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Would anyone who has bought chains for the factory tire size mind sharing a link to the ones you got? I'm not sure how to size chains and I'm not finding much for the factory 165/60-8 tires. Thanks.
165/60-8 = 16x6.50-8 Nominal size.

165 = Tread width in millimeters. (6.496")

60 = Aspect ratio (Tread width X 0.60 = tread to rim height.)

Tire diameter (height) = 2 X Aspect ratio X Tread width + Rim diameter. (15.8")
 

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The only thing I know is that you must put chains on 4 wheels if you add chains.
Chains can be added to two wheels if the pressure is lowered to compensate for the difference in rolling circumference. (That's about 2 psi. One psi at rated pressure is roughly 1/4" difference in the rolling radius.)

It may take some effort to synchronize the drives on concrete, but the front tires will skid on the snow with no damage to the hydros if the synchronization isn't exact.

My understanding is that there is up to a 5% discrepancy allowed for synchronizing. That's a bit over 3/4" in tire diameter.

Even rocket science is based on simple math.
 

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It may take some effort to synchronize the drives on concrete, but the front tires will skid on the snow with no damage to the hydros if the synchronization isn't exact...
There is considerably more weight on the front tires due to the weight of the snow thrower cantilevered out front even when not raised due to the lift assist springs. I had opted not to go with the Kova plow and instead installed a Swisher that is much heavier. My thinking was that I didn't want to adjust the lift assist springs every time I switched between mower deck and plow. That took so much weight off the back wheels that I had to adjust the springs. Keep in mind that I have the R322TX which does not come with the counterweight that slips over the rear bumper. There will likely still be more weight on the front tires.

All that said, I've reviewed my security camera footage and could not see any significant loss of traction while plowing snow. With the blade up however, the steering is less responsive. I've noticed the same thing with the mower deck when on a steep grade. IMHO, the counterweight should not be optional.
 

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Now my snowthrower have Electric deck lift ?. 4’’ actuator 270lbs 10mm/sec , bolt under the seat ! 16’’ wire that go on a 2’’ pulley ( bolt behind the frame where its write 105db). And return at the place where is attached the chain! Take about 7-8 secondes for complet travel , but need only to lift 2-3’’ before reverse or turn ! Take about 3 secondes ! I have attached a winch switch to the other box I already have ( lift and tilt for the ‘ chute ‘ , kit from berco ) . Really happy
 

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Take about 3 secondes !
Three seconds does not sound like much until you have to wait that long many times over. Try saying "one one thousand, two one thousand, three one thousand" in a normal cadence to get a feel for what three seconds is. One can probably lift the handle manually in about a tenth of that time.

Nice job! I hope the three second wait does not bother you as it would me.
 

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Three seconds does not sound like much until you have to wait that long many times over. Try saying "one one thousand, two one thousand, three one thousand" in a normal cadence to get a feel for what three seconds is. One can probably lift the handle manually in about a tenth of that time.

Nice job! I hope the three second wait does not bother you as it would me.
I have to agree with this. A couple of seconds here and a couple more there starts to get old after a while, and adds up over a full day.

Generally, while lifting the blower, the tractor isn't moving. It's not that both can't occur at the same time, it's just that the operator has a difficult time splitting his attention between watching where he's going while in reverse and watching to make sure the blower actually rises the correct amount.
 

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I don’t need to wait 3 seconde before go reverse. As soon I stop , I can go reverse and in the same time I lift the deck , and 1 feet lafter the deck didn’t touch the ground and didn’t bring back the snow. For have the deck lift in 1 seconde , you will need hydrolic that will cost you 1000$ ! It’s work very nice like that and do the job for under 100$ !
 

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Generally, while lifting the blower, the tractor isn't moving. It's not that both can't occur at the same time, it's just that the operator has a difficult time splitting his attention between watching where he's going while in reverse and watching to make sure the blower actually rises the correct amount.
I don't have the snow thrower attachment but rather a snow blade. I usually lift the blade while still driving forward and so can reverse right away. Sometimes I wish there was a halfway detent so I don't have to lift it as high. The electric lift would achieve essentially that as you can stop it anywhere you want. With the manual lift, I can move the hairpin at the bottom of the chain to reduce the height it has to lift to reach the detent. It also saves having to reach down as far to grab the lever.

Working the lift while driving does mean steering with one hand and to that end I plan to install a suicide knob.
 

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If you can fabricate the right setup, a winch also does a good job of lifting, quickly. It does for the plow attachment I made for one of my large walkbehind mowers.

The biggest difference for me was to mount the control for it in a good spot. Originally, I had just used the pipe clamp to mount it, but that required me to lock the handlebar controls, then work the switch, then return my hand to the control. Didn't take long for that to get really annoying (and also it would tend to loosen up and then flop around), then I made a bracket to hold it in just the right spot, so I can keep my hands on the controls, and work the switch with my thumb at the same time.
 

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FYI: I made an extension for the lever to raise and lower the Kova snowthrower.
Dan, is that sched 40 or sched 80 1 - 1/4" PVC pipe and how close was the fit? Sched 80 has a smaller ID than sched 40 so wondering which would provide a better fit. I suppose I could make a mandrel out of wood that is the exact same size as the metal handle and stretch the heated PVC over it.

It looks to be the colour of PVC conduit. Sched 80 PVC water pipe is usually a darker grey.
 

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Link to Workshop Manual


Today I came across this link for a Workshop Manual and thought I'd share this link
in case anyone is looking for WSM.
The Workshop Manual is for Rider 316T, Rider 316T/s AWD, and Rider 316TXs AWD.
I've had a copy of this WSM for a couple of years after getting it through my local Husqvarna Dealer.
It's what I've been using when working on my R322T AWD machines.
So far the only major difference I've noticed is the Rider 316T AWD has a Kawasaki engine.
The transmissions are basically the same as on the R322T AWD.
 
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