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Discussion Starter #1
I have an Iseki TL 2101 FD with a Koyker 155 loader. The loader valve has 3 lines coming from the tractor, Power Beyond, Pressure, and Tank. I bought a used log splitter and hooked it up to the Pressure and Tank lines using quick connects, leaving the Power Beyond line hooked to the loader valve. It works but there are 3 problems. 1. The tractor 3 point hitch won't work with the splitter hooked up, (not a big deal for me). 2 The splitter has a two stage valve with auto return but it won't kick off when the cylinder fully retracts, it just sits and squeals until I pull it manually. It will kick off if I only extend the cylinder an inch or two and then push it to auto return. 3. The splitter squeals and won't split a really hard chunk of wood. I don't know if any of this is related to the way I have it hooked up but doing some research I wonder if I should hook the splitter pressure line to the tractor Power Beyond line instead of the pressure line, and leave the pressure line hooked to the loader?
Picture shows the Power Beyond line, Pressure line, and Tank line from the tractor. Initially I thought the problem might be bypassing inside the cylinder so I rebuilt it, but the packing looked fine and nothing changed. Cylinder was leaking a bit from the rod seal so it wasn't a total waste.
 

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Was there a problem with the valve on the splitter? I would have just disconnected the splitter lines at the pump and extended or replaced them with long enough lines to connect to the tractor. Then hooked to power and return on the tractor. Lock the tractor valve in pressure position and let the splitter do the work.

As far as the squealing noise you may have to resize the cylinder to match tractor output.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I'm not sure I understand. Maybe I didn't explain properly. I am using the splitter valve, the tractor Pressure and Tank,(return), lines are hooked to the Pressure and Tank lines on the splitter valve. I disconnect the lines from the Loader Valve and hook them to the splitter valve. (Except for the Power Beyond line, that stays hooked to the loader valve).
 

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Discussion Starter #4
3. The splitter squeals and won't split a really hard chunk of wood.
To avoid confusion, it only squeals with a really hard chunk, not all the time.
 

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To avoid confusion, it only squeals with a really hard chunk, not all the time.
My splitter squeals also when I get a tough piece of wood stuck that it won't split. That just means the pressure isn't enough to make the tough ones split. If I get one stuck I just take my sledge and knock it out and flip it and try again.

Put a pressure gauge on the pressure line and check to see if it's the recommended set for the tractor.
 

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Disconnect the power beyond lin and connect it to the return side of the splitter valve set. Install a new line from the power beyond port of the loader valve set to the pressure side of the log splitter valve set.

The squealing is the relief valve popping due to excess pressure.

The 3 PH doesn't work because you took it off line when you moved the pressure hose to the log splitter valve set.

This should work for you.

- > = Hose
- X = Quick connect


Pump > Loader valve set Power beyond X> Splitter valve set X> 3 PH > Tank
................................... Return > Tank

Shut off the engine before disconnecting the quick connects! Start the engine after the quick connects are re-connected.

The relief valve in the loader valve set governs the maximum pressure allowed down stream. It dumps the excess fluid directly back to tank.

The power beyond allows the continuation of fluid flow to other valve sets down stream. The last downstream valve set returns to tank to complete the primary circuit.

Tank > Pump > Valve set 1 > Valve set 2 > Valve set 3 > Tank
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's what I was thinking. I drew up this diagram before I saw your post to help me see it better. Did I get it right?
 

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You got it! :thThumbsU
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The squealing is the relief valve popping due to excess pressure.
Is that the relief valve in the splitter valve? If so I should adjust it higher?
 

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The relief valve is there to protect the pump. Adjust it higher at your own risk. I don't make that kind of adjustment without knowing the pump pressure rating. The danged things are too expensive if you have no choice but to buy from the dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What about the auto return not kicking off when the cylinder fully retracts? It squeals then as well. Don't know if it matters but I think the splitter has been sitting unused for a long time.
 

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the auto return is probably due to an internal issue with the valve, dirt, bad O-ring, or just plain stuck. I've never had one apart.

It squeals because the cylinder has bottomed out and the fluid has nowhere to go except over the relief.

Don't let it squeal for too long. That squeal means that the system is making heat in direct relation to the horsepower input.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I hooked it up properly to the power beyond circuit, no change in the splitter operation, though of course now my 3 point hitch and loader works with the splitter hooked up. If anything it seems like it might have a little less power, a bit less squealing when bottomed out. Then I put a pressure gauge in line with about 2 extra feet of hose, (which strangely completely eliminated the squealing), and I get a max pressure of 2,000 from the tractor. I can't find what my tractor is supposed to operate at but I'd guess that's near the normal range, and I haven't found any adjustment yet. (I won't try to adjust it unless I can find the proper specs).
With the 4 inch cylinder bore that only gives me about 12 tons of force which is clearly not enough. Even going to 2500 psi only gets me to about 15 tons. Using this calculator I could go to a 5 inch cylinder to get almost 20 tons at 2000 psi but I think the volume of the tractor pump will be too low and I'll get slow cycle times. So I'm thinking about converting it to a stand alone unit with it's own pump and a 240V 3hp electric motor, which I intended to do eventually anyway.
 

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I split hard maple with a 7.5 ton splitter. It all depends on your approach to splitting. I learned how with a 3.5 lb axe when I was a kid. An older gent took me under his wing and showed me a few tricks. The same tricks work with hydraulic splitters as well as axes powered by a 90 lb 12 year old.

If it won't split across the middle, slab it around the perimeter. I need slabs for the end piles anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah but I didn't get a splitter to use finesse, I want to blast right through stuff on the first try :tango_face_grin: Plus I want to add a 4 way wedge at some point so I need more power.
 

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With all the brute force you want to use figure on bending or braking something. Just make sure you are not in the way when it happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Then I put a pressure gauge in line with about 2 extra feet of hose, (which strangely completely eliminated the squealing), and I get a max pressure of 2,000 from the tractor.
Thinking about this I'm guessing that the extra hose, (and smaller diameter hose), smaller fittings, and shutoff valve inline with the gauge may have caused enough extra resistance that the pressure dropped just below the relief pressure setting of the splitter valve, and that stopped the squealing.
 

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Not sure what you mean, there are many 20 ton and higher splitters on the market.
If you want one of those go out and get one. Converting a lesser splitter to 20 tons would be like installing a 20 ton jack into a 12 ton press and expecting not to damage something.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Ah yes, I see what you mean. However this splitter was a DIY build by someone who must have been a professional welder/fabricator by the quality of work and seems over-built compared to other 20+ ton machines I've used. I'll measure the steel and compare it to available 20 ton and higher machines to double check.
 
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