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Discussion Starter #1
This is an old "HOW TO" I wrote up years ago on a motorcycle forum I belong to. Thought MTF might like a home made fluid vac post.


FLUID VACUUM

I’ve been wanting a fluid vac. for my shop, seen one at NorthernTool for $120. A bit pricey in my opinion for something that I’ll not be using everyday. Decided to make one myself and it was under $50.

Tools required:

-Sharpie marker
-pencil
-tape measure
-1/2 inch drill
-8 inch vise (makes drilling and taping easier)
-1/4 inch NP tap (National Plumbers thread)
-7/16 inch drill bit per info. on tap (used smaller 27/64 bit with good results)
-hacksaw
-2 crescent wrenches
-channel lock pliers

Parts Needed: Found at LOWES

-(1) sheet sand paper 200 grit or whatever is on hand
-(1) 4 inch toilet bowl flange (with knock out in center)
-(1) 4 inch threaded adapter
-(1) 4 inch threaded plug
-4 inch dia. PVC pipe 20 inches in length (26" would make vac hold 1 gallon) 5 ft. length can be purchased at Lowes
-(1) 1/4 inch air valve (Campbell Housefield #IFA 114)
-3/8 inch outside dia. clear vinyl tubing 20 ft. length
-(1) tube 1 fl oz. Oatey pipe joint compound
-(1) 4 fl oz. Oatey PVC cement (smallest size available, requires very little)
-(1) Harbor Freight air vacuum pump (Central Pneumatic #3952)
-(1) 3 ft. HVAC hose (connects to fitting on front of air vac. pump) I had an old one laying around, you can purchase these at Graingers or at a HVAC supply house.
-(4) 3/8 X 1/4 inch tube to MIP elbo with insert (Watts A-128 PB969-P) Compression fitting
-(1) 1/4 FIP to MIP street elbo (Watts A-739 PB116) Compression fitting
-(1) 3/8 X 1/4 inch straight compression with insert or 1/4 inch threaded to barbed fitting



First take the 4 inch PVC pipe 20 inches long (suggest increasing it to 26 inches if you require one gallon capacity) dry fit toilet bowl flange and threaded adapter, pushing them all the way onto pipe. Take a pencil, mark around pipe where the edges of the flange and adapter meets the pipe. This will indicate how far above flange to drill bottom sight level fitting hole. Measure ½ inch above bottom pencil mark drill a 27/64 inch hole (suggest starting with a small drill bit and step up a couple of times to the 27/64 inch bit, go slow with the drill), thread the hole with the 1/4 inch NP tap.



Put pipe joint compound on the threads of a 3/8 X 1/4 inch tube to MIP elbo with insert and thread the fitting into the PVC pipe pointing toward the top of the pipe.



Now directly above the bottom fitting measure 15 ½ inches from center of first hole (NOTE: if you require a one gallon tank you’ll need to measure up 20 inches on the 26 inch long pipe) and drill a second hole 27/64 inch (tap threads and insert 3/8 fitting like the first one), this fitting needs to point down towards the bottom fitting. Now pull the 3/8 inch clear tubing in between the two fittings, remember the tube needs to slide into the fitting on each end for the compression ring to work.



After cutting tubing slide the nut onto tube with threaded end toward cut end of tube, push insert into the tubing and do the same for the other end. Now tighten the nut down (snug, do not over tighten) onto the fitting being sure to push tubing into the fitting all the way, do the same to the other end of the tubing, being sure that length of tubing makes sight tube straight. Take sand paper, rough up ends of PVC pipe between pencil lines drawn earlier and ends of pipe, also rough up insides of 4 inch adapter and 4 inch toilet flange. Put PVC glue on in side of flange and bottom end of PVC pipe (remember the level sight fitting is ½ inch above pencil line on the bottom end of the pipe you’ll want the toilet flange on this end!!) push the pipe and flange together with a small twist to seat the glue. Be sure to plumb the pipe and flange (make sure the flange is on a level surface and the pipe seats straight up and down before glue takes hold!!). Glue the 4 inch threaded adapter onto the top of the PVC pipe in the same manner as the flange. Drill another 27/64 inch hole / thread with 1/4 inch NP tap, 1 inch above top level sight fitting and to the side of it. This is the fluid syphoning fitting, put pipe joint compound onto 3/8 X 1/4 inch fitting and screw into threaded hole. Connect the remaining clear tubing to this fitting (this tube will be used to draw the liquid out of the container you want emptied). On the inside of the 4 inch PVC pipe screw on the 1/4 inch FIP to MIP street elbo, there is just enough threads of the syphoning fitting on the inside of the PVC pipe to screw on this street elbo fitting and point it to the bottom of the container.



This is done so that the in coming fluid does not splash into the vacuum opening. Now directly on the other side of the PVC pipe from the hole you just drilled, drill another 27/64 inch hole a ½ inch below the 4 inch PVC adapter where it meets the PVC pipe (this hole MUST be above the hole used to syphon fluids!! Tap this hole and screw in the 1/4 inch air valve, now screw in the 3/8 X 1/4 straight compression fitting using pipe joint compound on each.



Cut one end off the HVAC hose and insert it into the 3/8 inch straight fitting (Note: I had to use a razor blade to shave the outer covering of the hose down to fit inside the compression fitting) a 1/4 inch barbed fitting can be used here along with a hose clamp. Hook the other end of the HVAC hose to the air vacuum pump from Harbor Freight (read instructions supplied with vac. pump). Screw the threaded plug into the 4 inch adapter and you are ready to evacuate some fluids!!



I used a measuring cup to pour water into the container a cup at a time, then marked the fluid level with a sharpie marker (cups / gallon on one side and fluid ounces on the other side of the clear tubing). The graduation marks makes determining the amount of liquid removed from the container easier.



NOTE: Thinking about putting a drain valve at the bottom of the vac. container to drain it and only open the 4 inch plug when container requires cleaning??
While playing around with the new toy, found out that it was a PITA to keep unscrewing the 4 inch plug and pour the water out of the cylinder. I installed the drain valve I discussed in the first post.

Add the following to the parts list:

-(1) 1/4 inch air valve (Campbell Housefield #IFA 114) total of two now
-(1) 3/8 X 1/4 inch I.D. Hose barb to MIP adapter (Watts A-293 PB225)
-(1) 3/8 inch hose clamp
-24 inches of 3/8 inch I.D. clear tubing for drain line to disposal bucket




Remember to release the vacuum from the cylinder. Do this by leaving the vacuum hose line valve open before opening the drain so that the liquid is not bubbled and splashed all over the top of the cylinder, possibly entering the vac line.
 

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Old Stonebreaker
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3,398 Posts
Very good thinkin', Sandawg!! That would be handy for sucking oil out of small engines that have a poor drain setup on the crankcase. Friend has a Cub Cadet ZTR and no matter what you do the oil goes a little in the drain pan and the rest goes everywhere.
By the way, this ol' vet belatedly sends a tip o' the hat and a salute to you for veteran's day !!
Mike
 

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Premium Member
Joined
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4,014 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Very good thinkin', Sandawg!! That would be handy for sucking oil out of small engines that have a poor drain setup on the crankcase. Friend has a Cub Cadet ZTR and no matter what you do the oil goes a little in the drain pan and the rest goes everywhere.
By the way, this ol' vet belatedly sends a tip o' the hat and a salute to you for veteran's day !!
Mike
Thanks Mike!:fing32:

I'm here supporting our troops, they deserve all our well wishes! :thThumbsU
 
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