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Discussion Starter #1
I am going to build a hydraulic top link for my 2320 (well my friend that works at a machine shop is going to) and was wondering if someone like oh perhaps Andy may have the open and closed lengths of theirs as well as the cylinder size and extension. I already have the link ends I bought yesterday and am thinking a 2inch x 6 or 8 tie rod cylinder should work but am not sure.
 

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Hi

If you look at your existing top link you can see that it probably has about 2-3" travel. You wouldn't want it to be too short as the implement might hit some part of the tractor, so you would start with the shortest length of the stock top link as the total retracted length of your cylinder. You could make up a piece of metal to install as a substitute top link to determine how much travel you need. Install it on the imatch or implement then you will be able to judge if say a 6" cylinder stroke will be enough or perhaps too much travel.
The harder part will be plumbing of the hydraulic circuit and control valve, unless you are going to use one of the existing SCV circuits.
I know Andy is extremely busy with his landscaping business but I am sure he will respond soon.

Cheers
Brian
 

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I added a hydraulic top link to my BX a month or so ago and got all the parts including the cylinder from surplus center. They carry cylinders with swivel eyes at both ends. I measured my stock top link and it was 14" fully retracted and 21" fully extended so I bought a cylinder that measures 13" retracted with a 6" stroke, so full out is 19". Based on my reading, supposedly you do not often use the full out ability of your top link so I wasn't worried about the 2" shorter full out length, but after using it, I should have gone one size up to 15" fully retracted and 21" fully extended. I will eventually upgrade the cylinder but I'll live with it for now. The cylinder bore is 1.75" I believe (from memory).

One thing to note on the SC cylinders with swivel eyes is the eye at the fixed end of the cylinder is very close to the cylinder. Depending on your tractor top link bracket the cylinder may not swivel all the way from one side to the other as the cylinder body on mine hits the top link bracket. I get about 30* swivel to either side so it's good enough but not ideal.

Also, when you hook up your hoses, be mindful of any contact of the hoses and fittings with any part of your tractor or quick hitch, etc. I mounted my cylinder with the hose ports on top and didn't notice that when my 3PH was fully up, the 90* swivel fitting where the hose goes into the cylinder hit my top link bracket and got sheared right off. Fortunately, there was no damage to the cylinder. I bought a new 90* swivel fitting and then rotated the cylinder so the ports are on the bottom. Live and learn. Good luck with your project.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I added a hydraulic top link to my BX a month or so ago and got all the parts including the cylinder from surplus center. They carry cylinders with swivel eyes at both ends. I measured my stock top link and it was 14" fully retracted and 21" fully extended so I bought a cylinder that measures 13" retracted with a 6" stroke, so full out is 19". Based on my reading, supposedly you do not often use the full out ability of your top link so I wasn't worried about the 2" shorter full out length, but after using it, I should have gone one size up to 15" fully retracted and 21" fully extended. I will eventually upgrade the cylinder but I'll live with it for now. The cylinder bore is 1.75" I believe (from memory).

One thing to note on the SC cylinders with swivel eyes is the eye at the fixed end of the cylinder is very close to the cylinder. Depending on your tractor top link bracket the cylinder may not swivel all the way from one side to the other as the cylinder body on mine hits the top link bracket. I get about 30* swivel to either side so it's good enough but not ideal.

Also, when you hook up your hoses, be mindful of any contact of the hoses and fittings with any part of your tractor or quick hitch, etc. I mounted my cylinder with the hose ports on top and didn't notice that when my 3PH was fully up, the 90* swivel fitting where the hose goes into the cylinder hit my top link bracket and got sheared right off. Fortunately, there was no damage to the cylinder. I bought a new 90* swivel fitting and then rotated the cylinder so the ports are on the bottom. Live and learn. Good luck with your project.

Thanks for the info. I don't use a quickhitch so my install should be pretty straight forward (I hope). I haven't found any cylinders around here with swivels on them so that is why I bought the swivel ends and am getting a cylinder modified to work with them.
 

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Thanks for the info. I don't use a quickhitch so my install should be pretty straight forward (I hope). I haven't found any cylinders around here with swivels on them so that is why I bought the swivel ends and am getting a cylinder modified to work with them.
saskman49, good deal. Still, watch out for clearance issues at the tractor side. I was not the only one with interferance issues. I read of some others including JD owners that had to rotate the cylinder ports to the bottom side.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I was looking at SC's prices and they do ship to us across the great divide, so I think I will just order a cylinder from them.. Thanks again Chris for the idea.
 
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