[mopar65pa]

Cheese and rice! I know this was a basket case but really? :tango_face_plain:

Well it's all good I have a great Miller 211 mig welder and I know how to use it.

I thinking I'm going to put a backing plate on the inside of the frame to support the steering.

 

[rhenning]

Looks like the frame was breaking for a long time. What tractor is it on. The pictures don't show enough. Roger

 

[rayjay]

Looks like it was repaired poorly in it's past. I would make sure the steering king pins are not binding causing high forces. I might add some longer gussets towards the rear of the frame if there is no interference. Strength by triangles not by mass.

 

[TUDOR]

If it has been repaired previously, it would be best to find out why it is exerting enough force to create the damage and make corrections at that point. That cylinder will exert about 2700 lb of pushing force and about 2400 lb of pulling force. Those are high force loads for a GT's steering.

Make sure that the cylinder will not push or pull the steering to the end stops. If the cylinder can push the steering to the end stops and still has stroke left, the frame is going to tear just like that. Gusseting or other reinforcement will only move the failure point further down the frame unless the root cause is corrected.

I broke a splice weld on my MF12's frame 3 times before investigating why it failed. Once the correction was made, it never failed again. There was no need to add metal to the splice for reinforcement. The fix was to add a short piece to each side of the loader subframe to bear against the axle. That redirected the axle torque to the loader and away from the tractor's frame.

Basically, both my problem and yours would be the same. The load stops when the actuator still has room to move.

 

[PA318Guy]

Not the first one that I've seen do that. I think factory placed rear mount arm in incorrect location on some frames. Most do fix them by reinforcing them on the frame. Tudor is correct, if you can find the location that allows the travel of the piston to fully extend and retract without pulling on the frame it will last much longer.

 

[Nathan Bottjer]

Holy moly what did you hit? weld her back on!

 

[mopar65pa]

Looks like the frame was breaking for a long time. What tractor is it on. The pictures don't show enough. Roger

It's a 332 yes it was welded poorly before.

Looks like it was repaired poorly in it's past. I would make sure the steering king pins are not binding causing high forces. I might add some longer gussets towards the rear of the frame if there is no interference. Strength by triangles not by mass.

I just put a used ram on it and saw the welds. nothing is binding at all and I just rebuilt the front axle and spindles.

Not the first one that I've seen do that. I think factory placed rear mount arm in incorrect location on some frames. Most do fix them by reinforcing them on the frame. Tudor is correct, if you can find the location that allows the travel of the piston to fully extend and retract without pulling on the frame it will last much longer.

I have hear this is a common thing with the power steering JDs.

Holy moly what did you hit? weld her back on!

LOL........... I didn't hit anything she just let loose.

I'll be dragging the grinder and welder out tomorrow. I may even get out the old Lincon tombstone stick welder for this one. :tango_face_wink:

 

[Nouveau Redneck]

Not the first one that I've seen do that. I think factory placed rear mount arm in incorrect location on some frames. Most do fix them by reinforcing them on the frame. Tudor is correct, if you can find the location that allows the travel of the piston to fully extend and retract without pulling on the frame it will last much longer.

Maybe weld the frame piece back on and move the cylinder mounting eyelets from the frame to a separate plate of their own, then drill 4 holes in the frame and cut 4 slots in the plate. That way you can bolt the plate to the frame and slide the plate back and forth via the slots until you have it in the right position, and then either tighten the bolts really good or weld the plate to the frame once you know it's in the right position.