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How to torque connecting rod

2831 Views 15 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Walt 2002
I have pulled the engine B&S 18 HP M#422707 1995 and pulled the crankcase cover and I can't see how you could get a torque wrench in there. Is there a way to do that? If so what is the torque setting?
Where can I find torque specs. and is there a repair manual?
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Not sure on your engine, but mine was tight too. Make sure you use thread lock, On one of mine I had to guess. I used the torque wrench on a free bolt to "feel" how much pressure I had to apply to get to the torque spec, then using a regular wrench, applied the same pressure, and maybe a tad more as I could feel the torque being applied.

Need the code of your engine to find the manual.
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I made a simple one when I rebuilt my HH120. Took a cheap socket wrench that was junk (wouldn't ratchet, was basically locked in place) and welded on a handle that was cut off of an identical one, also junk. Welded a nut on the end of the handle. From the center of the nut to the center of the 3/8" drive stud, it was 12". Then I hooked a fish scale to the nut on the end of the handle and pulled until the scale read the correct torque. I am sure this wasn't accurate but it worked for me and my engine is still running fine now.
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Where can I find torque specs. and is there a repair manual?
Is there a common torque spec based on the size and style of a bolt? Maybe a chart that engineers go by?
Is there a common torque spec based on the size and style of a bolt? Maybe a chart that engineers go by?
for that engine it's 190 in lbs on the c rod bolts

Each engine model has it's own number provided by the manufacturer.

briggs are here
http://web.ncf.ca/da229/smallengine/bspecs.pdf
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Borrow a torque wrench to be sure.. JMO

Thay are also pretty cheap @ HF
Borrow a torque wrench to be sure.. JMO

Thay are also pretty cheap @ HF
i find the 1/4 drive one is small enough to get into those blocks but not the 3/8
Not sure on your engine, but mine was tight too. Make sure you use thread lock, On one of mine I had to guess. I used the torque wrench on a free bolt to "feel" how much pressure I had to apply to get to the torque spec, then using a regular wrench, applied the same pressure, and maybe a tad more as I could feel the torque being applied.

Need the code of your engine to find the manual.

38 racing
M#422707
Type 121401
Code 9501205B

Charlie
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I noticed your model 422707, You have to pull the oil pan to torque the bolts properly.
I will take a look.
Thanks,Charlie
I made a simple one when I rebuilt my HH120. Took a cheap socket wrench that was junk (wouldn't ratchet, was basically locked in place) and welded on a handle that was cut off of an identical one, also junk. Welded a nut on the end of the handle. From the center of the nut to the center of the 3/8" drive stud, it was 12". Then I hooked a fish scale to the nut on the end of the handle and pulled until the scale read the correct torque. I am sure this wasn't accurate but it worked for me and my engine is still running fine now.
Doug thanks but I think I will go with torque wrench.
Charlie
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i find the 1/4 drive one is small enough to get into those blocks but not the 3/8
I picked up a inch pound 1/4 drive and I think it will work.
Thanks,Charlie
Is there a common torque spec based on the size and style of a bolt? Maybe a chart that engineers go by?
190in.pds.
"i find the 1/4 drive one is small enough to get into those blocks but not the 3/8"

I use a 3/8" Torque Wrench all time on these. Have to rotate the crank some to get to different side of rod. I am sure 1/4" would be better.

Walt Conner
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