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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 10323 that I picked up on junk day. The gas was draining out into the muffler and it would spew fuel out the exhaust until warmed up. Today I took the carb apart and cleaned it up. Reassembly went back together easy, and I replaced the fuel line with new hose and a inline filter. I also put somer foam under the primer bulb.
Once I got everything back together it fired up on the first pull and sounded good. Then it died. I could see little fuel in the filter, so I primed again and got it to fire again but it quickly died.
I took the air filter off and sprayed carb cleaner into the carb and it will run fine then it acts like it is running out of gas. The only thing I did differently is on the side of the carb, opposite the discharge side, there is a small brass screw. I read somewhere that this should be covered up and this one was not. I placed some duct tape over this. Would this be causing this to run out?
My float looked fine, and was not sticking. The thing runs like a champ until it runs out of gas. Any ideas?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will add that this ran fine until I took it apart, just had the problem with gas leaking overnight and shooting out of the exhaust. I think the float has been replaced. I checked to make sure it moved freely and has 1/2". In fact it was already set fine and I had to do nothing to it.
I am baffled at this. I did take out the main jet and spray with cleaner and air, looked very clean. I have checked to make sure the hose is not kinked and have trimmed off the excess so there is now fuel in the filter visible. Cleaner sprayed into the carb and it will fire right up, but runs out of fuel.
 

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2 stroke enthusiast
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If fuel is leaking from the air filter/muffler after it sits, it's the ever so common "needle and seat" that's either worn, or some dirt has made it's way through, keeping the needle tip from seating properly. If the carb was previously opened, these should have been replaced. Was there a fine mesh screen over the main jet(center of carb)? If not, you may have picked up some dirt. Always a good idea to prefilter the fuel with an inline installed in the fuel hose along with a fuel shutoff valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I never removed the float assembly and or needle and seat. There was a fine mesh screen over the jets and I did remove them and spayed air and cleaner down it.
As far as the float I never removed it, and I checked it and it moved freely. I did spray it while in place. I also added the paper fuel filter and a new section of fuel line. I did pull the tank back off, and the nipple going to the carb looked dry. I have to go to work now, but tomorrow I will remove the carb again and look at the needle and seat.
Do you remove the little rod that the float hinges on to get that off?
Also, what about the side of the carb where I placed the tape? Should I take that back off?

I also want to add that when it runs on carb cleaner, I tried pushing the primer bulb while it was running and it did not continue running. Seems like a simple fix, just have to know what I am doing.
 

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"The thing runs like a champ until it runs out of gas."

Hmmmm....lol, just kidding...
 

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Is the filter you installed for gravity feed carbs or fuel pump?
 

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Is the filter you installed for gravity feed carbs or fuel pump?

Not only that, but does the filter have an arrow on it? Is it pointed the correct way (towards the carb)?

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I looked for the 5065 Brigs filter, and the store did not have one. The Brigs filter I bought says 2 X the filter power, but it probably is for a pump. Maybe I will try the small red one with the brass screen.
 

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I looked for the 5065 Brigs filter, and the store did not have one. The Brigs filter I bought says 2 X the filter power, but it probably is for a pump. Maybe I will try the small red one with the brass screen.
I've been using the sintered bronze type filters from O'Reilly's. They have worked well for me and cost less than $3. They are in the small engine section.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Just got home from work, and looked at the filter package. It is a Briggs 691035 filter. Not sure if this is for pressurized systems or not. Might try to just hook the old hose up and try to start it with no filter tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Success!!!!

Apparently the problem was with the new fuel line, it was so stiff that it kinked on the bend, since I am waiting on my 90 degree fuel switch. Put the old more flexible hose in there temporarily with the Briggs 691035 filter and she fired right up. No surging, smokes a bit until warm, but after 5 minutes this thing runs like a champ. All I need now is a new decal along the fence side since all of the gas pretty much ruined it!!
I also did the foam element in the primer bulb. I am hoping that the needle and seat are fine as it looked like they have been replaced. Will keep everybody posted.
Thanks to this forum for the tips!!
 

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Success!!!!

Apparently the problem was with the new fuel line, it was so stiff that it kinked on the bend, since I am waiting on my 90 degree fuel switch. Put the old more flexible hose in there temporarily with the Briggs 691035 filter and she fired right up. No surging, smokes a bit until warm, but after 5 minutes this thing runs like a champ. All I need now is a new decal along the fence side since all of the gas pretty much ruined it!!
I also did the foam element in the primer bulb. I am hoping that the needle and seat are fine as it looked like they have been replaced. Will keep everybody posted.
Thanks to this forum for the tips!!
Spark and fuel......the two big gremlins.

Glad you found the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I guess the one thing I have learned is the Briggs 5065 filter has gone through at least two number changes, and the most current package will have the part # 691035. The filter itself will have the 4096 part number on the side.
 
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