I am putting a new drive belt on my GT235 and from what I can tell I have to remove the PTO clutch in order to get the belt on the pulley on the engine. I've got the bottom half of the clutch off but can not get the top half off. I don't know what I'm doing wrong - any suggestions? Thanks for your help - Pete
How Do I Remove GT235 PTO Clutch?
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usually on the vertical shaft motors the PTO comes off with one bolt. An impact wrench works quickest.
I got the bolt out with no problem and with a pulley puller I got the bottom half off of the clutch. I can not get the upper half off with the pulley puller. I've tried hitting it with a hammer to loosen it cranking on the pulley puller. I thought about heating it with a torch but I do not want to ruin the clutch plus I don't have a torch. - Pete
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4,696 Posts
You shouldn't have to remove the PTO clutch to change the belt. Leastways I changed mine without doing it.
Make sure you properly torque the bolt that goes through the PTO assembly into the crankshaft when you reassemble it. They are known to back out, and can gall the threads and damage the PTO if it works its way loose while the engine is running.
Make sure you properly torque the bolt that goes through the PTO assembly into the crankshaft when you reassemble it. They are known to back out, and can gall the threads and damage the PTO if it works its way loose while the engine is running.
So how do you change the belt without removing the clutch?
I have a GT235 and the belt is damaged and needs to be replaced. I've removed the bolt to the clutch but it won't budge. I've sprayed it with PB Blaster a few times and beat on it for a couple days and it's not moving.
Also, where does the spring tensioner connect for the drive belt? Mine fell off and luckily stayed on the deck. I can see where it attached to the 2 pulleys that move but where on the mower does it attach?
Thanks!
Mark
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379 Posts
You most definitely do not need to remove the PTO to change the belt. It would make it slightly easier, but with the problems your having getting it off it would be much easier to just slide it over.
As for the tensioner spring, it attaches to one of the holes in the frame. Look for the hole that has some paint worn away on the side pointing to the tensioner - that's where the spring goes. If I can get out there tonight, I'll take a pic and show you.
As for the tensioner spring, it attaches to one of the holes in the frame. Look for the hole that has some paint worn away on the side pointing to the tensioner - that's where the spring goes. If I can get out there tonight, I'll take a pic and show you.
Thanks, looking at it I didn't think of trying to slip the belt off without taking the clutch out...I'll try tonight. I guess it just seems there's too much stuff there but I'll give it a try.
I'll grab some lock tite too so I don't loose the bolt. I think I could run it without the bolt (don't worry I won't :bonk: )
I'll grab some lock tite too so I don't loose the bolt. I think I could run it without the bolt (don't worry I won't :bonk: )
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142 Posts
According to the technical manual, not necessary to remove the PTO, only the PTO cable. Moving the tensioner - part #20 is what you need to do. Let me know if you need further help.
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I have a couple questions about that clutch. In all due respect, I don't see how the belt will ever loosen up enough to slip over the clutch. It seems the clutch does need to come off. My tractor has the Kawasaki motor if that makes any differance. If I take the #20 part (bolt) out and use a 8" puller to get the cluch off, how tough will it be to put the clutch back on? Does the #20 bolt turn counterclockwise to loosen and should it be locktighted back on?
Thanks for all the help. You guys are great!
Thanks for all the help. You guys are great!
Re: How Do I Remove GT235 Drive Belt
Here's how to take off the main drive belt that connects the electric clutch on the front of the tractor to the pully under the fan at the back of the tractor. To remove it, using a visegrip, remove the tension spring to release the pressure on the belt. Referring to the Belt Drive and Idlers schematic at http://jdpc.deere.com, Loosen the 2 pulleys (#24) and the #18 Idler that the belt winds through. Remove the #24 pully closest to the front of the tractor so the #23 (Angle) is out of the way. The others you don't need to take off as long as you can get the belt off them.
Unplug the electrical connection to the clutch. Take off the steering arm at the front of the tractor being careful not to change the adjustment of it.
At the back of the tractor, pull the hydraulic reservoir out of the molding that holds it in place so you gain access to the cooling fan sitting on top of the belt. Don't disconnect it. This is very tight but if you reach in behind that reservoir, you can carefully get the loose belt off the pulley and move it up to just under the fan. A piece of rope looped through the belt helps to pull the belt back. Be careful not to damage the fan blades. The belt is now between the pully and the fan. With the belt off the pully, there will be enough slack to then remove the belt from the front pully (#1) and slip it down over the clutch. Once off the clutch, position the steering rod to take the belt off that. A camera may help you remember how everthing goes. Next finish working the belt up and over the cooling fan in the back and pull it out. Install the new belt in reverse order.
To gain more room to work around that cooling fan, it helps to loosen the 4 bolts holding the fenderdeck on. I didn't remove it, just prop it up with a wedge on top of the tire and it will let you work in the back a little easier.
Good luck. It wasn't that tough once you knew how to do it.
Here's how to take off the main drive belt that connects the electric clutch on the front of the tractor to the pully under the fan at the back of the tractor. To remove it, using a visegrip, remove the tension spring to release the pressure on the belt. Referring to the Belt Drive and Idlers schematic at http://jdpc.deere.com, Loosen the 2 pulleys (#24) and the #18 Idler that the belt winds through. Remove the #24 pully closest to the front of the tractor so the #23 (Angle) is out of the way. The others you don't need to take off as long as you can get the belt off them.
Unplug the electrical connection to the clutch. Take off the steering arm at the front of the tractor being careful not to change the adjustment of it.
At the back of the tractor, pull the hydraulic reservoir out of the molding that holds it in place so you gain access to the cooling fan sitting on top of the belt. Don't disconnect it. This is very tight but if you reach in behind that reservoir, you can carefully get the loose belt off the pulley and move it up to just under the fan. A piece of rope looped through the belt helps to pull the belt back. Be careful not to damage the fan blades. The belt is now between the pully and the fan. With the belt off the pully, there will be enough slack to then remove the belt from the front pully (#1) and slip it down over the clutch. Once off the clutch, position the steering rod to take the belt off that. A camera may help you remember how everthing goes. Next finish working the belt up and over the cooling fan in the back and pull it out. Install the new belt in reverse order.
To gain more room to work around that cooling fan, it helps to loosen the 4 bolts holding the fenderdeck on. I didn't remove it, just prop it up with a wedge on top of the tire and it will let you work in the back a little easier.
Good luck. It wasn't that tough once you knew how to do it.
Just a quick THANK YOU to Billjoe! After looking at the service manual to change the drive belt (remove fender, fuel tank, trans fan, etc) I was dreading it. I came to MTF for a better way. Following these instructions made things much easier, and quicker!
Thanks again, :thanku: :trink39:
Brad
Thanks again, :thanku: :trink39:
Brad
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4 Posts
Billjoe,
Another Big thanks from me. I followed your instructions all the way down to using rope to help guide the belt. I was able to replace belt without touching the rear fender or the PTO. I appreciate your info!
-Justin
Another Big thanks from me. I followed your instructions all the way down to using rope to help guide the belt. I was able to replace belt without touching the rear fender or the PTO. I appreciate your info!
-Justin
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