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Hydraulic lines on 54 blade won't connect to couplers on my 316

2461 Views 19 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  hoosierpete
I bought a 54 blade last week and hooked it up to my 316 today. I could not get the hydraulic quick-connects on the tractor to snap into place with the lines hooked up. It looks like the quick-connects on the tractor have a point-shaped valve while the hydraulic fittings on the blade use a ball-shaped valve. Could this be why the fittings won't snap into place?
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Did you release pressure on the circuit(s) first?



Andreas
Did you release pressure on the circuit(s) first?



Andreas
That's just a matter of pushing the lever forward (down/float position), correct? If so, yes I did release the pressure.
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You need to physically push the tractor outside piece back,probably has trash around the outside,the way u decribed the ends sounds right.
You need to physically push the tractor outside piece back,probably has trash around the outside,the way u decribed the ends sounds right.
I tried to pop it back with a screwdriver but couldn't. The couplers were full of crap but I got them cleaned out. I think it's got something to do with the valves inside...
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The outside will need to slide back ,put some PB blaster on all the parts that are supposed to move.let set and try again
Thanks guys. I guess I hadn't cleaned it enough. I bled the rest of the fluid out of the lines, sprayed more WD40 on the couplers, and worked them free. Got the lines hooked up and it's amazing how quick and easy the blade lifts and lowers. Big difference from my old 43 blade, that's for sure!
They go good together. Next step is to do a little welding and get the manual angling kit all hooked up.

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Micheal,did you reset the t handle in the back so the rear cylinder won't work?
Micheal,did you reset the t handle in the back so the rear cylinder won't work?
No, not yet. I still have another month of mowing left to do so I need to keep the deck down low. I was told that I don't really need a lockout valve for the 316 since it has more pressure going up front than a 318. If I don't get a lockout valve, will adjusting the t-handle eliminate the need for a valve?
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Stopping the cylinder from moving will be fine for the blade,the loader needs the lockout valve .I THINK
Stopping the cylinder from moving will be fine for the blade,the loader needs the lockout valve .I THINK
Ok, I'll keep that in mind.
Michael,
I had the same issue with the couplers on my x595 when I installed my loader for the first time earlier this year. I hosed the couplers down with WD40, worked the collars until they moved, and cleaned the insides thoroughly.

No issue since so I can only assume the couplers had never been used.



Andreas
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When I first got the 4-way blade I couldn't get two of the connectors to mate. I traded the male connectors with the two that worked and determined that something must be different about those two male fittings. A quick trip to my friendly Deere dealer for two new male fittings solved that problem.

When I swapped my Johnny Bucket and blade between my 317 and 318 I was having trouble with the connectors. Particularly frustrating since they had just been hooked up! I figured out that when sliding back the collars they would sometimes catch on the "bumper cover" where they were attached. No worries since I figured that out.
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All it took was a little WD40 to free them up and get rid of all the crap inside the couplers. I don't think they were ever used cause the tractor has only been used to mow it's whole life.
I'm a big fan of these coupler boots.
Not only do they keep the connections clean, but they also make it easy for this old boy to color-code the couplers on all my attachments (plow, blower, Buford Bucket, dethatcher, etc) so I don't hook them up backwards. The cost is totally worth the time and frustration they save IMHO.

John Deere Hydraulic Coupler Dust Plug - Black - M85099
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I'm a big fan of these coupler boots.
Not only do they keep the connections clean, but they also make it easy for this old boy to color-code the couplers on all my attachments (plow, blower, Buford Bucket, dethatcher, etc) so I don't hook them up backwards. The cost is totally worth the time and frustration they save IMHO.

John Deere Hydraulic Coupler Dust Plug - Black - M85099
Good thinking. I thought I may have to try using different color-coded plugs so I remember which line goes where. Didn't take me too long to figure out that there isn't any pressure with the lines hooked up backwards :hide: Oh well. This is the first tractor I've owned with hydraulics.
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I'm a big fan of these coupler boots.
Not only do they keep the connections clean, but they also make it easy for this old boy to color-code the couplers on all my attachments (plow, blower, Buford Bucket, dethatcher, etc) so I don't hook them up backwards. The cost is totally worth the time and frustration they save IMHO.

John Deere Hydraulic Coupler Dust Plug - Black - M85099
Good thinkin'. Mine arrived yesterday with my complimentary beer cozy. I got two full sets of four different colors, for the 317 and the 318.
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Hey Michael:

If you have the mower height adjustment to it's highest point the rock shaft will not move very far, there will be just a slight delay. The rock shaft cylinder is the master it gets the oil first. If the male connectors have a ball instead of the pointed end they are probably an after market fitting, they should work fine but if you have a problem I would look at them as they may be cause a problem, I used to buy some and had a couple of them fail, for 2 to 3 bucks more I now only go with John Deere Fittings.
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