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Yesterday I opened the hood a little too enthusiastically and the attachment screws ripped out two chunks of plastic and it all fell off. Sleeping on it overnight and thinking about in Church this morning :praying: I came up with a repair solution. This it it.

Where it is supposed to attach


Two Tech scres with no washer behind the head was all that held it in place



Bit grubby with the lens off



But after a clean up you can see the damage



First I made a paper pattern of the corner



Then transferred it to a piece of aluminium



Popped riveted it in place



With some scrape sheet to distribute the load at the back



Bit of spray paint to blend it in a bit



Drilled some bigger holes and used bolts to hold it back together



And it fits



Better than before it broke

 

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Old Iron......Forever
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Very good repair job! I do that, too, using the aluminum sheet. In my case it has always been the lower skirt part of the grille that is broken, where the area around the hinge is attached to the pivot attachment rod, is located. In particular, the hinge point is usually broken out, so I add a piece of aluminum wrapped around the pivot rod and bolted through the plastic with a bolt and nut which is behind the pivot rod.

Here is a link to the thread about how I fixed the plastic skirt of the hood grille.

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=127192
 

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I just noticed that your muffler is directly in contact with the plastic grille, Is there a way for you to create a muffler shield from some of the aluminum you have?
 

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Nice repair. Those hoods are famous for breaking there.

"Thinking about in church" lol.............
 

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Great looking job. Just a suggestion, if it were me I would go back in and drill some small holes at the end of each crack line to keep it from runing anny further in your hood. Hard plastic is like glass and the cracks will get bigger with time and vibration unless you drill a hole to releave the stress at the end of it. You did A great looking job and I would hate to see you have more problems down the road.
 

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Really good repair. Looks to be what the factory should have done. I agree on stopping the cracks now, that would suck to ruin a great repair job.
 

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I would go back in and drill some small holes at the end of each crack line to keep it from runing anny further in your hood.
Great tip, that would have saved a lot of my front end.
 

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Big-O, ok, now you are getting irritating! I said you could go to the head of the class with your thread about the hitch mod for your Murray. But now you are showing off with all those good ideas!:thThumbsU
 

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Great pics on the "how to"!
 

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I like the tip about drilling end of cracks. I'm waiting to see how my fiber glass is going to hold up. I did about the same with the aluminum plates, then layered on 3 layers of fiber glass and resin.I should of taking more pic's. then bolted a l-shape piece from the bracket to the front of grill.Then added piece of expanded metal to the nose. The duct tape was removed and I glassed it from the under side. Feels pretty rigid My question is with the bonding, and a new lens.
 

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If you roughed everything up with say 100grt sandpaper and got everything really clean before doing the glass job it should last, as long as you didn't go overboard with the hardener and mix it to where it will crack with vibration. I have 20+ years repairing furniture and fiberglass, epoxies and bondo are some of the things we used to fill in big chunks that were missing. People would have a fit if they new they just bought a new table that costs $3,000.00 to $10,000 and it has a quart of bondo for one corner. But that is why the factories pay a good repair man that can hide any evidence that there was ever anything done so well. Prior to that I did light body work and turned wrenches for a living, so you could say I have a little experience with this kind of work. LOL. Both the lenses on my GT are jelly glass resin without the cloth and very little hardener so they can vibrate for ever and not crack.
 

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