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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently got a husky r322t from my dad trade for a JD F525. 120 hours on the husky. This machine can really pull the hills I have 30+ degree. The issues i have are the mowing quality and having to use choke to start even after mowing for an hour. Full choke to start then no choke right away. Seems strange to me. 112 deck and it cant seem to make a good cut. if I have to cut 1" off the grass its patchy. My dad says its been this way since he bought it new. He was fed up with it. Blew the mower belt first week he used it then had to wait a month for a new one from the dealer. Sharpened the blades and no difference except they dulled after a couple cuts. Adjusted the hydrostat drive, it would go faster in reverse than forward. That made a bit of a difference in getting around.

Any ideas where to start on this machine. I like the AWD for my hilly yard but need a better quality of cut. Looking at new blades but with 120 hrs I would think they should be fine.
 

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Using the choke when up to operating temp affects my R322T (2013 build/215 hours) as well.
The previous owner mentioned it , and I just consider it a quirk.....I have a '78 Kawasaki KZ750 twin that has the same quirk.
My R322T has the 48" side discharge deck......other than wishing I could raise the mowing height another inch, it does a nice job on my unflat yard.
Personally, I wouldn't sweat the choke.
I wish I had some answers for your cut quality issue.


Rex
 

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There is a trouble shooting guide for uneven mowing on the very last page of my Workshop Manual.
If you need a copy of the Workshop Manual, there is a link on post #3146 on that really long R322T thread here on MyTractorForum
 

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Are the blades on correctly?..is the deck even?...are the tires inflated properly?...just a couple things to look into...it would be a shame to just trash the thing
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Im not to concerned with the choke. Just doesnt seem right. Its the same as my honda generator, needs choke always. to start. Did some reading of the manual. Found the blade height was way off. Anything below setting 6 it was laying on the floor. Got that readjusted. explains why I had to cut on setting 9 or 10. Now I have some adjustment. Tires are good/ deck is parallel. resharpened blades and they seem to be in correctly. Whether they are the correct blades im not sure. These came when it was originally bought. There is about a 1" gap between spinning blades. Once the rain stops ill try it out.

It almost seems this machine was never properly setup when sold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Did a few more adjustments. Used my laser tach on the engine and it was maxed out at 2700rpm. Adjusted the throttle cable to give me the 3000rpm its speced at. Bent the reverse pedal up so it doesn't bottom out on the floor.

Mowed the lawn for 3 hours and it seems to cut way better. Might even put the mulching plug in and see how it goes. I think the increased engine RPM made a difference. Im thinking the blades spinning faster made a huge difference. Also being able to lift the deck a bit higher as I like my lawn a bit taller than the max would allow before. (only at setting 6 now instead of 10).

Might have to look at the governor linkage. It seems to bog down a bit to easy. Is there any write up on adjusting this?

Thanks for the ideas and where to find that manual. I did have to laugh at the page that shows how the dealer is supposed to assemble and adjust. I think they missed the adjust check marks.
 

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Using the choke when up to operating temp affects my R322T (2013 build/215 hours) as well.
The previous owner mentioned it , and I just consider it a quirk.....I have a '78 Kawasaki KZ750 twin that has the same quirk.
I have similar issues with the carb on my R322T (under 200 hours) with 40H777 engine. Always needs choke, unless the engine was running within ~1 minute or so (I don't know the exact time, haven't tested it carefully). It will also randomly start running rich sometimes. I've spent so much time fiddling with the carb...

I got frustrated and gave up with the original carb, and I replaced it will a new genuine Briggs carb. Seemed to help cold starting, but it still needs choke all the time and still randomly runs rich. My theory is that the carb doesn't tolerate the vibration conditions well, and will get overfilled with fuel. I added a fuel shutoff valve over the winter, so I can shut off the fuel flow and let the carb clear out any excess fuel when it starts running rich. It worked well when I tried it recently, though I've only done it once since I installed the valve.
 

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For you guys with the hard starting Briggs when hot, I always move the throttle to idle for a few seconds before turning off the key. I also move the throttle to about 3/4 full to restart. Works most of the time.
When my wife is mowing with the R322T, she just stops and shuts the engine down at full speed. The engine always needs to be choked to restart then.
My mower has the 40H777 engine as well.
If you have the plastic intake manifold on your engine, get rid of it and install the aluminum manifold. The plastic ones warp and cause all kinds of running issues!
You will need the Torx socket as well.
Briggs Order
797503 manifold
Torx socket Tool #19455

 

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For you guys with the hard starting Briggs when hot, I always move the throttle to idle for a few seconds before turning off the key. I also move the throttle to about 3/4 full to restart.
With the automatic choke, I get the best results lowering the throttle so the RPMs are in the middle on the tach before I shut it off and then leave the throttle there when restarting. Any lower and the engine stalls when restarting.
 

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With the automatic choke, I get the best results lowering the throttle so the RPMs are in the middle on the tach before I shut it off and then leave the throttle there when restarting. Any lower and the engine stalls when restarting.
I was referring to the manual choke, thanks for the info on the auto choke as well.
 

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I was referring to the manual choke, thanks for the info on the auto choke as well.
Yes, I know. What I find is that it is almost impossible to accurately set the throttle position without the engine running. It is just too touchy. That is why I set it to half with the engine running and then leave it there for the next start.
 

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If you have the plastic intake manifold on your engine, get rid of it and install the aluminum manifold. The plastic ones warp and cause all kinds of running issues!
You will need the Torx socket as well.
Briggs Order
797503 manifold
Thank you so much for this part number! I replaced the crappy plastic one with another crappy plastic one and I was clearly wasting my time!
 
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