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The drive wheels will tug at the steering wheel which one then instinctively hold the steering wheel tighter. Put a spinner (suicide knob) on it.
View attachment 2465075
Yeah, one of the first things I did. But mine is on the right side.

BTW, I paid $23 for Carlisle Snow Hog 16 x 6.50 x 8. Prices are volatile and change quite a bit.
2465094


These wheels are $20 each shipped. Have the right size bore and key. Offset needs adjustment to spacers and you need to supply the key.
8" x 4 1/2" Husqvarna Tractor Rim 3" Hub Keyed Drive Wheel for 16x6.50-8 Tire | eBay

8" x 4 1/2" Husqvarna Tractor Rim 3" Hub Keyed Drive Wheel for 16x6.50-8 Tire
2465093


I'd buy 5 so you can swap in a replacement.
 

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Yeah, one of the first things I did. But mine is on the right side.

BTW, I paid $23 for Carlisle Snow Hog 16 x 6.50 x 8. Prices are volatile and change quite a bit.
View attachment 2465094

These wheels are $20 each shipped. Have the right size bore and key. Offset needs adjustment to spacers and you need to supply the key.
8" x 4 1/2" Husqvarna Tractor Rim 3" Hub Keyed Drive Wheel for 16x6.50-8 Tire | eBay

8" x 4 1/2" Husqvarna Tractor Rim 3" Hub Keyed Drive Wheel for 16x6.50-8 Tire
View attachment 2465093

I'd buy 5 so you can swap in a replacement.
Thanks, this is exactly what I was looking for!
 

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My son has been mowing and his biggest complaint is the mower is hard to steer, wears him out. Any ideas on how to change that?
LLigetfa's recommendation to install a "Spinner (suicide knob)" is a great suggestion and will help allot.

Another possible way to help reduce steering fatigue might be to change the steering wheel height.
On my R322T AWD machines,
the Steering Wheel Height Adjustment is located on the steering column just below the steering wheel.

 

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Judging by the pics, yes, it's a swivel fitting and the flats are for tightening it into the housing. The small hex outboard of that point is to hold the swivel end while the flare nut is tightened.

Swivels are used extensively in hydraulic systems for ease of assembly.
Thank you Allergic and Tudor, I had exactly the same problem with dripping from that hydraulic fitting on the front transmission. My wife and daughter notice the trail of drips I left crossing our driveway, otherwise I may not have noticed until the next time I went to mow and found the pool under the mower.

As a reward, I'd be happy to ship to one of you the extra skid plate to protect the rear. I ordered the two piece kit for front and rear. They sent only the rear, and when I asked them to send the front, they sent both and didn't want to bother with a return.

The lower left one in the diagram.
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Murky,

Glad that worked out for you! Thanks so much for the kind gesture. I don't usually get my rider into any situations that are hard on the hydro lines. :) Tudor was really the expert behind that one, I just turned the wrenches, so I'll defer to him!
 

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Murky,

Glad that worked out for you! Thanks so much for the kind gesture. I don't usually get my rider into any situations that are hard on the hydro lines. :) Tudor was really the expert behind that one, I just turned the wrenches, so I'll defer to him!
Hmm, I think Tudor may not have one of these riders, just very helpful. Also looks like he may be in Canada, unless its a city with the same name in the US and Canada, like Vancouver, WA which is only about 300 miles from Vancouver, BC.

If somebody else has a use for it, I'm willing to send it for postage.
 

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Info for anyone thinking about these shields: They do protect the transmission housing, however the hydraulic lines forward of the rear transmission housing are still exposed, should you catch then on high ground.
 

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Hmm, I think Tudor may not have one of these riders, just very helpful. Also looks like he may be in Canada, unless its a city with the same name in the US and Canada, like Vancouver, WA which is only about 300 miles from Vancouver, BC.

If somebody else has a use for it, I'm willing to send it for postage.
Nope, no rider. Just trying to help out.

Sault Ste Marie Ontario/Michigan is the only land border crossing for over 350 road miles in either direction. The two cities are separated by the St Mary's River which is about a 1/2 mile wide between the two downtown shopping areas.The border between Canada and the US is approximately in the middle of the river.
 
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Not sure if it has been mentioned but you might want to check the two bolts the engine hood hinges on. They are shoulder bolts that ideally should have a high grade steel washer for the smaller threaded part to seat against but they cheaped out and just jam them up against the soft metal that covers the muffler. The hole in the muffler cover is oversized so it does not provide the proper surface area to seat against.

Without the washer, the bolt cannot be tightened without it punching through the soft metal and then the shoulder is too short for it to hinge smoothly. I didn't have a high grade washer on hand so ended up using a washer which is also too soft but at least the hole was not oversize.

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Are you sure that it was the broken belt brake causing the belt to break and not a broken belt that caused the belt brake to get broken? (There's a tongue twister)
I ask this because my rider doesn't have the belt brake and it stays in the pulley as long as the belt is in the groove when the spring tensioner handle is put in place.
Sorry I haven't posted here in a few years. Been busy. I've been using my R322T since 2012.

As for the blade brake ....
I ditched mine entirely a few years back. After it had broken I replaced it. Then I noticed that blade belts that had lasted for 3 years began to shred. I found that when going up and down fairly steep ditches the brake would shred the belt. No adjustments or changes to the brake layout would help. The motion of the deck tipping up sharply was the culprit. After removing the blade brake I've had the same belt for more than 4 years. And I find I really don't need the blade break as it's only a legal precaution by the manufacturer. They have to sell them with the brake in some communities. The blades slow down and stop fairly quickly anyhow. I'd rather not shred a drive belt every few months!
 

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Husqvarna Rider 322T
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I am having trouble walking the front belt on the mower (not the deck) onto the pulley at the front of the mower. For clarity, the mower has three belts. My deck has an additional belt. So we’re talking four belts for a mower/deck assembly. The belt in question is the front belt of the mower. 535 41 19-01 BELT. Does anybody have some useful hints for getting this over the front pulley before I’m tempted to help it with a BFS (screwdriver)? Thanks!

By the way I’m at 90 uneventful (which is good) hours except for the middle belt on the mower. I’m on 4 or maybe 5. I attribute this (perhaps I’m wrong) to mowing at normal speed through swales and other elevation changes. I speculate that it causes the mower brake to engage and create heat/friction. I don’t think the front deck likes the deflection. How could it? Thanks!

Are you remembering to lower the cut height adjustment handle all the way down before you lift the mower deck? May be a silly question, but I've forgotten to do that once or twice. :)
 

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Are you remembering to lower the cut height adjustment handle all the way down before you lift the mower deck? May be a silly question, but I've forgotten to do that once or twice. :)
I've never done that on my Rider 155AWD or my 322T. Is that in the user manual? I don't remember reading that, and thought I'd read the manual. I know you're supposed to lower throttle to midway before engaging deck. I rarely do that either.

Edit: Oh, you mean one should lower the height adjustment before lifting the deck into service position? You need to do that in order to disconnect the rod. I thought you meant before lifting the deck to disengage the mower with the engine running.
 
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