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I have a LA 150 JD that oil leaks all over my PTO clutch. I think the crankshaft oil seal needs to be replaced. When you put the new oil seal into the engine how far do you put it into the engine? Even with the surrounding metal surface? 1/8 inch in?
 

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I changed the seal, on a B&S engine, on a pressure washer. The original seal was flush with the bottom of the engine case. By the time I got done tapping the new seal, and making sure it was straight, it was bottomed out against the flange inside the case. It’s probably 1/16 inch deeper than the original seal. I went ahead and put oil in the motor, and left it on the workbench for a week. It stayed dry, so I put everything back together. I have used it several times, and 3 months later it’s still dry.
 

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I don't remember if B&S has a spec on that or not as they want you to buy a special tool for installing the seal. I usually run from 1/16 - 1/8 inch being careful to "square" it. Being a little farther in than original would ensure the seal running on a good surface. Don't install to a lessor depth.

Walt Conner
 

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As a "No brainer" method that I use is to look at the original seal and aim for that depth. being off a little in either direction will not affect the function of the seal. I don't believe that there are any major seals that do not have a boss behind them. If there were, there would be many engines running with a new seal in their sump!
 

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Father Deerest
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Check for an oil passage hole, Kohlers have one on the crank seal and if the seal is set too deep you cut off the oil flow. Read the manual to see if one exists.
 

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Check for an oil passage hole, Kohlers have one on the crank seal and if the seal is set too deep you cut off the oil flow. Read the manual to see if one exists.
The LA150 has a B&S engine. The best advice is to seat to the same depth as the original seal and be mindful of the oil passage hole. Do not cover the hole. Also, lube the crank end and seal liberally and be very careful that you don't roll the lip on the new seal. Sometimes you need a tiny screwdriver to help the seal lip get over the bevel on the crank.
 

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I don't remember if B&S has a spec on that or not as they want you to buy a special tool for installing the seal. I usually run from 1/16 - 1/8 inch being careful to "square" it. Being a little farther in than original would ensure the seal running on a good surface. Don't install to a lessor depth.

Walt Conner
I could be wrong but I believe the special B&S tool is for guiding the seal lip over the square edge of the crank end. It's easy to roll the lip. I always lube the crank end and seal lip liberally with some assembly lube and then if I see the lip wanting to grab I just carefully help it past the crank edge with a small screwdriver. Haven't had one leak yet. :)
 

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I could be wrong but I believe the special B&S tool is for guiding the seal lip over the square edge of the crank end. It's easy to roll the lip. I always lube the crank end and seal lip liberally with some assembly lube and then if I see the lip wanting to grab I just carefully help it past the crank edge with a small screwdriver. Haven't had one leak yet. :)
Two different tools. One I referrenced sets the depth and squares the seal.
Walt Conner
 
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