hydraulic driven snow blower

I remember your home built tractor. Is it the same blower; if so, add a link to this thread. What is the HP of the Kubota and at what speed? I think your going the right direction. PAL like anyone else, always use the most appealing numbers; that doesn't represent true power. This motors good for maybe 15HP continuous. I think you need more HP. Also, as Tudor was thinking, was the blower intended for 540rpm of a Ag PTO drive?

If your lucky, PAL may have an obsolete Char-Lynn disc valve motor at a bargain price; like this one:

PS You won't find any in Toronto, I bought all of them.:sidelaugh

http://www.mytractorforum.com/296-hydraulics/354674-pump-size.html
Here it is the link Hydronerd. This snowblower is a MF751 ,and came with the option of a speed reducer if going on the front of a tractor , Stright to the input shaft if going on the back of the tractor for 540 rpm. That 540 rpm seems a little slow if we need 4000-5000 sfm on the impeller , mine being 18"= 2544 sfm ,if my math is correct.
I don't know what the difference is between a spool or disc valve motor, but the disc looks like more rpm and torque. PA does have the disc valve motors on from time to time, so I could wait a couple months yet.
The kubota engine puts out about 24hp @ 2400 rpm ,and that is were I will run it at.

i don't know what the difference is between a spool or disc valve motor, but the disc looks like more rpm and torque. Pa does have the disc valve motors on from time to time, so i could wait a couple months yet.

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$429-$159= $270.00

Or, like a GEO engine VS a Kubota

I have no clue what the gearbox ratio is, but you could use something like this: http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/19-8-gpm-hydraulic-gear-pump/A-p8375453e . If you look in the small print, it can be made into a uni - direction motor. Get two of them the same size, use one as a pump and the other as a UD motor. Setup like this maybe more efficient than a g-roller motor.

The problem with that idea is that output is 1:1 (in theory) with input. While there is some output rpm loss due to efficiency ratings, it's not enough to make up for the pto gear reduction down to 540 rpm.

One advantage of using hydraulics is that gear boxes can often be eliminated. The pump can be sized for the engine capability and the motor can be sized for the input required at the implement, not at the point of PTO connection to the implement. Most snow blower impellers turn faster than 540 rpm.

TUDOR said:

...One advantage of using hydraulics is that gear boxes can often be eliminated. ...

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Yes, the best selling feature of Low speed high torque G-rotor motors! Eliminate the gear box and eliminate its COST! Efficiency, however, is G-rotor's Achille's Heal. For a 54" blower I think Rick needs every bit of the 24Horses. Gear boxes are 95-98 percent efficient. Since the gear box already exist there's no cost advantage for the G-rotor. In fact, the gear motor is a lot cheaper. One advantage of the G-rotor is it could be used for other 540rpm implements. But the high speed motor could be used on a finishing mower.

One caution Rick; I would use an open center valve to run the motor, and let it coast to a stop. If this would be a safety issue to you, then use the G-rotor, with a closed center and cross-line relief's for braking.

If it works, Rick can buy me a Beer with the money he saves, next time I'm out his way. If it doesn't work, never mind. :hide:

Hydronerd, I tend to agree with you on the horsepower requirements. There is a substantial loss (25-35%) in power transmission with those components.

I lean more to the closed center spool (for cylinders) and cross line reliefs, rather than the open center spool (for motors), though. Should the blower eat something that it shouldn't, you really want those reliefs in the circuit, and you want to stop it immediately if you notice that it is about to eat something it shouldn't.

Open center with respect to uni - directional motor. If a closed center is used; the first sudden stop will blow out the shaft seal. Not the end of the would, but messy.

My blowers have eaten several things over the years, like newspapers, extention cord, and welcome mats. They usually stop pretty quick by them selves. ?

30 GPM Pressure Compensated Adjustable Flow Control | Princess Auto
What about this valve for control of the blower?

Starting to add up prices , getting scary. motor $ 280.00 Valve $100.00, tank,
filter, hose, and fittings est $300.00.
Maybe I should go with a belt drive like this.