[Orangedotfever]

I stripped everything off the SP drive axle and then reinstalled it just to brace the rear wheels. I really like it now. Not so heavy and much easier to push than my 10590. The front wheels need bushings, the left side handle is loose because the knurled bolt is stripped and spins but otherwise, I'm back in the M business. I need to clean the sock screen in the gas tank too. It runs out of gas before the tank is empty. If I can't fix the handle, I may have to swap decks with my parts M. Anybody every have to extract that handle bolt?

 

[imaLawnBoyFreak]

Good to hear Mitch, Glad you like it. I like my push commercial M, i prefer it over the 3 speed model, because i hear those tranny's are a pain to deal with.

Get some Orange Steel commercial wheels on there and it will roll amazing...

 

[Just Plain Al]

Mitch, are you talking about the thru-bolt for the handle that seems to be set into the deck? Need to make sure before I open 'my mouth'. I think I have knurled nut, too.

 

[Orangedotfever]

Mitch, are you talking about the thru-bolt for the handle that seems to be set into the deck? Need to make sure before I open 'my mouth'. I think I have knurled nut, too.

Yeah, it's kind of a splined bolt that sets in the deck and the handle adjustment knob screws onto. It just spins in the deck casting when I try to loosen it and it's a carriage type head that will be a pain to get a grip on.

 

[Just Plain Al]

I'll get a pic of the bolt or the deck with bolt removed. Think I just tapped it out with a hammer.

 

[Just Plain Al]

Yes, I just tapped it out. Here's what the deck looks like, minus one handle bolt. Is this what you were looking for?

 

[Orangedotfever]

I'll get a pic of the bolt or the deck with bolt removed. Think I just tapped it out with a hammer.

I have a spare bolt and the big hand wheel nut but I'm not sure how to get a grip on the bolt head so it will unscrew. It would just tap out with a hammer if the nut would screw off. It works like a wheel stud on a car but it's stripped in the deck and just spins when you turn the hand nut.

 

[Orangedotfever]

Yes, I just tapped it out. Here's what the deck looks like, minus one handle bolt. Is this what you were looking for?

I'm at work and can't see the picture Al. This computer won't let me go to photobucket either. I think we're on the same page but it's not the threads that are stripped, it's the deck casting. I'd just put a bolt with a hex head and a flat and lock washer on it if i can get it apart. Once the handle height is set I can tighten it down and leave it.

 

[Orangedotfever]

Good to hear Mitch, Glad you like it. I like my push commercial M, i prefer it over the 3 speed model, because i hear those tranny's are a pain to deal with.

Get some Orange Steel commercial wheels on there and it will roll amazing...

What's the part number for the comm wheels Ryan? Also, what was the factory plug for the M series? Mine have Autolites in them. Thanks.

 

[Just Plain Al]

Oops! Is there room to use a chisel or a Dremel and make a screwdriver slot in the carriage bolt head?

 

[Orangedotfever]

Oops! Is there room to use a chisel or a Dremel and make a screwdriver slot in the carriage bolt head?

I'm thinking the dremel may be the way to go. I sure hope I can get it out without damaging the nice magnesium deck any more than it is. Since I have a spare hand nut I may just try to drill it out from the nut side.

 

[Just Plain Al]

(Depends on how bad the nut is locked to the bolt)- any chance of getting some red Loctite between the bolt head and the deck?

 

[Orangedotfever]

(Depends on how bad the nut is locked to the bolt)- any chance of getting some red Loctite between the bolt head and the deck?

Maybe. I might try that from the bolt head side and after it dries, put some pentetrating oil in from the nut side. It came this way and for all I know, it may be cross threaded. I do have a parts mower I can steal the deck off of but hate to this early in the game.

 

[mark g]

Can you tack weld a small nut onto the original bolt and use it to "get a grip"? Have used this method in the past and works great

 

[Orangedotfever]

Can you tack weld a small nut onto the original bolt and use it to "get a grip"? Have used this method in the past and works great

That's an idea Mark. I'm not a welder but I have a guy who can help if nothing I try works. Thanks for the tip.:trink40:

 

[Orangedotfever]

Ok, I get it now. After pulling the carb and unsticking the float. The carb is way easier to get off to work on than the Toro Suzuki. Now that this converted M is running right it is way sweet. I can see now why people like them so much. My 10590 has been troublesome but now I feel like it's not unsurmountable. I finally got to hear the motorcycle sound that these make. Wow. I can't wait to run some Castor based oil in this one.

Next is to put bushings in the front wheels and work on that wobbley handle.

 

[Orangedotfever]

New bushings in the front wheels and it rolls a ton better. I may convert it over to the Comm wheels for the C21ZPR. Ran a quart of Klotz Benol through it but the smell kinda gets lost at 64:1. This M gets WAY better fuel mileage than my 10590 so I most likely have a carb issue with the 10590. I also installed a spare mulch fan that I had sitting around. Don't know if it made any difference but since I can only mulch with my M's I thought I'd try it.

Man, air and pre filters are expensive for these. Gonna work on the handle tomorrow.

 

[Orangedotfever]

What a Love/Hate relationship.

Dug into the handle problem today. Had to cut a groove with a Dremel tool into the splined bolt head that the handle adjust knob screws onto. I could then wedge a screwdriver into the slot and get it loose. Replaced this screw with a hex head bolt and.......it still wouldn't tighten down. What had happened was, the hand knobs and the facings that they rub against had worn down enough to where they bottom out before pulling the assembly together tightly. The PO must have taken a pipe wrench to it to try to get it tight and just rounded out the splined casting hole in the deck. I ended up having to cut about 1/8th inch off the end of the hand knobs so that they would tighten down before bottoming out. Worked out great and now my handles don't wobble.

So I'm happy and get ready to go mulch some leaves to try out my new handles. I pull the rope and nothing, pull again.....nothing. Now the mower that has started on one pull for the last 5 days has no spark?????? I pull the plug on the mulch plug safety switch and in starts on the next pull. I take the switch off and fiddle with the magnet and an Ohm meter and NOTHING! This switch just died since yesterday. I pull the magnet off the parts M that was in the garage fire and it works like a new one.

Man you need tons of patience with this series. I'm still liking it though, and learning the little tricks about them.

 

[lawnboy dan]

yep-lots of parience and $ -like owing a corvette

 

[Orangedotfever]

yep-lots of parience and $ -like owing a corvette

Yep, the parts mower I bought for $20 saved me $22 just on that magnetic safety switch that Mowpart wants $42 for. This one needs a trailing shield too, $18 new. The parts mower has a good one on it. Whew, best $20 I've spent in a while and haven't needed engine or carb parts yet. :Stop: