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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so my 316K has been leaking hydraulic fluid since I got it. The first thing I did was change the fluid and filter because I saw drips from the cooling pipe. I thought maybe loosening and retightening this during a fluid change might fix the problem. It didn't, I don't know if the problem is worse now than before or if I'm just more conscious of it but it is dripping pretty steadily.

Well, I got under there and cleaned a bunch of grime out and it seems the leak is coming from the very top hose above the hydraulic control valve. I can barely see the hose, let alone get a wrench on it's coupling. Am I going to have to take out all of the hydraulics lines to get at this thing? This old tractor stuff is getting less and less fun.
 

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The Magnificent
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20,952 Posts
Why don't you spend the $45 on the service manual on CD, ya cheap *** yankee?:ROF:ROF:trink40:

Seriously, the fender pan, as Stash mentioned, comes off really easily.
 

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Citizen of Earth
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15,291 Posts
Probably have much easier access by removing the seat pan which is held on by 4 maybe 6 bolts.
 

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Citizen of Earth
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Jeepers these guys type quicker than me :ROF :ROF
 

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The Magnificent
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But at least two of those three were available back then. My folks upgraded to two 12 inch black and white TVs when I joined the military. In fact it was only 9 months before I retired from the military that Al Gore finally invented the internet.
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #9
Why don't you spend the $45 on the service manual on CD, ya cheap *** yankee?:ROF:ROF:trink40:
What good is a manual to you southern boys? Don'tcha need to be able to READ? :ROF :ROF :trink39:

Seriously, thanks for the tip. I'll see about taking off the fender pan at my earliest convenience.
 

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Registered
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901 Posts
Naw, they's full of pictures!
LOL


Now ggsteve fixing these minor items is 50% of the fun of owning older tractors. Of course leaks are probably one of the most common and the least popular issues. Sounds like yours should not be bad since it is just a hose. If you are going to have a leak having it be a hose is pretty ideal compared to other potential leaks . Of course no one likes extra expense but the work itself if fun.

You still have the Craftsman so no big deal if the JD is down for a while right?
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #12
I got the fender pan off and here's what I see. Someone has cut away a piece of the frame to get at the hydraulic lines to try and fix it. The hose on top is the one that leaks:



Unfortunately, I see leaking out the back of the hydro. I assume there is nothing I can do about this?



I still think I must have screwed up the transmission fluid change. I didn't have noises and trouble shifting until I changed the fluid. Any thoughts on what I could have done wrong? Sight glass on the differential is just over half full right now. I used the stock JD filter.
 

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The Magnificent
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Did you use type F ATF? the leak around the rear shaft looks red.

That seal can be replaced.

So you are saying the top hose leaks right at the banjo fitting? Check the IPB on the JDparts site, but I believe there is a brass washer on either side of the fitting which may need to be replaced thus solving your leak there.

I can just picture some yahoo out there with a sawzall trying to get a better view of the hoses.
 

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JD Green all the way~!
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1,312 Posts
I had the exact same problem you did with a leak.

Turned out, one of the hard formed factory hydro lines had the flare crack and break on me inside the hex headed nut, so the line was free to move in and out of the nut and sleeve, and was leaking there.



The line that broke on me was the short one of the two that come out of the transmission here, the longer one, had a kink in the bottom of it, not big enough to restrict flow, but still worried me, so while I was in there, I replaced them both with new ones from Deere.

That long line where it goes into the upper part of the hydraulic valve was a S.O.B. to get to. I can see why somebody had cut your frame to get to it, cause from the under side, forget it, one of those you can see it, but cannot get to it unless you want to remove all the other fittings and lines out of the way.

The I remembered my dad giving me a tool rail, one metric, and one standard, they were mis ordered, and he received crows foot line sockets, when all he wanted were the regular crows foot sockets, so he gave me these, like 7 years ago. Thinking WTF am I EVER going to use these for, I went ahead and hung onto them...let me tell you, they cam in VERY handy, and worked awesome for this, and these lines on the tractor!

*notice the socket on the end of my ratchet!* BUY A SET, they are awesome!!!



~F~
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #16
That's interesting. You can't really see it in my photo, but the pipe on the left on my tractor has been replaced by a hose and that is what leaks. I think I should get the correct pipe from Deere. Does anyone have the part number?
 

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JD Green all the way~!
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1,312 Posts
For my 300, my two lines I installed are as follows:

AM35610 "tube" $21.50
AM35611 "tube" $26.50

~F~
 

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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #18
For my 300, my two lines I installed are as follows:

AM35610 "tube" $21.50
AM35611 "tube" $26.50

~F~
Thanks! I'm assuming the cheaper one is the shorter line from the left side? (that's what I need)
 

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JD Green all the way~!
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Don't know, just going off my receipt.

If you go to the dealer, he can bring up a exploded diagram of your tractor and you can point out the exact line you need from his computer. Chances are, they wont have it in stock, I had to wait 3 days for both of mine to come in, no big deal though, worth the wait.

I have seen the solid formed lines in sets, as well as one solid, and one rubber line in a set being sold on ebay. So either this is something Deere did do, or its a common part to replace with a flexible one.

You ever work with flair fittings before?

Once snug, or they make contact, all they need is a 1/4 turn past that and your done. :bannana:

~F~
 
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