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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,
My brother just gave me a horizontal twin, opposing cylinder engine from a Bolens. I intend to stuff it into my '75 444, because I do not like how the K321 shakes so much; and twins just run smoother. I have not seen it yet, but he claims it is an 18hp; does not know manufacturer or recall the model of tractor it came from. Is there an easy way to tell HP and manufacturer IF there are no tags on this motor? I did a quick search and it appears that Bolens used both Briggs and Kohler twins (uncertain on truthfulness of sources though), so I turn to people I feel know there stuff.

I will also post this in the Bolens forum.

Thanks
 

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I've owned a couple tractors with 18 hp briggs twins, and my 224 has the kohler 14hp, imo that kohler is built and runs worlds better than a briggs twin. And whats involved in making that swap?
 

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This is a 18hp Briggs out of a Bolens, I have tried several of the Case pump mounts on this and none of them fit, but I can't seem to find one it is missing. If this is the engine you have you may have to have a pump bracket made by a machine shop.


 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Eubee
Hydraulic conversion can be done but its gonna cost more than its worth.
Ha! Says who? I never said I was going to use only Case/Ingy parts. Also never said I even had to spend any money on it.
 

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Eubee
Hydraulic conversion can be done but its gonna cost more than its worth.
This might be the only time in history that FormerJDfan and I agree on anything but I'm in 100 percent harmony with him on this one.

Something tells me that you have no idea just what you are letting yourself in for.

As often said.. it's your tractor. Do with it as you please. My advice would be to forget the idea of changing the engine. Instead, make sure that the bolts that hold engine to the mounting plates are tight and replace the 4 rubber isolator pucks. Then turn your attention to getting your engine properly tuned.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
... Instead, make sure that the bolts that hold engine to the mounting plates are tight and replace the 4 rubber isolator pucks. Then turn your attention to getting your engine properly tuned.
Already have. New isolators this spring (yes, all the bolts are tight), tuned up at same time. I even took it to a local Kohler specialized small engine shop because I felt it still shook too much; they claim it runs fine, and that is normal. Don't get me wrong, it runs great, it just shakes too much for my taste.
 

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Already have. New isolators this spring (yes, all the bolts are tight), tuned up at same time. I even took it to a local Kohler specialized small engine shop because I felt it still shook too much; they claim it runs fine, and that is normal. Don't get me wrong, it runs great, it just shakes too much for my taste.
I will mention that from experience with rubber isolated H-D`s that too tight can actually increase vibration. NOT SAYING THIS IS THE CASE. But something to consider. When there is nothing "solid" between the nut and bolt it can be difficult to judge the proper degree of "tight"

Then I guess one would have to balance one`s tastes against ones fabricating skills and alloted budget. I understand the concept/challenge of making something "work", I think that`s great. But.. if you like everything else about your tractor, but dislike the vibration, it might be simpler /cheaper to sell and buy a factory built twin. Just a thought and no disrespect intended.
 

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I agree. Modified tractors are fine providing you intend to keep them. The problem comes when you try to sell a modified tractor. The minute you tell the world that you are offering your modified Case for sale, you scare off 95 percent of the potential buyers. Those people don't know whether you are a good mechanic or a poor one. They don't want to buy "your problem child". They are willing to take a chance on an older stock GT that they can obtain a parts manual for and and operator's manual for.

If something goes wrong with a highly modded tractor, how would they figure out what part to use? That's just one of several questions people would have about a modified tractor. The point here is simple. You are entering into dangerous territory once you begin to make major changes. Ask any dealer and they'll tell you the same thing. Essentially, it's financial suicide unless you get lucky and find that one buyer who is savvy enough mechanically to not care.
 

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Ha! Says who? I never said I was going to use only Case/Ingy parts. Also never said I even had to spend any money on it.
Considering you can't tell what engine you have by yourself, I highly doubt you have the skills or imagination to convert your tractor into such a machine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Considering you can't tell what engine you have by yourself, I highly doubt you have the skills or imagination to convert your tractor into such a machine.
Did you not read that I have not even seen the engine in person!? I do not even know if it is all there; I was asking for pointers on IDing a supposed unmarked engine. I can wrench, but I do not specialize in knowing that the particular length of chain on your workbench is a drive chain from an old International four-row planter. Don't care what the original use was anyway. I just want to know who made it and what model it is for factory replacement parts, if necessary.

I do not intend to sell this tractor; never did. I am not looking to build something just to turn around and sell it. I am building it to use myself.
 

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I agree. Modified tractors are fine providing you intend to keep them. The problem comes when you try to sell a modified tractor. The minute you tell the world that you are offering your modified Case for sale, you scare off 95 percent of the potential buyers. Those people don't know whether you are a good mechanic or a poor one. They don't want to buy "your problem child". They are willing to take a chance on an older stock GT that they can obtain a parts manual for and and operator's manual for.

If something goes wrong with a highly modded tractor, how would they figure out what part to use? That's just one of several questions people would have about a modified tractor. The point here is simple. You are entering into dangerous territory once you begin to make major changes. Ask any dealer and they'll tell you the same thing. Essentially, it's financial suicide unless you get lucky and find that one buyer who is savvy enough mechanically to not care.
I'm all for modifying to fit the need and Eubee might modify as he see's fit but I agree that if sold, modifications will very likely bring less money from far fewer buyers for the reasons you stated. :fing32:
 

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Wow, tough crowd in here. Its your tractor, do as you will. I personally wouldnt take out a perfectly good engine, but if was on its last leg, then thats a different story.

Have you tried looking to see if there is a bolens web site that may have that info?
 

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Did you not read that I have not even seen the engine in person!? I do not even know if it is all there; I was asking for pointers on IDing a supposed unmarked engine. I can wrench, but I do not specialize in knowing that the particular length of chain on your workbench is a drive chain from an old International four-row planter. Don't care what the original use was anyway. I just want to know who made it and what model it is for factory replacement parts, if necessary.

I do not intend to sell this tractor; never did. I am not looking to build something just to turn around and sell it. I am building it to use myself.
OK.... all of that is good and we have no real problem with it. Try to keep a couple things in mind here. First off, you have asked for advice and we are all responding to your request. We don't know what your background is nor the depth of your experience. All we are doing is using OUR experience to let you know where the snakes and alligators hide. So, try not to take it personal. Read the posts. Take what's good and just walk away from the stuff you can't use.
 
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