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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Guys,
PA318GUY said I should post some pics, so..., The best I know how to do here is post the link to my off site. The first is before adding the scarifier. The second is after. It's been frozen, now too wet to really try it but it should do what I want. My linkages do not allow for downpressure, I thought about adding hooks for weight behind blade. I want to wait and see how it performs first..
http://www.use.com/Mid_mount_grader_blade_for_John_Deere_140H3_9d58cf5108e9df16fadf
http://www.use.com/Mid_Mount_grader_blade_with_Scarifier_a8a32680c4bb2b8e6812
 

· Sears Fan
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1,280 Posts
Thanks guys. I don't mind a bit..., but how did you do it?
Since you already provided a link to the images, I opened up the link. I right clicked on the picture and selected "copy image location" and then came back to the forum page. In the reply box, you will see a yellow box with a mountain and a sun. Click on it, and paste the link in, and the image will appear in your post. Basically, if you have the link to the picture, you just have to surround the link with
.

example (remove quotes):

"
"

Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Okay, I think I got it. I didn't notice the "Mountain with Sun" image. Or it didn't ring any bells. I'll try again.
Oh, I don't know why it looks upside down, maybe when focused in too close we loose perspective??
 

· Tractor nut, general nut
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455 Posts
Looks good. Did you build it from scratch or adapt it from another use?

Another idea you might use for down-force... come off the side of your support bracket with a could of bolts, or even weld some plates on... when you need down-force, stand on them.:dunno: This would be a way to custom vary the amount of down-force up to your weight. Just an idea to consider since space above and behind your blade might be limited to add weight.

EDIT: Wouldn't it look better in JD Green?:thThumbsU
 

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21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks Alan, To Answer.., I had an old Simplicity blade that I was never going to use, cut it down, removed the angle mount/bracket, remounted it , found some steel, used the hangers from a 318 deck(which wouldn't work on the 140), fit everything together. The cutting edge is soft steel at this point(until my local Bobcat type can find a used piece of one), which is another reason for the scarifier, Hung it off etc. Did all with a 4.5" grinder with cutting wheels, and my Hobart 140 MIG.
Clearance is an issue, but small weights will clear on the back in vertical, but I only gain 20-30lbs. I may weld some foot pedals or some such on, but not wild about the idea. I have seen guys do footrests on the blade itself, but when angled, that is pretty close to a turning tire w/chains. The mount is pretty rigid, so varying the weight one side to the other isn't gonna help much as far as tilt goes , and I really planned on level cutting. The tilt option would be nice for some applications, but there are other methods/tricks to make that happen. I really just wanted to regrade my lane.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Thanks for all the kind words. It's not so fantastic, but in my experience a belly grader is much more forgiving than a front mount, or even a boxblade, however it has its limitations. I see in the Pittsburgh, western PA. area CL and Pennswoods ads, a fella has a Wheel Horse mid mount and he is asking $425. If I couldn't build one, I'd consider paying that.., for awhile...,then figure something else out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks, Yes they just kinda float along, my 140 does have a float position on the implement control, but that isn't what I mean. If the front tires go over some holes or rougher spots the blade takes them out and levels them before the critical back tires hit 'em. Unlike a front or rear blade.
 
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