hyd pump/3pt lift

You could make one that mounted under the frame with a subframe like the mule drive if you really wanted to. Why do you need a bigger pump than will fit, if you don't mind me asking? On the short hood Pony loader tractors like mine there is tons of room for a pump. Which still didn't keep some idiot from scabbing one on the front, not the bottom, but the SIDE of mine! :banghead3 Cut the sheet metal up to do it. :fing20:

With some welding and fab work you could make a bottom mount lift cylinder easily. Here's a picture of a tractor with one. You can see it on the left under the frame.

If you can, post some pictures. What loader so you have? Your tractor comes up as 1976. And, if you need or would like any help designing it, I'd be glad to help. :trink39:

Chaz

Found my book, didn't know the hyd pump on long hoods is where the starter/gen used to be! If you have room in between the loader I'd mount it on the side like on the early tractors, like Ryan said. Or, you could mount it underneath if the loader mount isn't in the way, then you would have tons of room and have a less convoluted subframe.

Still, what's wrong with the original pump?

Chaz

Here is soom pics of how I mounted a cyilinder on my Jim Dandy.

Hey Chad, that's my MM painted PK you are showing there! Neat! Yes, I did put that cylinder underneath, had to make that whole hitch. Copied another I had. I also had to weld the heavy metal underneath on frame for the 3pt arms to mount. Also need to have new flatbar welded to rockshaft to go "down" so to hook on cylinder. Same cylinder as the side one. Many with cylinder on side didn't have 3pt, just a bar lift frame that went way to front to swivel. So, depends on how old your model is. My pump is on the side. Used 31" belt to out to it. Might have another pix I could post with that, have to look. Otherwise pump is on top of bellhousing if you don't have anything else there. Belt comes off/thru the bellhousing on top.

Here's a few pix of my side pump, hard to see, but you get idea. One shows the cylinder if you look close on rear shot, way up high in pix. It is black and shiny metal.

Probably, the 1st thing I need to is take into a hyd shop and ck it over. The FEL doesn't want to lift much, and breakout on the bucket is on the lite side.
Guys talk about needing ballast for the FEL. I sure don't. Nothing leaks, but the FEL will creep down. Cyl seals, valves, weak pump? With regard to moving the pump, just seems crazy to me, that I have to pull the engine to change a belt.:thanku:for all the input.

Hi,

I like the idea of a front mounted hyd pump that operates via a lovejoy coupling inline with the standard pto stub shaft. This will require fab of a mounting plate for the pump that will connect to the tractor frame. I would expect that a hole would need to be cut in the grill for the pump to extend through. Maybe with some modification of the pto stub shaft and careful engineering it could be kept inside the grill.

With this concept you could add a second pump for the fel without adding another belt in the bellhousing and keep the smaller pump for the 3 pt.

chuckbob

My friend mounted a pump on the front of his tractor.It runs the loader and the power steering.The pump was from a 1650 Snapper Hydrostat.

Hey G.L.! :howdy: Been a while since you sent me those pictures, didn't even know you were on here. It's Chaz with a Z by the way, wish it wasn't, but that's what it says on my drivers license. Pictures and manual scans you sent were a big help by the way, seeing how they originally had the FEL.

Elliot,

Check what Bob said. Seals may be gone in the cylinders, too. Took mine apart and all that was left was crumbled bits of leather. Leaking down wouldn't be a pump problem, so that isn't your problem. I am going to rebuild mine, found the 2" piston cup seals for $5 each at McMaster Carr. Most people have extra belts tied up in the housing, that way you don't have to take the tractor apart every time. These tractors aren't hard to take apart, anyway.

-Chaz