How would you go about it?
Vise grips and side cutters are two tools that I would use in that situation.
I might try that after I give the penetrating oil some time to, well, penetrate. Should I be buying a brass hammer? I've seen mrbeef using one in a few of his videos. Wondering if a brass hammer would be a good choice in this situation because it involves applying blunt force to the key - which is a pretty critical part.I learned this trick while trying to remove the flexplate bolts from my truck engine/tranny. There were up in a small space and tight as as all get-out. I had bent one allen-wrench and snapped another until I you-tubed this trick: Place an air chisel on the side of the bolt head and "chisel" for 10 seconds or so. No damage to the heads or bolts and the bolts all came right out.
So similar concept - Get chisel or other solid piece of metal that would allow you to tap on the key with a hammer. Effectively, you're just trying to vibrate the key loose, so many small taps - no large thunks. I would tap on the top of the key and the side of the key. I would not tap inward on the key because that might wedge it. Again - tapping for vibration - not hard enough to disfigure the key or cause other damage to the engine shaft.
Thanks - nice tip on carb cleaner first. I had previously wondered if the same principle as soldering copper pipe would work (heat first, then spray penetrating oil hoping that the thermal effect would draw it into the seized joint). It was a good idea until the realization that introducing a crazy-flammable compound to a flame-rich environment might not be so smart.I use carb cleaner and a penetrating oil together for rapid and deep penetration. Spray the carb cleaner in the cracks first and then spray the penetrate next. Give it a few minutes and then TAP the sides, both, of the key with a brass punch. Do not distort the key or you will truly have issues removing it. If needed you can apply a little heat to the shaft but not the coil plate. Good luck.