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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
1977 400 with model 20 front loader. Been sitting a long time and needs all new fluids and rubber. Before I drop $$ into it is there anything critical I need to examine that might make the resurrection attempt a bad idea? I'm willing to put in around 1k getting it up to snuff (I do have a decent tool array including a gates hose crimper, cnc and manual mills and lathes, press brake, leaf brake etc to support this quest)
Plant Vehicle Wheel Tire Automotive tire
 

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Hi 78sharpshooter and
Sky Light Tree Font Architecture

How many hours on the tractor?...Sounds like you have all the tools you could possibly need to get it going nicely again...check Miller Tires for the rubber...they are a site sponsor...if you call them ...mention MTF for a discount
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hour meter says 759, but not certain if it's still functional. It started right up with starting fluid, sounded good no smoke and loader worked although it slowly lowered on its own. I'm willing to put the time into it because I know how much it will save my back from having to lift and move things around my olive tree farm
 

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Hour meter says 759, but not certain if it's still functional. It started right up with starting fluid, sounded good no smoke and loader worked although it slowly lowered on its own. I'm willing to put the time into it because I know how much it will save my back from having to lift and move things around my olive tree farm
Take a good look at all the fluids. Condition of the fluid will give you an idea of potential issues. Contaminated hydraulic fluid can do a lot of damage quickly especially water. Also look at the oil and or coolant if liquid cooled. Signs of coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant could potentially mean more $.
 

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The 20 front end Loader was Made By Johnson Many of the Loader structure Parts are Not available any more But Hydraulic components will be easy to source from companies Like Parker Hydraulic Today the Johnson Arps company is Amerequip which Makes the JD Backhoe for the Sub Compact and Compact Deere Tractors. The 400 is a decent JD Garden tractor sourcing other OEM attachments Can be a Problem as there attachments Have a unique Mount for front Mount equipment Like a Front Blade compared to the 420 & 430 Tractors design Plus the Rotary tiller was run on a 840RPM rear PTO Not a 540 or a 2000RPM PTO. You Can still source a 3point hitch though for these Tractors either In standard Cat 0 which was Made for the Tractor during it's Production run Or even Limited Cat 1 Thanks to Bill Ruegg Ruegg MFG - Agricultural Hitch Kits for Various Tractors.

BTW Welcome to the forum (y)
 

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If the loader lowered on its own (drift) you probably have to replace some O rings and seals....Surpluscenter.com should have what you need
 

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78sharpshooter,

It is faded quite a bit but not rusted at joints, welds.

I take it you are in an arid climate, it should buff out as paint was better then.

CCMoe
 

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Nice score!
 

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Based on the tools you describe I seriously doubt you can't handle what this project will bring. It's gonna be a cool little tractor!
 

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Welcome to MTF!

As long as the cylinder rods are free of rust pits, and the wire braiding of the hoses is free of rust or broken wires, you're good to go. The rubber coating on the hoses is for abrasion protection. It contributes nothing to containing the pressure inside of the hose.

The arms drifting down indicates that the cylinders need to be resealed, probably all four of them. Take one cylinder apart and gently remove all of the seals. Take the seals to your local hydraulics shop and have them matched and get enough to do all of the cylinders and a couple of spares of the most common seal. It is not unheard of to nick a seal when reassembling the cylinder and have to redo it.

Ag tires are for soft fields. On hard soil conditions, something with a flat tread and chains that can bite may be more realistic. The front tires need to be suited for flotation to limit sinking when a payload is in the bucket. The front tires actually carry more weight than the rear tires when payloads are entered into the calculation.

The bucket appears to be oversized and home made. I suggest a minimum ballast weighing 400 lb with options to raising it to 800 lb would be suitable with the 2-speed final drive. My MF1655 carries 400 lb as permanent ballast and I can increase that to 865 lb by adding wheel weights and the tiller to the 3PH. Normal ballast load is 650 lb, and the tractor can spin its tires at my discretion when digging into a pile of dirt with a 54" wide, 22" high and deep bucket that weighs 210 lb. The Massey has a 20 hp Onan and the same final drive as that tractor, and the same hydro as in the JD 400. I used it for 22 years and 2200 hours.

Great Machine! You're going to have fun! And yes, it's a real back saver!
 

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Welcome to the forum.

Take some more pics of the tractor. That will help us give better advice. Details like engine, serial number and rear end would be great.

I have a loader I built and it is amazing all the little tasks you find for it. Tell us more about what you want to do and we can advise on that too.


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Nice score! But a not model 20 loader the front angle supports, arms, bucket and the cylinders are a dead giveaway of a brantly loader. Brantlys are a well built loader that was available for many makes and models back in the day. Its just like the loader im mounting on my mf14 you will enjoy this machine once its going. Gt loaders are great for any farm because of there compact size they can go where alot of other machines wont.
 

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Ok it is apparent the hood is all wrong so you might as well send it my way so it can rest on a true 420 :p Nice find. Looks and sounds like it is worth some more investing $$
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
There is no oil in the transmission. I have some antiwear iso 32 oil I can use to test it and then fill with the proper hygard. Is using th 32 for a test a bad idea? Also, is pressure washing the transmission ok to do? Looks like an unused shift on the left side, what was it for?
Tread Automotive tire Wood Wheel Tire
Wood Stairs Tints and shades Font Automotive wheel system
 

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Looks pretty clean considering it’s age and hours. You can pressure wash the outside. It might cause some black paint to flake off. Take caution arround any areas that have seals.
 
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There is no oil in the transmission. I have some antiwear iso 32 oil I can use to test it and then fill with the proper hygard. Is using th 32 for a test a bad idea? Also, is pressure washing the transmission ok to do? Looks like an unused shift on the left side, what was it for?
Note that the sight tube is at the top half of the final drive. There is ample room below it for enough fluid to operate the hydro. I have a dipstick on mine and if it comes up dry, I have no idea how much fluid is in the reservoir. As long as it moves under its own power, there is enough. The site tube and dipstick just tell you that more needs to be added for the proper level.

There are several types of fluid acceptable for these hydro/final drives, motor oil, ATF, hydraulic fluid, and brand specific hydro fluids. The additive packages in each type may not be compatible with the additive package in another type and there is a possibility that the combination can gum up the works. Drain the fluid and change the filter, and choose one type of fluid that you can stick with until the next fluid/filter change. AW32 is an acceptable low viscosity hydraulic fluid.

The shifter on the side of the final drive is the HI-N-LO 2-speed. When using the loader, you want to be in LO.

Note that there is no free wheel lever on tractors with a 2-speed final drive. The Neutral position does the same thing, only better. It takes the hydro completely off line.
 
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