Wouldn't be the pump, once it goes up and you release the valve it's held thru the valve, the pump is taken out of the equation.
As long as there's no external signs of a leak, it could be bad seals in the cylinder or just leaking thru the valve spools which is more than likely........Mike

Piston seals are worn. Valve spools have very close tolerances which don't allow a sufficient leak down rate to be noticeable over a few minutes. Over a few days, maybe, but it wouldn't drop very much if the piston seals are in good condition. The resulting vacuum in the opposite end of the cylinder would also be hindering the loader from dropping.

Valve sets are expensive and not rebuildable if the metal is worn. Seals are cheap and not difficult to replace, and they are expected to wear out over time. Always suspect the seals first.

Bob and Mike, thank you for the prompt reply. Very much appreciated.

One last question...Is replacing the seals and possibly the valve sets something a novice mechanic can do, or will this require taking the tractor in to be serviced by a trained mechanic? In the past, I have done minor repairs, i.e., cleaning carburetors, fuel & oil filters, etc. I have never done any work on hydraulics.

Roger

I work under the assumption that if a person put it together, then I can take it apart, if I have the same or similar tools available.

Hydraulic components (such as valve sets) are made so that they can be removed and installed in the field with a minimum of basic tools. "In the field" could be anywhere from the middle of the front yard to several miles back in the bush. Getting down to the components may take additional tools. The important part is to label the hoses as you remove them so they go on the new component in the same place or it won't work.

Cylinder work is a bit different because there are several methods used to lock the cylinder together. In many cases, little more than a pair of snap ring pliers will be needed to take a cylinder apart, and a set of dentil pics to remove the old seals. In other cases, a set of Allen wrenches, a large pipe wrench, and a heating torch may be on the tool list. When in doubt, post pics of the rod end of the cylinder and someone should be able to assist.

Basic tool list

• Set of open end wrenches (Imperial and/or metric)
• Adjustable wrench (or socket set)
• Pliers
• Set of Allen wrenches
• Pipe wrench
• Snap ring pliers with a variety of tips
• Hammer and a set of drift punches
• Set of dentil pics
• Flat blade screwdriver
• Heating torch

Also a plentiful supply of clean lint free rags for cleaning parts. With hydraulics, dirt of any sort is the enemy when components are opened

Thanks, Bob! Your input was very helpful. I’ll keep ya posted on my progress. I will be working this project after the Christmas Holidays. I will do some online research in the interim.

Feb 2022 - UPDATE - I accomplished changing all fluids, which as expected was a good learning process. Now I know when the fluids were last changed so I can begin keeping track of the timeline for the next fluid change. The good news is that after changing the hydraulic/transmission fluid, the front loader no longer slowly drops. Once in position, the loader bucket and arms stay in place where set. I was hoping this would be the outcome. I suspect the fluid viscosity had greatly diminished over time, or it was simply dirty.