muching plug and drilled a hole in the chute and hooked a bunji cord to it so I could mow with the chute up. Was the only way to get a decent cut. I was about to give up. Then I read this and decided what have I got to loose. I got a tach like Toolin did and checked the rpm. Results 2940 to 2970. Spoke with a Cub Cadet tech on the phone after calling the number from the website. He said that rpm speed would definately result in a lesser quality cut. I followed these instructions to set the governor. After a few tries I got the thing running at 3450 to 3480. It was getting dark and I wanted to get things put back together and give it a try so that is where I left it. If needed I could always go back and take it apart to go higher if I need to. I happy to report there is no need to. What a difference. The mulching plug is back in, the gators are still on, and the cut is stunning. The lawn never looked so good. In the beginning I found the screw on the governor adjustment was loose and the nut to lock it in place was also loose. My theory is that the adjustment screw could have backed out over time from vibration. Maybe or maybe not. Either way, just to be safe, I put a little locktite on the screw to keep it there. Thanks again Toolin for this post. I now look forward to mowing again. Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
I thought the idle speed on this tractor was a little high but wasn't sure till I got the tach connected. Now I see it is idleing at 1840rpm. It still shuts off ok, no backfire or anything like that but I thought as long as I have a tach now I should set it for the proper speed. The manual says the idle is supposed to be 1200 plus or minus 75. When I back out the screw nothing happens as the screw isn't touching anything. If I turn the screw in to raise the idle I have to turn it 2 complete turns before it makes contact and starts to raise the idle, then if I back the screw out again it goes down to 1840 and no lower. Any suggestions as to how I can lower the idle. Thanks Rick
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
according to the kohler serv manual, there are two different idle RPM specs, depending on what engine idle control setup is on your engine. The "governed idle" setup spec is 1800 RPM... the "standard" is 1200 RPM. Dunno which setup you have.
A governed idle set up, or a standard. This is beyond me. Is there a way a novice like myself can tell one from the other? Or seeing as it seems to be running ok maybe I should just leave well enough alone.
 
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