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Discussion Starter #1
I was curious if my tractor has a valve that can be turned so that I can tow my tractor safely. It is pretty low on hydro fluid, and I don't want to burn anything up.. so I figured I would tow it over to grandpa's garage and begin my work before the snow hits. I need to pull it a full 200 +/- yards.. and don't wanna drive it while pumping expensive fluid out of the hard line leak.

The leak is somewhere around the starter? so here are a few questions if someone can answer them... it would be greatly appreciated


What is the best fluid and filter I can put on my tractor? how can I flush the exsisting fluid? I have a gift card for the JD dealership.. can I put some green branded fluid in my unit.. or is that sacreligious? any suggestion on the best type?

has anyone else experienced a leak in the starter area on their large frame?

Can I just weld the leak? I've never welded something like this.. but figured it could be done.

Will compression fittings work? any clue what size the lines are?

Where could I find a good used line(s) BHTS? do you have any? Are new lines available (will it require me to sell any of my body parts to afford them?)

Dad suggested unhooking the line up at the valve and just putting a plug in for a temp fix, and use the manual blade this winter. Any clue what type of thread the control valve has? It looks like it has a fitting that screws in like an AN type fitting, but then have a regular looking pipe type fitting screwed into it? Anyone have experience with these?

The Tractor supply guy told me to dump some hydraulic stop leak into the tractor.. this sounded like a good idea if I was fixing a radiator.. but stop leak in something like this sounds like a relatively bad idea and possibly damaging to the hydrostatic trans? Any opinions? I can't imagine spending 30 dollars on a jug of this stuff will work, but I also dont' wanna pull my motor to get to this line. The jug claims that it fixes seals, and restores the operation of hydralic components? hmmmm... dunno. Still sceptical...

Any and all opinions are greatly appreciated.. along with suggestions on how to "easily" pull the motor out. We have an overhead electric winch at grandpa's, although I doubt the Kohler weighs that much.

Thanks again,
Nicholas
 

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The kohler is a pain in the but to remove. Take off the tank and battery tray. The motor is not only heavy but awkward when lifting on each side. A hoist would be nice. Regarding pulling, I'm not sure on the Eaton 11. On my 18, I think I used a standard pipe fitting from Ace to step down the temp guage port.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I only use the front ports for the blade.. but we have a nearly new manual blade in the barn. I just hate giving up the hydraulic adjustment. Although.. I really don't wanna pull the motor unless I really have too.

Any suggestions on a filter for my tractor?
How about fluid suggestions?
I should probably skip the stop leak idea?

Thanks again,
Nick
 

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Nick, You can put the transmission in neutral and pull it without injury.I use utf in the hudyro and it works fine you can get it for around $40 a 5 gallon pail and yes the jd stuff will be pretty muchthe same just a higher cost. I have only been useing the oem filters on mine untill they gone i do have one or two left.The motor is heavy around 225lbs.Yes i have the lines.If you don't want to mess with it any time soon i would do as your dad said to both the front lines and use the manual blade.And if you don't really wont to mess with it at all i can come and take the nightmare off your hands.LOL
 

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I only use the front ports for the blade.. but we have a nearly new manual blade in the barn. I just hate giving up the hydraulic adjustment. Although.. I really don't wanna pull the motor unless I really have too.

Any suggestions on a filter for my tractor?
How about fluid suggestions?
I should probably skip the stop leak idea?

Thanks again,
Nick
:ditto:
 

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I'm not familiar with Bolens but a leak that far forward from the transmission is probably from the mid implement lift and should be accessible by removing the side panels.

If the tractor has a 2 speed rear end, put it in neutral for towing. It will not pump fluid unless the engine is running, nor will the back wheels turn, except in neutral.

I gather that a line is split, probably the short hose to the cylinder. Take it off and find a hydraulic shop to replace it (about $20). If it's the metal line, replace both with one hose long enough to go from here to there (about $40), and make sure it is well tied out of reach of spinning shafts and levers that move. The type of fittings will be self evident when it is removed. Don't even think about welding a hydraulic line! Replacement only!

Any fluid that meets the specs of the units (transmission) manufacturer can be used. I believe that JD also uses your tranny.

Do not dump any kind of stop leak into a hydraulic system!!!!! Hydraulic components depend on small clearances and the associated leakage for lubrication.

Pulling an engine that size by hand requires a low sloping forehead and a strong back. Use the hoist.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Do you need a HT23? I'm probably going to permanently adopt grandpa's HT20.. if so the 23 will have to find a new home so that I can invest the proper money that the 20 deserves. It has sentimental value... the 23 doesn't. I'd be interested in possibly doing some trading sometime in the near future.. or selling it outright.

His 20 is in great shape, but the decal on the muffler side has wrinkled and toasted some from the heat. The rubber foot pieces are worn but mostly intact. The fuel pump crapped out years ago so he added an inline pump. Other than that the tractor is great.

Pap is in his 80's and parked the tractor around 5 years ago after he had a problem with an oil leak? He claimed that the front seal was leaking. We think he overfilled the tractor with oil and that it probably "forced" the oil out. I'm not sure if it really needs a new seal or not. He was just getting to the point where he really couldn't do the maintenance on his own, but to proud for anyone to help him. It's been parked since. He pulled the sheet metal loose on the motor but that's where it ended. He flushed/changed the fluids every year and kept it in the garage it's whole life. It was purchased from Lashley's tractors in Senecaville back in the 70's. Lashleys is still in business to this day.. and grandpa, although his current memory isn't good... can still tell old storys fine. I think i've heard about how he traded his old large frame in on this model.. and how they cut him such a great deal. The salesman that sold it to him was the owners son.. and it was his first tractor sale. That son was the second generation.. and his son is now the owner/operator of the business and is the 3rd generation to run the business. So I wanna keep ahold of this one.


Nick
 

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Do you need a HT23? I'm probably going to permanently adopt grandpa's HT20.. if so the 23 will have to find a new home so that I can invest the proper money that the 20 deserves. It has sentimental value... the 23 doesn't. I'd be interested in possibly doing some trading sometime in the near future.. or selling it outright.

His 20 is in great shape, but the decal on the muffler side has wrinkled and toasted some from the heat. The rubber foot pieces are worn but mostly intact. The fuel pump crapped out years ago so he added an inline pump. Other than that the tractor is great.

Pap is in his 80's and parked the tractor around 5 years ago after he had a problem with an oil leak? He claimed that the front seal was leaking. We think he overfilled the tractor with oil and that it probably "forced" the oil out. I'm not sure if it really needs a new seal or not. He was just getting to the point where he really couldn't do the maintenance on his own, but to proud for anyone to help him. It's been parked since. He pulled the sheet metal loose on the motor but that's where it ended. He flushed/changed the fluids every year and kept it in the garage it's whole life. It was purchased from Lashley's tractors in Senecaville back in the 70's. Lashleys is still in business to this day.. and grandpa, although his current memory isn't good... can still tell old storys fine. I think i've heard about how he traded his old large frame in on this model.. and how they cut him such a great deal. The salesman that sold it to him was the owners son.. and it was his first tractor sale. That son was the second generation.. and his son is now the owner/operator of the business and is the 3rd generation to run the business. So I wanna keep ahold of this one.


Nick
Just let me know and we can go from there.You still have my number?Give me a call and we can talk.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm not in a huge hurry.. but once I get pap 100% convinced to let me have his (I'd love to restore it so that he can see it before something happens to him) then i'll be ready.

You'll be the first to know.

Nick
 

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That Kohler is heavy and awkward, but not too bad to pull if you do as recommended and remove the tank, battery and the mount that they sit on.
Then the hard part is usually getting the drive shaft yoke off to get the engine free.

As for a hoist, any sturdy ladder and a come-along will work:



And if a set of 1886 hard hyd. lines will work, here is a set for $19.99 buy it now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/BOLENS-HUSKY-18...545?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item334bbed871
 

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That Kohler is heavy and awkward, but not too bad to pull if you do as recommended and remove the tank, battery and the mount that they sit on.
Then the hard part is usually getting the drive shaft yoke off to get the engine free.

As for a hoist, any sturdy ladder and a come-along will work:



And if a set of 1886 hard hyd. lines will work, here is a set for $19.99 buy it now.
http://cgi.ebay.com/BOLENS-HUSKY-18...545?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item334bbed871
Now that is a great idea!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Never seen anyone use a ladder like that. We have a little giant ladder... man is it handy. Luckily we have an electric hoist... although I could pull the motor at my house with the chain hoist and ladder... hmmm.. now you've got me thinking.

Thanks for pointing out the hard lines. I'm not sure if they are the same.. but I can't imagine they would have changed them that much.

Thanks,
Nick

p.s. I had no idea how heavy the motor was... I thought I could just lift it out by hand at first... glad everyone chimed in. Now.. how hard is it to get the driveshaft and PTO assembly off for removal?
 

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Now.. how hard is it to get the driveshaft and PTO assembly off for removal?
I have a parts engine that has the U-joint cut in half due to the PO not being able to remove the drive shaft. The 18 I restored came off easy.....I guess it just depends on whether the shaft has been removed before and you luck of the draw.
 

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Nick,

Invite me down sometime, I'll give you a hand with the lines and bring a buyer for the tractor!!!!

Matt
 
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