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Discussion Starter #1
I traded a non working .22 rifle for this non working Murray. I've spent about $100 on it so far.

New Front Tires
New Fuel Lines
New Fuel Filter

One of the tabs that the belt guard hangs from was broken off so that needed to be welded back on, the grille is shredded, and the battery is completely dead.

I spent about 2 hours and a whole can of carb cleaner on getting it running. The previous owner had been running it without an air filter or gas cap. The gas was pee yellow and had dirt and woodchips in it, the fuel filter was completely clogged, and the carb was filthy, but it would run with gas poured right down the throat.

It runs smooth now, I usually jump it with the truck. I put the deck back on, but need some help adjusting it, as it hangs lower in the front than the back, and is canted to one side.







 

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I think that I see something that might be playing a role in your deck being unlevel. The front tires appear not to be the original size and one looks like it is nearly flat, while the other looks like it is aired up fairly well. The look like they are about the same size that is on my 12.5 hp LT. Maybe someone else can chime in about the correct front tire size for this unit. HankII has a GT that is very similar to this. Check out the recent posts about the "Green Machine", they include pictures.
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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Hello, deck problem does appear for the sideways slant to be a little affected by the under inflated LF tire......Now as far as the deck being canted down in front, you will need to take the adjustment rods off and adjust them to make the rods longer. On the Green Machine, I had to adjust the rods to where the rod threads were completely inside the adjuster threads in order to get the deck front up level with the back. The thing to do is raise the front of the deck up with a wedge block of wood. I just tap the block in under the front roller on the front of the deck to raise it until the rod adjuster pegs will go into the deck hanger holes. You may have to play with it to get it just right. The thing to do is get it higher than the back so when the weight is bearing on the adjuster pegs, it will hang at the proper level.

The other sideways adjustment is the multi position adjuster on the back hanger and make it the same height in back as the opposite side hanger in back.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
the tires that were dry rotted and cracked were Carlisle 16x6.50x8's and I put 16x6.5x8's back on it.

I'll mess with the rods when I have some free time. working close to 80hrs a week kinda limits that :).
 

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the tires that were dry rotted and cracked were Carlisle 16x6.50x8's and I put 16x6.5x8's back on it.

I'll mess with the rods when I have some free time. working close to 80hrs a week kinda limits that :).
You should be ok then. It must have been the different tread patter/style that made them look smaller to me. Good luck and keep us posted on how everything goes.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well there were 'Turf Master's" on there, but I got a pair of "Turf Master II's" for $20 less. the only real diference is the treads are cutout in the middle.

I'll check both for 14 PSI, and also mess with the angles.

When looking at the front of the tractor, the bracket with multiple holes on the rear right appears to have been made with a medium sized hammer. wonder if it is out.
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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If you can:wwp: It sure helps to see these problems if you can shoot us some photos. I mean of the adjuster and the rods, stuff.
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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Ok, now the rods that are elbowed at the back and are twins to each other should have a (excuse the technical term) a trunnion adjuster for the other end of the rod to thread into. This is the adjustment for the deck to come up in front. It looks as though yours is already pretty much extended all the way now. You may need to go back to the rear and adjust the back downward. But it really looks like if you do that it will have the deck too low overall. One solution I can think of is to cut the rods in half. Either thread them yourself, or have them threaded to fit the size of the rod. Maybe a 1/2"x13 SAE thread. Get a threaded link nut for each rod, and a couple of jam nuts. The link nut is about 2" long, so you could then lengthen each rod by that much, giving you more adjustment length to get the front of the deck up. The only question I have is why the the adjusters are already so far out and yet the deck is nosed down. Something might be bent. It'd be hard to see in the photo's.


edit: Check that above! I went back and looked at your rods again. On the rights side, where the green bracket is, the rod right in front of the bracket, still has a lot of thread available to adjust the length longer....Take the rod off and if necessary put it in the vise to twist the trunnion outward on the threads. The idea is to lengthen the rod to bring the nose of the deck up.

If you take the rods off and match the adjustments up and try them back in place you'll see the deck begin to level out. In my 52" the rods were adjusted all the way into the threads of the trunnions, until half of the female threads were showing from the tip of the rod. If you match the lengths of the rod adjustments, it should help to keep the side to side level.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
the trunions are loose enough that when I removed the deck to put the mower into my S-10 they spun around. When sitting in the driver's seat, the left rod is threaded through with about 1/2" exposed according to my calipers. The right rod is threaded through with about 1.5" Exposed. Since you like pics :)

Left


Right
 

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Old Iron......Forever
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So is there a noticeable difference in the nose height from the one that is threaded in further? It should be up a little higher, but again, they both work in tandem, and the deck is a solid item, so there may not be enough flex for it. But with both equal length it should level out to what you want eventually, otherwise, something is either bent and not allowing for the ability to adjust the front up enough. If worse case happens, then consider the idea of extending the rod with the threads added in the cut off middle and adding link nuts. I got mine at Ace Hardware. They aren't real hard to set up if you have a good set of tap and die with the 1/2 die to cut the threads. Or whatever size is appropriate for those rods.

Ain't working on riding lawn mowers fun?!

Note: Link nuts work differently than turn buckles, in that you don't have a left hand thread and a right hand thread. You just put the standard right hand thread on both ends of the rod, then screw the jam nut on close to end of threading cut, and then the link nut. You will need to allow for enough adjustment outward. You will have about 1 1/2 " of total amount of adjustment using this method. Just screw the other piece of the rod into place after the jam nut on that side. Then Jam the nuts against the link nut shoulder on each side of it. get both rods the same length. Re-install the rods, and adjust them until you have the deck nose up enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It is. There is a 42" murray about 40 minutes from here that only needs a pressure wash and a set of belts, and the owner is asking $125. I literally have no money though so I am trying to talk them into trading it for a glass patio table, 2 chairs, and a 10" miter saw.

No response though.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well that levelled the deck nicely. I think I need to jack the front end up to get a little more weight help and get another thread or 2 out of the rods.

Next question.

at it's fully retracted position and with the blades engaged (mower off of course) The bottom of the deck is exactly 3" off the ground.

Is this a recommended/standard setup, or does it need to be higher.
 

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I don't know what the factory had for their original height in the #6 position or the highest setting. The 52" I was mentioning where I responded about the adjustment for yours, is about that also. To me it needs to come up another inch or 4". I don't know if that is realistic, since when in the high position the blade belt from the engine is angled up a little to get to the pulley grooves. That info about the correct highest setting in inches for decks, I really don't know for sure what it is. Glad we got you cutting level.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I cannot for the life of me get the blade nuts loose to remove and sharpen. Are they left threaded, or just on there really well.
 
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