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Discussion Starter #1
I have had a leak on this joint for 4 years, been capturing filtering and refilling. Now i am losing a quart a week. Any quick fix ideas to seal this from the outside? Taking it off to see why it is leaking seems like a big job, no clearance from the axle.
 

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Can't tell from the picture what type of connection is is. Also hard to tell where on the tractor it is.

If it is a National Pipe Thread (NPT) joint then you might get away sealing it with teflon tape. Just be sure that no pieces of the tape make their way into the system.

If it is an O-Ring Boss (ORB) connection (Doesn't look like it to me but the o-ring might have deteriorated to the point that there's not enough left to be visible in the picture) then a new o-ring would fix it.

If you told us what model tractor it is and where on the tractor it is we might be able to help you more.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry, I neglected the year/model on this post. It is a 1977 335 Industrial. This photo was taken from under the tractor, the elbow that leaks is on the right side of the differential. (On the top of the photo you can see where the tractor separates.) The hard hydraulic line goes all the way to the pump on the left side of the tractor. Not even sure ho this line can be removed to put tape or o-ring on the fitting.
 

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I am not familiar with this type of pump or lines, but it looks like a stupid solution. Why did they not put both ports on the underside?

Anyhow, if you look at the diagram here:
https://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html?csid=d6b7d8635f0b5aecb3a1063d6d64fda7&sl=EN&currency=#epc::mr54999ar665990
you see that the thin pipe (#29) (attached on the underside) is the pressure line from the pump. The thicker pipe (#34) is the suction line to the pump, from the rear axle housing.

Maybe the leak can be fixed from the outside, but I doubt that it will last for any longer period.

The elbow that leaks is #35. As it looks, in order to get that out and replace the o-ring (#37) you will, at least, need to remove the brake pedals. Maybe it will be possible to unscrew the elbow then, it is hard to tell from the picture. If the brake pedal shaft is in the way, you have to withdraw the pedal shaft from the left side of the rear axle.

Are you sure that it leaks between the housing and elbow? Or is it in fact leaking between the pipe and elbow? If the latter, it would be an easier fix. Make sure that the oil is not leaking from above the elbow and runs down the side of the housing.
 

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OK, now I see what line that is. The bracket, number 42 in the drawing, needs to be loosened so that the line can be moved back and forth, and then the line can simply be pulled from the elbow as it is only held in place by the o-ring, number 36. Then you can unscrew the elbow from the housing. The connection from the elbow to the housing is an O-Ring Boss (ORB) connection, where the other o-ring, number 37, provides the seal where it is currently leaking. You should order replacements for both o-rings, 36 & 37, before taking it apart, and then once you put it back together using the o-rings it should no longer leak. The o-ring part numbers are:

#36 - Part No: 134372 - Description - o-ring, 1.109" ID x .139" Thk
#37 - Part No: 87057S95 - Description - o-ring, 90 Duro, 1.250" ID x .139" Thk

You should install the new o-ring #37 onto the threaded side of the elbow and thread the elbow into the housing first, then insert the o-ring #36 into the elbow as there is a recess inside that the o-ring #36 rides in, and then slide the line back into the elbow. If you put o-ring #36 onto the line first and try to slide it in it won't fit and the o-ring will simply slide up the line as you insert the line into the elbow (don't ask why I know this).
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I will check where it leaks again, but I am pretty certain about the location. That hard line has a little movement a little when I grab it and move it and I see the oil coming out at the elbow there.

If I manage to get the break pedals out of the way I will still need to disconnect the line from the fitting before I can get the elbow out - I think. It is so strange that it is a really long and winding one piece hard line.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
NR, your explanation helps with how to move the line, that's good! Do you you think I need to remove the break pedals to be able remove the elbow?
 

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Sorry, I was fooled by the picture and the diagram over the rear axle housing:
https://partstore.agriculture.newholland.com/us/parts-search.html?csid=d6b7d8635f0b5aecb3a1063d6d64fda7&sl=EN&currency=#epc::mr54999ar298807

It sure looks like there is not room enough to unscrew the elbow, because of the pedals/pedal shaft.


I thought you had to remove the pump in order to disconnect the line in that end, and then be able to pulll it out of the elbow. But, perhaps, the line may be more flexible than you think.
 

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NR, your explanation helps with how to move the line, that's good! Do you you think I need to remove the break pedals to be able remove the elbow?
I'm not familiar with the exact placement of the pedals and their linkage relative to the lines on that model, so you may need to remove them, but I can't say for certain. Also, that's low enough down that you're going to lose a lot of fluid when you pull the line out so I would drain it from the plug in the bottom first.

I thought you had to remove the pump in order to disconnect the line in that end, and then be able to pulll it out of the elbow. But, perhaps, the line may be more flexible than you think.
I have a '73 4000 that has the same style of pump on the left side of the engine and the same style lines. As long as I remove the bracket (#42) the line can move enough to pull it out of the elbow without having to disconnect the other end of the line from the pump.

Before anyone jumps in to say that my 4000 shouldn't have that style pump and lines, it is because it has the S-O-S transmission and therefore does not have the normal 4000 style independent PTO in the rear axle housing, so it doesn't need the dual gear pump in the right side of the center housing. Instead the independent PTO clutch is inside the transmission and is controlled by the S-O-S internal transmission pump.
 
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