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I have this winch......

9370 Views 53 Replies 19 Participants Last post by  Mr.Lucky
....sitting on my shop floor, just waiting for me to find a use for it. It was used to lift a tool cart and a welder into my work van when I was working. Now that I'm retired and the van is in the van graveyard, it just sits there on the floor gathering dust. The obvious use for it is to mount it to a ball mount tube for use in a trailer hitch receiver on my GT. I doubt I will ever use it much in that configuration. I doubt I'll ever get stuck and don't have large timber to drag. So what to use it for????

This is the catalog page showing my winch. Will my GT tractor battery hold up long enough to make it a useful accessory?

If you had this winch, what would you use it for?
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:howdy: Jack D D........Since your retired (me too) why dont you mount it in the rafters of your garage or shed and use it to lift your mowers front end up so you can work on it.........John.........:trink39: :trink39:
I would think a 70 amp draw would drain a battery quickly and leave the alternator struggling to keep up. Granted, you may rarely be using it at full pull and then only for a short time. :dunno:
:howdy: Jack D D........Since your retired (me too) why dont you mount it in the rafters of your garage or shed and use it to lift your mowers front end up so you can work on it.........John.........:trink39: :trink39:
No need. My shop has a 1 ton jib crane already.
I cemented am eye bolt to the floor in the rear of my garage, and it allowed me to use a winch to winch in non-running vehicles, trailers, or whatever as needed. It saved my back more than a few times.
If you have a trailer then use it to pull things aboard...
I'll send you my address and I'll show ya :thThumbsU

I would probably use it to pull stuff onto my trailer, maybe overhead crane, but you got that one covered already.
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Like rockford and Kbeitz said.

I have a small 12v winch and a battery in a "boat box" that I use both for pulling things into my trailer, and pulling them out into the shop.

My winch has a plate on it with a hole that fits over a hitch ball, and I drop this over a big eye bolt. I have an eye bolt in the front of the trailer, and one near the back wall of the shop, in a concrete anchor in the floor.
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Perhaps the best use for this winch is one of versatility. One that can be moved and quickly adapted to the task at hand, as opposed to one that is permanently mounted for one task only.
I think I have my answer as to what to use the winch for. I had an opportunity to give my bucket/scoop a workout today scooping and hauling gravel for our driveway. My scoop will only lift (according to my calculations) about 500#...less allowing for age and linkage losses. That's not enough power to lift a scoop full of gravel. Especially when it's wet. My thoughts are to mount that winch under the belly of my tractor where the mower deck usually goes (I don't have a mower deck on this tractor) and running the cable forward through pulleys to raise the bucket. This wouldn't negate the hydraulics. That system would still be used for the dozer blade. Using the winch for the bucket would also free up the hydraulics to raise and lower the drag on the rear without making changes to linkages switching from one to the other. The winch, with a 1500# vertical lift should raise a bucket full with no trouble. Speed may be a problem, but if I double the line, it will halve the line speed and add more lifting capacity or lower the draw on the battery. I just happen to have a dash mount remote for this winch.....perfect. Details to work out, but I think it will work.

What do you think?
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Hellow Jack D D ! I rember pictures of bulldozers that had a cable lift. Sounds like the system could work for your fel . I'am not quite retired yet.
Yeah that could work! No down pressure unless you weight the scoop/blade though
I started on a mount for the winch today. It will fasten to the front end lift bracket. There was not enough room underneath and putting it on the front will simplify things, too. I'm going to make it tilt forward so I can open the hood at least far enough to fill the gas tank. Not sure if I'll be able to access the engine with it in place, but it won't be difficult to remove for deeper access.

1st photo is the original lifting mechanism

2nd photo is a repair to a cracked weld where the upper arm connects to the pivot. I re-welded and added a 1/2" square bar between the two lever arms to reinforce the bell crank.

3rd and 4th photos show the padeye added to the lifting arm for a cable pulley.

5th photo shows beginning of brackets for the winch mount.

6th photo is winch plate added.

Everything is just tacked in place. Tomorrow I'll stick it on the tractor for a trial fit. The winch will be mounted near the top of the plate. Cable will go down through the pulley and back up to the bottom of the plate where it will anchor.


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Once your all done.. If you want the most efficency out of your winch cut the line at the longest point you need. Its the first wrap that requires the least amount of energy. Looks like a good set up so far.. Nice fab work..
The first layer gives the greatest leverage to the winch, but you want at least five wraps on there. The cable connection to the drum is typically not designed to take the rated output of the winch, so if you hit the end you'll likely lose the cable. After five wraps around the drum, there is enough friction between the cable and drum that the connection point sees essentially none of the pulling force.
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correct. you've gotta leave a couple wraps around the drum, with cable on cable, so it gains friction. otherwise the end will almost certainly come off.

DD, you're crackin' me up. in my browsing, you're always fabbin' something up for that tractor. i guess when you've got that much steel/tooling around, you're obliged to use it.

so, i've been doing similar projects, these last few months. i'm running a winch operated dozer/snow plow on my '03 dodge cummins. my setup is an old dearborn 6' blade, which i converted to hang off of a pair of eyes, 2' apart, and welded onto my front receiver. i also run my winch/snatch block off of an upright out of the receiver.

now, i'm probably 400#, or so, but i did start off with a 2000# winch that grenaded when i caught a patch of frozen dirt. it also flung both of my headlights off of the upright, and onto my hood, when it snapped back.

round two. 10k# winch. that one tore my upright clean off of the stinger, for lack of gusseting. small gusset added. no trouble since then. well, aside from the spool in solenoid sticking, and destroying all but the winch, itself, as it wrenched part of the fairlead plate off, the snatch exploded, the guard bars ripped off the drum, and a chunk of housing taken with the 2nd guard bar. se la vi. then i relocated the solenoid box under the hood, so it wouldn't take on water anymore!! read: limiter would be cool.

now, on to your scenario.
your 1500# winch will only hold up a few times at maximum load. at 750# it will hold up for a week's work. at around 250# it will hold up for the summer, and maybe two.
looking at your geometry, you're placing the lift point well short of the load. meaning, most of your weight is beyond it. at that location, 400# of dirt will actually put something like 650# of pressure on that point. if you pull from anything less than perpendicular to the lifting arm (angle changes when raising), then you can easily triple that load. ideally, the lift direction should be from somewhere around a foot above the nose of the tractor.

doubling your line must remain at acute angles, or you add incredible strain over around 60*.

with my current setup, i extended my plow out away from the truck, so i wouldn't "bronco" up over it when i hit an obstacle or heavy load. this made my doubled line angle fairly large. too large. but that's where having an oversized winch comes in handy.

lots of failure points on an underrated winch: motor, gears, solenoid, cable, cable ends. all must hold up during load.

sorry to ramble, but i've been through this all very recently.


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This is what I have done with mine. I made it portable so I can put it on the back of my truck or on the trailer or the back of the 212. I do not have a picture of it on the tractor yet but will get one up.:thThumbsU


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that looks like the winch i grenaded. that's what i think they're good for: plug-n-use in various locations. mostly for dragging rolling weight, or light lifting, like an in-bed picker hoist.
Thanks, guys, for the tips. This old winch has seen duty lifting my tool cart and welding cart into my van for over 10 years. Each one weighed several hundred pounds. I used it single line on a boom to lift, hold, swing into the van then lower. It has never failed. I'm doubling the line here to increase its capacity to 2200# vertical lift. I'll never be at full capacity, even for single line vertical lift, but doubling the line will slow the lift speed, which I think will be desireable. I suspect maximum load will be around 700#. That's more than my hydraulic lift can manage, but well within the capabilities of this winch with a doubled line. It has 50' of cable on it right now, and I'll probably shorten that to about 10'. That will slow the lift speed even more. I contemplated leaving all the cable on will be removeable and could be used for other purposes. But it has been sitting on my shop floor for 5 years now and I've never needed it, so shortening the cable is probably best.

The line will be doubled with a near 180 deg. angle. It doesn't get much "cuter" than that, daddywinz. I suspect it will give me many years more service. I had another similar to this one, same brand, just its cousin, the 3000# vertical lift unit that was used for the same job, then later used on my shop jib crane. It was exactly the same winch except for the gearing. It was in service for about 20 years, until I replaced it with a power chain hoist. My son is using it on his old Ford 8N, now. Still going strong. I doubt I will ever wear it out and parts are still available for it, should I ever need to repair it. This winch is very well built.
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Pleased with the trial fit. So far, no modifications are required.


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