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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not new to the forum, but I forgot my username. Anywho, I just picked up a 73-74 140h3. From what I can tell I has never been worked on. It is in really good condition, though it spent the last 3 or so years outside. I got it running, but I don't seem to be getting any hydraulic pressure from the transmission. I pulled the seat pan and covers, fan. The relief valves seem to be up at their limit. Fluid looks good. Its red so type F, I'm assuming. Level looks good. But I was getting nothing, as far as drive, or hydraulic jacks moving. (loader is on its own system) Now it seems i'm down to changing the filter. I pulled it off, but it's not oem, I can't find it, or a good cross reference. Can someone help me out with a part # for the transmission filter? Does it have to be JD or can I get something at napa?
First pics2.jpg
 

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If you can get the old filter off NAPA will match the tread size ...make sure you get a hydraulic filter...not just an oil filter...good luck with the project (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
If you can get the old filter off NAPA will match the tread size ...make sure you get a hydraulic filter...not just an oil filter...good luck with the project (y)
yeah thanks! It had an oil filter on it. It looked ancient. STP s02846. all check the napa tomorrow.
 

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JD part number for your filter is AM39653 and $8.84 at dealer. Napa crosses over to 3 different numbers from $20 to $8.69 for NAPA # SME 7071153. I'd go with a JD filter!

Prefill filter about 2/3 full and install. Add hydraulic oil to proper level. With seat pan still removed, start engine, verify fan on hydro is rotating, and move hydraulic lever(s). Engine should labor and fan should continue to rotate. If fan stops, shut down and inspect drive shaft. There are three 1/4" pins... 1 each end of drive shaft and 1 in hydro input shaft... that have been known to break or fall out. If drive shaft doesn't rotate at all, look at engine disconnect. I've never dealt with that, so can't help! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
JD part number for your filter is AM39653 and $8.84 at dealer. Napa crosses over to 3 different numbers from $20 to $8.69 for NAPA # SME 7071153. I'd go with a JD filter!

Prefill filter about 2/3 full and install. Add hydraulic oil to proper level. With seat pan still removed, start engine, verify fan on hydro is rotating, and move hydraulic lever(s). Engine should labor and fan should continue to rotate. If fan stops, shut down and inspect drive shaft. There are three 1/4" pins... 1 each end of drive shaft and 1 in hydro input shaft... that have been known to break or fall out. If drive shaft doesn't rotate at all, look at engine disconnect. I've never dealt with that, so can't help! Bob
Shaft is spinning just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Wahooo, it goes! but now I have a hyd. leak from 1 of the front remotes, right smack dab under the engine. I'm gonna disconnect and cap it. It doesn't look like I can access it without removing the motor.
 

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Approach with caution and LOTS of penetrating oil! The tubing often rusts solid to the sleeve and the sleeve rusts solid to the nut. Turning nut to remove can result in twisted/cracked tubing. Spray with penetrating oil often and repeat spraying often! HOLD nut and turn fitting. After fitting starts to turn, remove snap ring. Coupler and fitting can now be removed, the remove fitting. At this point, I'd just replace coupler and reassemble. If you do go with a cap, remember you've got 500psi+ and malleable iron caps are rated at 125psi. You'll need to find a steel cap... 1/4NPT I believe. Bob
 

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Nice score!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Approach with caution and LOTS of penetrating oil! The tubing often rusts solid to the sleeve and the sleeve rusts solid to the nut. Turning nut to remove can result in twisted/cracked tubing. Spray with penetrating oil often and repeat spraying often! HOLD nut and turn fitting. After fitting starts to turn, remove snap ring. Coupler and fitting can now be removed, the remove fitting. At this point, I'd just replace coupler and reassemble. If you do go with a cap, remember you've got 500psi+ and malleable iron caps are rated at 125psi. You'll need to find a steel cap... 1/4NPT I believe. Bob
Yeah man, thanks for the advice. I have a can of penetrant in each hand when I'm working on this thing. Also a big container of antiseize when I put it together. Luckily I havent had any frozen bolts....yet. ;) Gonna have to replace one of the tubing pieces, anyway, because it has a hole, right by the fan shroud.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
OK, I have officially passed the "spent more on fixing it than I paid for it" point. Somebody's got to keep me away form the JD warehouse before I go broke.
 

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I'll give ya what ya got into it. Plus some candy money. Lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Approach with caution and LOTS of penetrating oil! The tubing often rusts solid to the sleeve and the sleeve rusts solid to the nut. Turning nut to remove can result in twisted/cracked tubing. Spray with penetrating oil often and repeat spraying often! HOLD nut and turn fitting. After fitting starts to turn, remove snap ring. Coupler and fitting can now be removed, the remove fitting. At this point, I'd just replace coupler and reassemble. If you do go with a cap, remember you've got 500psi+ and malleable iron caps are rated at 125psi. You'll need to find a steel cap... 1/4NPT I believe. Bob
I have brass compression caps on there now. They are 5/16" ,btw....the size that's hard to find without going to a hyd. shop. I'll only be using them temporarily for testing, but Ill get those replaced ASAP.
 

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Replacing tubing: Most auto parts store carry lengths of tubing for brake or fuel lines. I used them on my 317 without issues. Unless you've got a 37º flaring tool, I'd recommend steel bite type fittings. Weatherhead & Parker have them and can also be purchased through Fastenal or NAPA... don't know what you've got nearby.

Repairing/restoring vintage tractors is a labor of love & personal satisfaction and seldom, if ever, are money makers! Bob
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Repairing/restoring vintage tractors is a labor of love & personal satisfaction and seldom, if ever, are money makers! Bob

Oh how well I know that. This is my 4th restore. Started with a Bolens G14, then a MF35delux, Next a 75' Economy. I need a small tractor around my house to move trailers, move snow, etc. They lead a pretty easy life while I have them. I'm still using the Economy for now, but once I get the Deere up and running and restored I'll be selling the Economy.
 
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