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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everybody. I just bought an HT20 and I have alot to do to it, but my first concern is this. It starts right up and idles, but it shakes tremendously. If you give it more throttle it gets kinda violent. The last owner started attaching parts to the frame ect because the motor would vibrate them right off. Parts like the coil, condenser, even the voltage regulator is falling off from the vibrations. First thing I did was to get underneath to see if there was a broken or loose bolt but all looks tight. So im not sure what would cause it to be so bad. It stays running and you can use it, just not with much throttle unless you want to get shaked off from the tractor yourself. Any ideas?
Thanks
Jeremy
 

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Could the driveshaft be out of balance or something?
 

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my 1477 had the fly wheel come loose.and sounded really bad.tightened the nut on the wheel no more rattling.you should be able to see the drive shaft shake.if its out of whack.
 

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One of my HT-20s was shaking badly for a while .. then I heard some "Not so good noises" coming from the motor .. it has not been ran since .. I'm not looking forward to seeing what caused it .. I'm thinking I may need to rebuild the motor .. or replace it :fing20:
 

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Could be the Flywheel, drive shaft, or it's only hiting on one cylinder.
 

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I am voting a bent drive shaft or bad "U" joint.
 

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When I got the 1666 with the 17 Kohler the tin on the engine was beat to pieces. I initially thought the engine was toast but it ended up the driveshaft was totalled, yokes and slip joint. Ended up making a complete new one and now it's smoother that my 19.....Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I think Ive got it! I took of the tin and started her up. The drive shaft was all haywire. I wiggled the shaft and had a fair amount of play in the rear u-joint. Im willing to bet thats exactly what it is. Ill find out once I get a new one in. Ill let you allk now.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
 

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i'd say driveshaft ujoint...double check the shaft that the yoke mounts on the hydro...my 1886 had a bad vibe turned out to be the hydro shaft was worn funny
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Do you mean Tractor Supply Company? I checked thier website but it just said no longer available:(
 

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Do you mean Tractor Supply Company? I checked thier website but it just said no longer available:(
Any car parts store should have them.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
RRR! I cant beleive it but I ordered a u-joint that cost me $45 and today I strolled into the nearest Tractor supply and guess what was on the shelf for like $15!?!? Now I still have to wait another week(been one already) and I could have been done a week ago with an extra $30 in my pocket! Sure wish TSC website hadnt told me they dont carry them!!!! Shouldnt have doubted you mrcaptainbob!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well I finaly got my u-joint. Problem now is that it has been like this for so long, the shaft on the hydro and the yoke on the drive shaft are worn so that the keyway no longer fits! Im going to have to find a new shaft or find some way to repair it before all the vibration is gone. It is better, but still pretty bad. I ended up drilling a hole through the yolk and shaft and putting a bolt through, bu its not snug without the key. Anybody know how hard it is to change that shaft?
 

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Loctite makes a product , Loctite 660 http://tinyurl.com/2bor87z , I used it to repair the wallowed keyway in my mower deck between the output shaft and the drive sheave. Not only was the keyway bad but the bore on the sheave was bad as well from constantly moving around on the shaft. I had another gearbox but I figured I'd give it a try. I did it about 3 months agon and it's still holding.
I know you've already drilled it but I think the better solution IMHO would have been to drill and tap a 3/8 hole in the yoke on the side opposite the keyway. Clean up the key, shaft, yoke really welll and try the Loctite ....Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Crap! That sounds like it would have been a better idea. The shaft groove was worn so bad that the key was actually sitting on its side. I tried to mig the key into place first, but the shaft would not take the weld. Not sure why. I might actually be able to make a groove on the side of the shaft and on the yolk and get a new key and do your idea. Hmm Ill have to think about this one. thanks for the idea though!
 

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LOL, just thought of another way if it\s worn that bad. Take the stub shaft and get it cut one size bigger and use a stepped key.....Mike
 
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