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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've been welding as a hobby for about a year and a half. I also recently acquired a 5518 about 5 months or so ago, and have been having fun repairing and making things for the tractor. I thought I would post up a how-to so you can see what to do, and more importantly, what NOT to do! Ha Ha!

I have these posted on another forum, but thought they'd be a little more appropriate here on a tractor forum.

I've learned a lot, but still have a good ways to go. Enough rambling, on with the picture show...



I start with a quick sketch for ideas.



I fab off the factory ROPS bolt with a tab made from 1 1/2" x 3/16" flat bar, and a piece of 1" x 1/8" square tube.



Ditto for the floorboard. I use a straight edge to measure off the tires for the support length.



Using scrap from a heavy duty shelving unit ( 1 1/2" x 1" x 1/8" angle) I start tacking the frame together.



Here is a sleeve I fabricated for the front mount made from rigid conduit. It will slide through the factory deck lift mount.



Like so...
 

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Shop Teacher & Proud Dad
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awesome. Keep us updated Great pics!

Makes me think 2x about spending $1500 for a cab.

It is the doors and glass that are my hangups
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
B pillars tacked in place





Front brace tacked at a height to allow opening of the hood.



Frame removed and cut in half to make it modular for easy set-up / tear-down.



Tabs fabricated to put it back together!



Frame flipped all different ways to final weld everything.



All mounts and exterior welds dressed up and rounded with a 40 grit flap wheel. Gussetts added where needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
awesome. Keep us updated Great pics!

Makes me think 2x about spending $1500 for a cab.

It is the doors and glass that are my hangups
Thanks!

My thoughts exactly on the $1500! I hope to have twice the cab for half the money. I'm going to try anyway! I should be about $200 north of a universal fit soft cab if all goes as planned.

More pics incoming...
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hinges with removeable pins plug-welded to B pillars, doors framed with 3/4" x 1/8" angle.







Lower panel / snowblower chute rotation rod support fabbed with 3/4" angle top and bottom, and 1 1/2" angle where the rod passes through. Hole sleeved with an electrical chase nipple, locknut, and plastic bushing.

I use a piece of 2" automotive painter's tape and a straight edge to start laying out where the sheet metal will touch the hood.



I use a piece of automotive masking paper to trace the sharpie line on the tape.



It's a bit time-consuming, but attention to detail now will save time later. Paper is easier to cut than metal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Pattern cut out and transferred to a piece of 18 gauge scrap steel from a de-comissioned UPS unit at work. Yes, I am a dumpster diver! I cut the hole for the hood 1/2" larger for the rubber edge gasket that will soon be there.



Shape cut out with a plasma cutter, and edges are dressed up with a 40 grit flap wheel.



Panel clamped to frame to check for fit. I also mark the back where I need to make the first bend.



I slide the panel into a homemade brake that I made completely out of scrap, and purposely overbend the bend so I can use a body hammer to remove some bend while once again clamped to the frame.



I repeat this process for the bottom bend as well. The panel has been on and off the tractor at least a dozen times to get to this point.



The panel comes off once again and then I weld some female DZUS tabs onto the frame that I bought from an ebay vendor. Front and back are welded, then the front is ground flush.

 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·


WHEW!!!!! Long post, I know!!!!! Ha Ha!

I am finally where I currently stopped tonight...

Panel clamped back in place and then marked for drilling of the male DZUS fasteners. Panel removed again, and drilled with a Uni-bit (step drill) for a tapered hole for the male fastener to lie flush.

Instead of riveting, I plan on plug welding the male half of the fastener. I'm only using DZUS fasteners on this one panel for quick access to the motor.

While everything is in place, I lay out for the lower windshield. Ok, this is finally a good stopping point. If all goes well, I'll have more to show later in the week...
 

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Looks Very well designed:thThumbsU
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Looks good - please keep posting as you complete the build.

What is the purpose of all of the holes that are drilled in the engine cover?
Thank you very much!

As far as the hood goes, one of the geniuses that owned it before me must have discovered how to use a hole saw. That will be fixed come spring complete with a fresh paintjob and new decals on the whole tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
There are lots of tips over on the John Deere forum of cabs scratch built rather than Curtis or John Deere cabs.

If you don't have a source for the wiper arm - this unit is not too expensive.

http://tmcin.com/modeltmc-0091101-1...th2-13shaftandcomplete14wiperarmandblade.aspx


http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=165577&highlight=cab+build

hth
I did a good bit of research on a cab before deciding to build one from scratch. I could not believe how many posts there are and how many youtube videos are out there. I guess that's probably what got my excited about building one in the first place. I know I read just about eveything out there for about 2 months, so I think I have already seen those threads! Ha ha!

I bought a complete assembly - wiper arm, linkage, and motor from a Toyota hatchback on ebay for less than $40 shipped. Once it shows up I need to weld a mount for that, then I can finally paint the frame.

2 steps forward, one step back. Ha Ha!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
More from today...

I use a scroll saw to cut out the window shape because I didn't want to warp the panel with the plasma. I put the panel back in place and plug weld the outer DZUS fasteners. I don't know if this will work or not, but what the heck - let's find out.



Yep! It worked! Sure beats drilling a bunch more holes and pop-riveting. Nice!
Below is a close-up of the tack. The left side has been brushed. I'm not even going to grind that.



Panel is removed, cleaned up, and shot with Krylon indoor/outdoor satin black enamel.



My wiper assy. from an old Toyota Tercel shows up today and I start hacking it to bits to make it do what I want it to. I bought it on ebay for less than $40 shipped. Works for me.



I make a tab from scrap 1 1/2" x 3/16" flatbar and tack it in place because I am sure I will have to move it.



All the excess bracketry removed with a bandsaw and grinder. Mucho better.



I also strip the brackets from the motor and then clamp it in place for testing. I tested the motor before going through all of this. Now I'm testing the sweep of the arm. This is full left (from dirver's seat).



And here is full right. As thought, I will need to move the tab to the right (from driver's seat) to center up the dead space. Looks like I will also need to cut some out of the arm and re-weld it to use a full 14" blade.



View from inside the cab. Yep, this is going to work! More to come when I have something new to show!!! :thThumbsU
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I make my own motor bracket using some scrap 1" x 1/8" flat bar. I bend it in the vise with a hammer.



Using the same scrap, I bend a 90 to attach to what's left of the factory mount.



After welding the bracket, I weld 1/4"-20 bolts to the inside of the angle for mounting studs.



Then I start cutting up the arm to make it fit the way I want it to. I have to tack the tiny piece in front of the spring first so that the spring doesn't lose tension.



All welded back together. After this photo, I still ended up trimming another inch from the end of the arm for a perfect fit.



I get some more goodies in the mail today...



The edge gasket for the hood (eBay)...



...and a pair of storm door handles/latches. (also eBay)

Slowly but surely I keep inching along. More to follow when I have something new to show. Until then...
 

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Nice I have been talking about building one of these for years. I would like to build it out of aluminum for weight reasons. Nice job,Thanks for the post it gives me some drive to get mine done. Can't see the $1500 for a used piece of junk from all the scavengers. And we all know who they are!!!!!!!


HAPPY NEW YEAR:trink39::trink39::trink39:
 
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