[biker]

I'm sure someof you have seen my threads over in the homemade section. Question I have to all and Tudor. My tank! I don't know if it is good or bad to have this tank under the seat. Has this been done before? It seams to be the best place I have to fit it to. Would the tank be too low for the sundstrand 15 pump to work right. There maybe space above and behind the engin head but I know the heat of the engine would not be good. The weight would be up hig there as well. So I kinder don't like that. Kinder don't like the tank in front of the raditor because the fan will draw heat thru the hot raditor. So I don't know what to do. I'm still a ways off from the part but I need to see a ahead picture in my head before I build something that won't work.

Eighter way I go which way should I install my in tank filter. Or does it realy mater. Kinder would like to run it up and down. I know most tanks I have seen use the filter side ways. Would it hurt to go up and down?

With this sundstrand pump will I need a holding valve or does the pump have a built in holding valve. If I would need a holding valve how would the valve work in my system. I know the Case tractors have a holding valve.

Sure could use some help here so nothing will go out the back door!

 

[Hydronerd]

The oil tank should be near the pump. Why don't you put the gas tank under the seat and use a fuel pump.

You don't need a holding valve.

 

[TUDOR]

The hydro operating temperatures can get up there, depending on how hard it's working. Unless you expect subfreezing temps, I wouldn't suggest right under the seat without a substantial air gap.

I just checked back for tha pics of what you have currently starting with Post #101 in this thread. Behind the seat, above or behind the rear end, and a U shape beside and below the Sundstrand are 3 WAGs that come to mind. Close to the hydro if the oil level is lower than the pump. If the level is higher than the pump you have a bit more flexibility.

Another possiblity is as an integral part of the dash tower.

As a complete hydro, the Sundstrand requires a minimum of 4 quarts of oil in the reservoir. With a gear motor in the system, I would suggest at least double that. If you are going to use a hydraulic system to power the MMM, you can use the same tank, but it should be a few gallons bigger. It looks like you have some space between the Sundstrand and the hydraulic motor to accomodate a larger tank.

Vertical filters work on the pump supply line, especially if the reservoir oil level is below the intake port of the pump.

The Case tractors don't have a variable displacement pump that effectively shuts off the oil flow when in neutral.

 

[biker]

Thanks!

I'm planning on a fuel pump. Been told this would work a desical engine better.

Good I wont need a holding valve.

Does anybody have some pictures of dash made tanks or fuel tanks that are out there. I have been looking but haven't found any.

Yes Tudor it gets hot down here in the summer time. This machine will see 3 to 5 hours of running time. So I want to do what is best to make it last a while.

 

[biker]

First two pictures!! Not sure yet. All this may go out the back door. Haven't done anything but look at this for two month!!

The tank under the seat is 5 Gallons. I know this is going to be hot but there is an air gap there. Tell me guys what do you think. I can move it to the back and have the fuel tank under the seat. But I don't know how I would fuel this tank. I would reather have the hydraulic tank at the rear but I don't want a pain fueling this thing. I don't know!!! A tank at the back side of the engine! Would the heat from the engine make it harder to cool? I can't find any pictures of a console made tank fuel or hydraulic. I can't see far enought ahead with the body to make a tank blean with the body. But I do need to mount the seat and cut the Koubta steering colum down some to get a good feel of the steering wheel.

Tudor you there!! On the pump Is that the suction port on the pump. That port will come from the tank!! The bottom side port on the pump does that go to the cooler and then a spin on filter? Just making sure I'm right here.

You guys can hurt my feelings tell me what you think!!! Ask me any questions!!

 

[TUDOR]

Oil supply ports are at the bottom front corners, left and right sides of the hydro. Your choice for convenience.

From the pics, it appears that there is enough room to mount the filter base with an elbow right into the hydro with the filter hanging straight down. That will require a ball valve ahead of the filter if you ever change the filter without first draining the oil, and a secure mount for the filter base attached to the console tower.

Optionally, with the reservoir behind the seat, a secure mount for the filter base at the top of the side of the tank behind the tire will work whether you use the filter for the supply or the return line. The supply port should be low on the tank and the return port about 3/4 the way up towards the top to prevent aeration of the return flow. You may want sheet metal baffles in the tank to control sloshing if working on a grade and to promote circular flow from the return port to promote cooling.

Fuel tank under the seat using the filler neck and hose from a pickup truck or car to locate the fill point for your convenience.

Always remember that you will have to work on this critter at some point after it is all assembled. Try to make any necessary maintenance items mechanic friendly.

If required, a cooler goes in the return line of the implement hydraulics circuit. The case drain line from the hydro can be teed into the implement return line at any point, preferrably before the cooler, if one is used.

Starting to take shape and looking good! :fing32:

 

[biker]

Tudor,

I'm going to make a cardboard templet of a hydraulic tank to fit behind the seat. Thinking right now to make a size of 5In thick X 20In wide X 18In height. Mounting the spin on filter at the top side. Useing a 3/4 pipe nipple and pipe going in on the top side with baffles as well. This 3/4 pipe should I turn it down in side the tank and leave it up high or would the cause bubbles in the fluid.

Don't understand where the return fluid will come from the pump. Is that the fitting at the bottom of this pump. I know that side wont have pressure and right now the fitting at the bottom of the pump had a hose clamp with a rubber hose still on the pump. Is that where it goes back to the tank?

I know what you mean about building something you can work on without taking parts off you realy don't need too.

Thanks for your help!!!

 

[TUDOR]

If you're only using the tank for the hydro, you can cut it down in size considerably. Two gallons will work, 3 or more will be a bit overkill, but may eliminate the possible future need for an oil cooler.

A reservoir that is tall and thin will have better cooling characteristics than one that is short and wide.

20" wide X 18" high X 5" thick = 7.79 gallons (less 10%, or 0.79 gal, for air space)

You only need 1/2 of that volume.

The return port should be straight for a small reservoir like this and you won't need baffles if you make it 10"wide instead of 20" and use some of the remaining space for a return filter. Plumb the filter base directly into the return port about 14" up from the bottom of the tank with a short nipple.

The supply port should be close to the bottom and don't forget to install a drain on the bottom.

For the pump ports and their explanations, Page 5, posts 69 - 75 in this thread.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=267973

 

[biker]

Thanks Tudor,

Looks like I'm going over board here. I will down size my tank now. I may see if I can fit it in the front of my tractor. Starting to get fun now.

 

[biker]

Tudor,

Looking back in my thread the one you mention Cushion Valve. Do you think I will need one and how and where will it fit in the lines. Will I need two one for forward and one for reverse?

 

[TUDOR]

Tudor,

Looking back in my thread the one you mention Cushion Valve. Do you think I will need one and how and where will it fit in the lines. Will I need two one for forward and one for reverse?

Post #76, same thread as above. Hydronerd referrences the same question in post #75.

He definitely has a valid point, but I'm basing my answer on some pretty aggressive operating over more than a few years, and the fact that the Sundstrand is rated at 4500 psi. A momentary shock load at that pressure won't hurt the Sundstrand, but it will play merrry old he77 with a motor rated at 3000 psi. It needs something to keep the pressures from spiking too high, and cushion valves (or acceleration valves) fill the bill.

Your pump does not come equipped with acceleration valves. Those reside in the center section of a complete inline model, or the valve plate of the motor section of the split model. Yours is the pump section of the split model.

 

[biker]

Tudor,

I have to think about that. Is there something I could install in line with the motor?

 

[TUDOR]

That does install in line with the motor. In fact, in both lines. Each port gets a T fitting and the lines from the pump to the motor each enter and exit the respective T.

It's adjustable for pressure. The model that I linked is adjustable from 500 - 1500 psi, and another model (same price) is adjustable from 1500 - 3000 psi. All you'll need is 1500 psi, so either will do.

 

[biker]

Tudor do you have a part number to this valve form surpluss. Looks like I better plan for this.

 

[TUDOR]

Post #76 of the above thread.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-4019-50-L&catname=hydraulic

You should be taking notes as the information comes in. It'll save a lot of searching through your threads.

 

[biker]

Tudor. Thanks. You are right you have already told me this stuff and part numbers a dozzen time. Thanks for your help!

 

[biker]

Post #76 of the above thread.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-4019-50-L&catname=hydraulic

You should be taking notes as the information comes in. It'll save a lot of searching through your threads.

Tudor! Question here. This cushing valve you show here. You say I will need two of these one for both lines to the motor. Well the cushing valve has 4 ports in it. How will this work with my sundstrand pump and motor??

 

[TUDOR]

That one is all that you need. It's 2 cushion valves in one body.

It goes in both lines between the pump and the motor, so you end up with 4 hoses if you put it half way between them. The ports are labeled and there should be a schematic included for the proper hook-up.

Set the reliefs for max (1500 psi) pressure.

 

[biker]

Thank you so much Tudor. I need to get one so I can make space to fit this valve in the frame. Pictures coming soon.

 

[biker]

Tudor,

Another question and this one is late. Which way does the sunstrand pump needs to be turned. I don't know which way this engine turns. I hope this is not a problem!!!!