I have a 430 with a model 30 hydraulic tiller mounted on back. The whole machine is new to me, so I have some questions. I tried breaking sod in my yard with it, and when I even touch it to the ground it tries shaking the tractor (430) to pieces!! Actully it doesnt shake the tractor so much, but the tiller itself bounces around and does all kinds of shaking. I havent had a chance to try it on an existing garden. I have it set up so the tines rotate backwards compared to the direction of the tractor. What tips can you give me for tilling and what to expect. Can I tear up my tiller or tractor trying to break ground with a tiller??
I need tips for my rear mounted tiller
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A tiller is designed to create a good seed bed. You want to have a lose soil base to start with. Think of sand paper. You start with rough (plow) and then go smoother (tiller). From year to year, if the soil is lose - you can just use a tiller. simple sneer, hope it helps.
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yeah I obviously know that plowing it then using the tiller will work much better. But it is new to me, so just wondering what to expect. I might ad that it is a model 30 hydraulic, with 12" extension wing making it 42" wide, not that it should make a difference. But when I bought it, I had someone telling me (from John Deere) that it was a beast of a tractor and tiller, it could break sod, yada, yada, yada. And he really had no reason to lie to me, I didn't even buy my setup from a dealer, I just inquired to see.
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Well, I'm sure if you kept at it, that setup would break ground and is a breast of a unit, so they didn't quite lie to you. Tilling should be slow and smooth. Raise it, do the top layer. Go over the section again and put it a little deeper. Start with a little bit of bite and work down. You will get a feel for it quick.
I grew up on a farm and was taught simple logic. You can push any machine, but pushing it usually breaks it faster than normal. A machine will give you feedback. If it sounds like it is working too hard or is shaking, something isn't right. It may work for a while but it's only a matter of time till something lets lose. If it feels wrong, usually something is wrong.
Good luck!
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I have two 30 hyd tillers with the extensions. As pctdavis said-listen to your machine. If it is bouncing all over you need to slow down or take smaller bits. BUT-these can break ground in hard dry clay. Seen others do it including my own tillers do it. My 30 tiller has stopped my 332 dead a couple times when I find a too hard of a spot or too many weeds. I have broken fresh sode several times tilling other places with it. You did it correcly by reversing the direction for new tilling. From here forward you should be able to put it the normal direction which gives a little finer soil.
One way or another though-the tiller will bounce some. Just wait till you catch a rock when you aren't reverse tilling-it will launch the tractor.
I can't say I have actually seen a 30 tiller that had a bad pump/motor/shafts. Only thing I have seen is the tines are worn and the tiller itself it rusty and beat up. But no none working ones that blew up.
One way or another though-the tiller will bounce some. Just wait till you catch a rock when you aren't reverse tilling-it will launch the tractor.
I can't say I have actually seen a 30 tiller that had a bad pump/motor/shafts. Only thing I have seen is the tines are worn and the tiller itself it rusty and beat up. But no none working ones that blew up.
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I've tilled in sod before with my mechanical tiller but I try to avoid it. I did a couple of lawns and when I got done I really had to ask myself if it was worth the $50/hr I charged. It is hard on the equipment. If you can kill the grass first is a big help. Plowing first also helps. It's difficult to run over the lumpy ridges, but less shock to the powertrain.
Nowadays if I need to do lawn type work I use my Harley Rake and save the tiller for the garden work.
Nowadays if I need to do lawn type work I use my Harley Rake and save the tiller for the garden work.
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Don't go so deep on your first Pass. Does the tiller have the adjustable skids if Not I would Invest in them about 3inches is usually Perfect for the first Pass That way if you hit any objects In the ground gives You a Bit more time to react. When I till with my 42inch Hydraulic tiller I’m usually adjusting my 3 point as I go along Because I don’t have the skid shoes either and it has a Tendency to really dig in:thThumbsU
.............so stupid me, I think part of the reason it was hopping so bad was the tree roots I noticed tonight in the soil. I was close to where I had a tree stump removed recently. So, the reverse spinning tines are good for breaking sod or hard ground, but I should turn it around to forward spinning for a garden that gets used season after season? Also, I dont have a 3 point, I just have it hooked up to what I think is called the rock shaft. Can I just use the rockshaft adjuster as my guide? Lowering it a little bit every pass?
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Roots would do it. Yes you can use your rockshaft to meter the depth to an extent. Any dips in the soil and it will go up/down with it. Skid shoes are the best to make it even. But-I have skid shoes and don't use them. I just hog through the dirt without issue. Yes-I would flip it to the normal rotation now that the garden is established. I would also remove the roots if possible.
Since this thread is lackin pictures. Some of mine tilling before I added the 12 inch extension.
Also-even if you had a 3 point you would still adjust the 3 point the same way as the normal rockshaft. If you ever want to convert the tiller to 3 point Jim Briney is the person to contact. He needs at least 10 orders before he makes them due to costs. He was recently doing a signup for another set. If you have nothing else for the rear of the 430-no big deal then.
Since this thread is lackin pictures. Some of mine tilling before I added the 12 inch extension.
Also-even if you had a 3 point you would still adjust the 3 point the same way as the normal rockshaft. If you ever want to convert the tiller to 3 point Jim Briney is the person to contact. He needs at least 10 orders before he makes them due to costs. He was recently doing a signup for another set. If you have nothing else for the rear of the 430-no big deal then.
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Hook up the tree roots to the tow hitch with the tiller on the back and give 'em a tug to pull put what you can.
I have one tiller that I removed the extension so we can use it to plant rows of shrubs and the other one has the extensions still on. I have found that when they try and push the tractor it is much easier to keep moving although it takes a pass or 2 more to break up the soil than when spinning the tines the other way.
And you definitely know when you hit a rock either way but when it is pushing yep the whole tractor and you know it.
The tines on mine were worn out when I got them so I am not worried about damage to them and likely makes it a little easier on everything when I break new ground.
It will also stall my 430 when they get a good hold of the dirt.
From the trailer to the stick on the left side of the picture is what we did this past weekend. 120 shrubs and more coming. Over behind the composter in the pasture is where I tried out the one with the extension still on.
I have one tiller that I removed the extension so we can use it to plant rows of shrubs and the other one has the extensions still on. I have found that when they try and push the tractor it is much easier to keep moving although it takes a pass or 2 more to break up the soil than when spinning the tines the other way.
And you definitely know when you hit a rock either way but when it is pushing yep the whole tractor and you know it.
The tines on mine were worn out when I got them so I am not worried about damage to them and likely makes it a little easier on everything when I break new ground.
It will also stall my 430 when they get a good hold of the dirt.
From the trailer to the stick on the left side of the picture is what we did this past weekend. 120 shrubs and more coming. Over behind the composter in the pasture is where I tried out the one with the extension still on.
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