Ive got a 94 848 and i dont see many others with them. What do you guys think of them, the good, the bad? It seems to be a decent tractor for me, but ive had bad luck with a few items, heh. Earlier i had to straighten and weld the mower pto idler and mounting plate. I had a stick stand up and get pulled into the belt/pulley. I may build a lower guard to protect the drive and pto belts. I know ive used it to mow some serious grass and brush, and havent had too many complaints. This is my first tractor so its been a learning experience understanding the drivetrains and replacing worn parts. I just rebuilt the twinII 18hp, so i hope the rest of the tractor will hold up to use it, heh.
Here's my LOWES '93 - MTD # 144Q848H052, Brigss # 422707, 18 hp trin II I/C. The carb has the idle mixture screw, but not the main jet mixture screw.
I have replaced the fuel filter, throttle control, fender mounted 1-7 drive detent plate, and chassis to deck drive belt (with an MTD one !). Also relubed the starter bearings, they were dry.
It has a three bag debris catcher and front wheel weights. PO bought it new, left it with the property last year. Note the compression pressure it develops, COLD. It came with zerks on the front axle spindle bearings.
I'm planning on checking the valve lash, since I have a bit of clicking that goes away totally once warmed up. Would have liked to have known it from new, but no basis. First experience with the flat twin. I think it has around 1000 hours.
Why did you rebuild yours, and what did you replace? Did you have to adjust the valve lash (grinding off the top of a new valve stem or lapping the existing valves into their seats a little ) ?
my tractor looks exactly like that, have you found useful videos on repairs? I am trying to replace belts, and want to work smarter, not harder,drive belt is slipping
I should get a couple better pics of mine. At the beginning of the season, I started the tractor and after about 30 seconds it started knocking on me. A rod end cap had started to come lose, and all the free play damaged the crank and cylinder bore, so i went ahead and rebuilt it since i didnt have much in the tractor, except for rebuilding the deck. I had to machine the rod journals on the crank .020" and bore the cylinders too. It needed the valve seats cleaned up and stem seal, so the valve lash did need adjusting afterwards. I would take clear pictures of the carb/governor linkages, internal and external before you take it all apart. I accidentally reinstalled the shaft backwards inside, so it couldnt control rpm properly, and it tried to over-rev. So i had to pull the engine back off to fix it.
Mine seems to have been abused a little over the years, so i keep finding little things to fix while trying to repair something else.
Previous owner just bolted a block on the speed selector to hold on speed, so i used some sheet metal and made my own detent/speed control plate. That steel wont brake like the plastic ones. http://www.mytractorforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=147597&d=1300057808
Call me a fool, stupid or whatever you like but I like these larger MTD's, but it seems that lately that Simplicity/AC/Homelite's have been taking over the fleet.
I just saw a J.C.Penny badge 990 on CL that got me thinking another MTD wouldn't be a bad thing !
Here's my lowe's MTD tractor. Had to do a little adjustment here and there (blade brakes, valves) and weld up a worn out hole on the front axle. Other than all that, I like it.
Ive been looking for a model 848. Just barely missed out a few times.
I really want a Lowe's badged tractor. Either the dark blue 93/94 or the silver 91.
I was hoping to find a silver 91 to match my avatar, which is a
Lowe's model 669.
Here is a picture of the 1995 834 Hydro with 50 inch deck that I got running and have been using this summer. I was going to sell it but I love the way it mows and think I will keep it as a friend for my 1995 849 14 speed shown in my avatar.
I have 91 848/46" cut badged Hechinger 18 hp B&S twin. It has about 1200 hours. I have to replace the frt pivot axle, it just worn out. I've rebuilt one spindle, replaced a deck spring, I had a stick go into the belt/pulley and do a number on the deck belt. My 848 has the very wide drive belts and replaced both 2 yrs ago. My 848 is in my garage pictures..Floydy..
I totally forgot they had a Hechinger version.
I know what you mean about the axle pivot, I just ordered one for my model 669. Mine is totally wore out also.
View attachment 494177
I have 848 with 18 hp B&S twin II that is starting to show it age. I'm going to put in a 20 hp B&S twin II, it has full pressure oil with filter. I also have to put a new pivot axle and frt & back support brackets. Now is a good time so it will be done for the winter plowing I have to do if it snows. The 18hp motor still runs but is starting to lose power. I'll rebuild it over the winter and keep it for a spare. I have two more tractors that have the same style B&S motor. One is a 18hp and the other is a 14hp
You will have to take some more pictures, tractor and bucket. I would like to see the bucket. Are you going to keep the bucket or sell it? Is the tractor a 848 or what? What size motor?
I pulled the B&S 18hp twin today and installed B&S 20hp twin with the quiet package. She runs nice. I still have to put the front pivot axle on, but I got the motor done.
Got the front axle and brackets installed yesterday. I ran into one problem. The NAPA oil filter is longer then the B&S filter and when I hooked up the steering rod to the spindle top the rod hits the filter when I turn right. I'll have to get a B&S filter today and the rod should clear the filter.
I fixed the front mounting bracket on the Hechinger 848. Used the running board from an old tractor, cut off a piece and used zip screws. Is good enough for a plow tractor. Front end is good and strong now.
I have a 1994 montgomery wards version of this, 18hp twin briggs and hydrostatic drive, I used it to mow my two acres before I bought a bigger mower, so now its just a backup. Its going to need a new battery, which is a bit of an oddball and costs 2-3 times what a standard GT battery cost. I was thinking of modifying the battery box to fit a standard (U-1) battery, has anyone here attempted this? It looks like the width is the only issue, which could be easily remedied a cutting wheel in my grinder, probably have to widen the box too (I have a welder). Before I cut anything I'm going to check underneath to make sure there's no clearance issues with anything else.
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