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1025R FILB Owner
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299 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This past weekend was really the first time I was able to exercise the 3225 since I got it. The last time I had any seat time on it was probably 10 years ago, maybe a little more. Back then, if you stabbed either go pedal, it would lunge forward or back. Yank your foot off the pedal and it'd abruptly stop.

690 hours later, well not so much. Motor still feels plenty strong, and although the hydro was not like I remember, it did still handle the 4x8 utility trailer loaded with wood in the 1500 to 1800# range. With the diff lock and ag tires, it did everything I asked and then some. Now for the and then some part.

Easing off of either the forward or reverse pedal, it was slow to return to neutral, even at times not completely returning from either direction.

Lets assume that the plastic flange bushings are bad. I have no issues replacing them. It was cold yesterday, probably around 30 when I was outside working. The motor does have Mobil 1 5W30 in it. I fired up the tractor and let it run before taking it off of the trailer (as this was at the in-laws house). The transmission has the factory fluid, it is a clear, clean amberish color.

According to the factory service manual, there is a "neutral damper". There is also a neutral adjustment. However, being that it seems slow to return in either direction, I'm not thinking that is an issue.

In the not so distant future, I plan on replacing all of the diff fluid with Mobil 1 15w-50, a full synthetic oil as recommended by Hydro Gear on page 6 of their BDU10/21 service manual. But again, I am not convinced that it is a fuild problem either. It ran for 3 hours total yesterday and wasn't right the whole time. I could be wrong, but I am contributing worn bushings to the loss of max speed in both directions.

Anyway, I've tried to provide as much background info as possible. Any thoughts on what to look at are appreciated. Personally, I don't like breaking out the tools without a plan or at least an idea of what I'm looking for...
 

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1025R FILB Owner
Joined
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299 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Should also mention in all of my searching, I didn't see anyone using Mobil 1. That's fine, the manufacturer recommends a full synthetic 15w-50 as the best all weather performer so I don't mind trying it. At 8.79 per quart, that's not bad either. I'll buy enough oil and filters to change it twice and get a good flush. The first fluid change could happen as early as this weekend.

Anyway, I'm not thinking that will fix the current problem, just hopefully make it that much easier on the tractor with the cold weather approaching. May even look at some plugin heaters and a battery tender.
 

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Premium Member
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2,272 Posts
I went through this entire scenario earlier this year with my 2186 and BDU-10 Hydro.

Most likely, the hydraulic damper is binding up at some point near the neutral setting. Mine would return to neutral fine if I let my foot off the pedal quickly (putting a quick jolt on the damper), but if I let off real easy it would creep....and creep....and creep...in either direction.

What I'd recommend personally along with your fluid and filter change, is that you remove the sheetmetal (fender pan and floor pan) to access the hydro control linkage easily.

Here's an idea of how it will look (this is on a 2k Series Cub, but the concept is the same). Customer had complaints of a sluggish pedal return and a creeping in fwd and rvs. The hydraulic damper on this unit was a little wacky, but it got some attention while I was in there too, and as such it didn't even need replaced.



Take the damper off (quite easy with sheetmetal removed) and watch how the pedals operate without it. Clean it all up with compressed air, and get some white lithium grease at all the pivot points. They have a natural spring loaded action to them, but if you release very slowly and keep your ears and eyes focused on the linkages, you'll be able to see/hear if there's anything that's preventing the pedals from returning smoothly.

Do this, and I'd almost bet that it will at least improve slightly. This is also a great time to clean that hydro unit. :)
 

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1025R FILB Owner
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299 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Do this, and I'd almost bet that it will at least improve slightly. This is also a great time to clean that hydro unit. :)
Thanks. This evening I took it apart, did a bit of cleaning (as much as I could in the garage with the heat on), then applied some grease to the pivot points. It won't be until tomorrow evening before its back together and I try it out. Seems a bit smoother, just moving it by hand. :thThumbsU

While it was apart, I noticed that the transmission release bracket is cracked on one side, so moving the lever does nothing. Good to know because now it can be fixed before it is needed. Also found the battery connections were really dirty, so they were cleaned and some terminal grease added to hopefully ensure no starting issues this winter. Now the battery tender just needs to arrive...
 

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Premium Member
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2,272 Posts
Awesome, glad you got the chance to tear into it. It seems like a daunting task at first to remove all the sheetmetal, but it really isn't too bad.

I was under the impression that my fluid was in good shape when I got my 2186 - I considered an amber color to be indicative of fresh fluid at 200 hours. Nope. Under a light I could see all kinds of metallic sheen in the oil when I drained it. The new CC Fluid I put in it is clear on the dipstick now. It wasn't the original fluid and filter, because I've seen units with the originals still on them and even at 50 hours it looks HORRIBLE. So yours, like mine, has probably been changed at least once before (I'd hope so at 690 hours!), but cleanliness is the key to longevity of the hydro pump.
 
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