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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So this might be a crazy question but honestly how should I mow? I mow at wot and adjust my speed with the lever. I also don't really use the brakes I just use the lever to control my speed. When I do step on the brake should the lever return to N , it doesn't.
 

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The brakes do not affect the SCL (Speed Control Lever) because some tractors are outfitted with Independent Brakes and if the SCL returned to neutral it would completely defeat the purpose of the ID Brakes. When I owned my 140 I hardly touched the brakes unless I was spinning, so I find no issue in the way you are mowing.
 

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Always run wide open throttle and use the hand speed control for all movement and stopping. The brakes are not meant for slowing or stopping.
They are for
steering assistance, (apply rt. brake when turning rt to turn sharper also helps turning on snow and ice when using a blade or blower)

traction control ( apply brake to spinning wheel to send power to the other side)

parking ( 2 pedals locked together and locked down )
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thank you for the info, I was operating the tractor correctly, good to know.
 

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Engine WOT when mowing.
Brakes assist with traction, turning, (and stopping).
Use the hydro lever for speed control as much as possible.

The hydro control lever SHOULD to return to neutral if both brake pedals
are applied FULLY.
 

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Should throttle be reduced when engaging or disengaging the blades, and THEN returned to full throttle? Previous owner showed me this, but I've always turned blades on/off without changing throttle (kept at full throttle always). Although I can see how that might cause extra wear & tear on the blade mechanisms.
 

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You want the throttle a little below full when engaging blades, don't slow it too much with the blades engaged when disengaging, just back it down a bit then quickly turn it off.

Let the engine idle for a bit before turning it off to help cool everything and not burn anything.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
not 100% understanding how to drive it I applied the brakes(both) (while moving forward) and the 420 didn't like that at all!!! It bucked and lerched something wicked.
 

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The brakes most certainly will stop the tractor if set correctly and unless defeated will bring the direction control lever to neutral. With two brakes-applying one all the way should bring the lever back 1/2 way only. Only when apply both brakes will the lever go the whole way.

330/316 is different with just one foot brake-it returns it the whole way.

If your first reaction on all other vehicles was to stomp on the brakes instictively to stop suddenly due to someone jumping in front of you or another reason-do you think JD would not have the brakes make it come to a stop.

Dual brakes are also meant to help with steering and to help if a wheel starts to spin-hence why it returns the direction lever only 1/2 way to neutral. Not a good idea to be going full forward and leave it that way while turning or stopping a turning wheel.

All tasks the tractor is doing-JD advises WOT. But engaging equipment on PTO's 1/3 throttle is how the majority of people do it. There is a metal clutch/brake that will wear so the less RPM's that it has to catch up to the less wear. Not that I have actually seen one wear. It has always been the bearing or the coil that is shot well before that.
 

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second what everyone says about the brakes, everything i have ever used you engage PTO's at full speed. its better for the engine and clutch. the engine can detonate if you put a heavy load on it at too low RPM and the clutch will get more uniform wear at full speed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mowing is all that I use the pto for, I don't mow tall grass either. I will engage the pto at lower rpm from now on and ease into wot. I haven't been using the brakes much at all.

thanks for clarifying how to drive my 420, "she" appreciates it.:fing32:
 

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4 different responses with 3 different answers on throttle level for PTO activation... full throttle, just below full throttle, and 1/3 throttle (either 1/3 below full, or 1/3 period - not sure which was meant there).

I can see the rationale from both sides. Keep at full throttle so you don't overwork the engine when activating blades. Or lower throttle so you don't spin the blade mechanisms too soon, too fast. I'm still not sure which is actually best, but I'm leaning toward WOT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
4 different responses with 3 different answers on throttle level for PTO activation... full throttle, just below full throttle, and 1/3 throttle (either 1/3 below full, or 1/3 period - not sure which was meant there).

I can see the rationale from both sides. Keep at full throttle so you don't overwork the engine when activating blades. Or lower throttle so you don't spin the blade mechanisms too soon, too fast. I'm still not sure which is actually best, but I'm leaning toward WOT.
as you wish...
 

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Like a maniac, with a beer in your hand and a reserve in the cup holder!!!! Lol
 

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Like a maniac, with a beer in your hand and a reserve in the cup holder!!!! Lol
LOL!! It is very difficult to drink while mowing, and no beer holder....
396, I knew I liked you. I used to have a '70 Chevelle convertible (308), boy do I miss it.

The 16 oz (Pint) aluminum cans fit very well in the cup holder, one in the tool box, and one in hand...no problem mowing!:trink40:
 

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I engage and disengage my 317's PTO at about half throttle and then mow wot.
Not all JD's Hydro Lever will move to neutral when brakes are applied. :fing32:
 

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Twin cylinder engines have more than enough power to handle engaging the PTO at low rpm. I seriously doubt any damage would come of it. I engage mine at low rpm and move to wot because it just seems harsh engaging them at wide open. But I don't think doing it at wot is wrong either. I just hate that harsh sound and jerk of doing it at wot.
 
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